Geonovast

That's not the concern. The problem is the same as driving in 4wd on dry pavement. The driveshafts will still spin regardless of what the T-case is in. If there's even a slight difference in tire size between the front and rear axles, it will cause the driveshafts to want to spin at different speeds. When that happens, you're risking breakage. Unless you have a Full Time case or a manually actuated vac disconnect on the front axle you're risking breaking something unless you drop the front shaft.

If you get the shafts with the 297 joints I think your 30 should be fine. I know there's some decent steering upgrades. I believe ZJ steering is beefier and pretty much a direct swap.

If you get the shafts with the 297 joints I think your 30 should be fine. I know there's some decent steering upgrades. I believe ZJ steering is beefier and pretty much a direct swap.

Do the chrystler ECUs having any sort of battery in them so they remember adustments they've had to make to their settings? This problem with my 2.5 is not making any sense. Fuel pressure would explain it if it did it all the time, or just randomly. Since that's not the case, and it's only as soon as it warms up or after starting it back up when it's warm(gas stop, etc.), and it only does it for a few minutes. I have changed TPS, IAC(TB swap), cap, rotor, wires. Changing plugs and fuel filter tomorrow. The biggest thing that's sticking out in my mind is that the computer simply has to relearn the motor every time it warms up. I was thinking if the ECU has something like a CMOS battery in computers that I could replace and avoid finding a working ECU.

Do the chrystler ECUs having any sort of battery in them so they remember adustments they've had to make to their settings? This problem with my 2.5 is not making any sense. Fuel pressure would explain it if it did it all the time, or just randomly. Since that's not the case, and it's only as soon as it warms up or after starting it back up when it's warm(gas stop, etc.), and it only does it for a few minutes. I have changed TPS, IAC(TB swap), cap, rotor, wires. Changing plugs and fuel filter tomorrow. The biggest thing that's sticking out in my mind is that the computer simply has to relearn the motor every time it warms up. I was thinking if the ECU has something like a CMOS battery in computers that I could replace and avoid finding a working ECU.

No. Only if you're putting it on a trailer. Flatowing with the T-case in neutral is the same as driving in 4wd. There's no connection between wheels and transmission, but there is still a mechanical connection between the front and rear axles. You can put the tcase in neutral, but drop the front driveshaft as well. I just double checked with the 231 sitting on my workbench in the shed. Even in neutral, the yoke for the front D.S. and Output shaft spin together.

No. Only if you're putting it on a trailer. Flatowing with the T-case in neutral is the same as driving in 4wd. There's no connection between wheels and transmission, but there is still a mechanical connection between the front and rear axles. You can put the tcase in neutral, but drop the front driveshaft as well. I just double checked with the 231 sitting on my workbench in the shed. Even in neutral, the yoke for the front D.S. and Output shaft spin together.

Underhood light on my 88 was a single wire plug.

Underhood light on my 88 was a single wire plug.

Thanks for the manual, I'll keep it around but it doesn't do me any good. In 91, along with the 4.0 got upgraded to the Chrystler system and it went to MPFI, so it's completely different.

Thanks for the manual, I'll keep it around but it doesn't do me any good. In 91, along with the 4.0 got upgraded to the Chrystler system and it went to MPFI, so it's completely different.

You don't need to cut any springs. ZJ (first generation Grand Cherokee) has coil and link in the rear, and using those coils in the front of your Comanche should drop it about 2 inches. Just because it's a solid axle, doesn't mean you won't have alignment issues. It has a Y style steering setup, and lowering the truck will push the front of your tires away from each other, so you will have to do an alignment. Don't fret, they're easy, here's how to do it. http://www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html For your trans, I would leave the current trans in there, unless you're heart-set on having an overdrive. Then you're going to be looking for a 2wd AX-5. Shouldn't be too hard to come by.

You don't need to cut any springs. ZJ (first generation Grand Cherokee) has coil and link in the rear, and using those coils in the front of your Comanche should drop it about 2 inches. Just because it's a solid axle, doesn't mean you won't have alignment issues. It has a Y style steering setup, and lowering the truck will push the front of your tires away from each other, so you will have to do an alignment. Don't fret, they're easy, here's how to do it. http://www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html For your trans, I would leave the current trans in there, unless you're heart-set on having an overdrive. Then you're going to be looking for a 2wd AX-5. Shouldn't be too hard to come by.

ZJ rear coils should give you about a 2" drop with a 4cyl, probably a little more if you have the V6. I've seen it done, they do fit.

ZJ rear coils should give you about a 2" drop with a 4cyl, probably a little more if you have the V6. I've seen it done, they do fit.

I know my 2.5 is running weird...but I took it on a 1000 mile (round trip) trip this past weekend and I got weird mileage readings. All the way down (filling up 89, 90 or 91 octane) I got about 15-16 mpg. I blamed it on that it wasn't running right. On the way back, I filled up with 87, and it went up to 23 mpg. At half tank I filled up with 88, and it went back down to 16. Then halftank again put in 87 and it went back up to 22. Can't check my 4.0 since there's a leak halfway up the tank. What kind of mileage is everyone getting?

I know my 2.5 is running weird...but I took it on a 1000 mile (round trip) trip this past weekend and I got weird mileage readings. All the way down (filling up 89, 90 or 91 octane) I got about 15-16 mpg. I blamed it on that it wasn't running right. On the way back, I filled up with 87, and it went up to 23 mpg. At half tank I filled up with 88, and it went back down to 16. Then halftank again put in 87 and it went back up to 22. Can't check my 4.0 since there's a leak halfway up the tank. What kind of mileage is everyone getting?

Changed CPS, that wasn't it. Tested fuel pressure, stays about 30 psi when idling and revving up a bit. That seems a little low to me. What's it supposed to be at? I'm grabbin new plugs and a fuel filter on my way to work today.

Big enough. Also, the midplate layshaft bearing is not sealed, plenty of area in that for oil to run through. Also shown that the reverse idler would have to push pass the layshaft gears for 3rd and 2nd to fall off.

I've noticed that people who don't have children are usually the first to tell someone else how to raise theirs.

It doesn't need to. There's at least one oil passage on the bottom of the midplate.

I think that whole thing can be summed up as: "I don't have children so I'm going to tell you how to raise yours" I don't see anything wrong with that. Have you seen some of the kids shows that are on now? They show much worse than that.

So the plug that says "don't remove" doesn't do anything in particular? A Jeep practical joke maybe? :clapping: lol, would it surprise you? Nope, the idler gear sits on a shaft that's attached to the midplate. It cannot fall off. From what I could see with the case off, that plug does pretty much nothing. Must be thinking of another trans. Thanks The BA 10/5 is probably like that.

Nope, the idler gear sits on a shaft that's attached to the midplate. It cannot fall off. From what I could see with the case off, that plug does pretty much nothing.

Sure is. Unless it's a 4 speed, then it's an AX-4. There's no adjustment. You're going to need to open it up and see if the pin for the 1st/2nd collar thinger is broke. I'm guessing that's what happened.