Geonovast

If you're just looking for power, why not build yourself a stroker?

Truck's been sitting since Friday night. We've been driving around in the GF's Mom's car. That would be ideal... but I'm extremely limited on funds. That's just for the pan, right? The parts store has the upgraded gasket, and I couldn't remember if I needed RTV on that or not. That site mentions soap.. really?

Thanks aemsee, a lot of good info there. The torque was my biggest concern. I knew I had to have that cap torqued right, or the motor would likely blow on my on my way back. I do not know if the gasket's been replaced before. I'm hoping it's not the original gasket, but something tells me I'm not that lucky. I refuse to put a cork gasket on. I'll drive the hour to autozone if O'reilys doesn't have the rubber one. I did bring RTV with me, so that's good to go. And I know I have deepwell 7/16s, and 1/2 sockets with me. I'll have to check, don't think I brought the 3/8s. I'm also 99% sure I grabbed my 1/2 drive 3/4 socket. If I have to turn the motor to get the new seal in, I'll probably just crawl out and turn it around a couple times to relieve all the pressure before I go back under. I'm hoping it'll go right in.

Well luckily I'm not stuck on the side of the road, I'm at my girlfriend's mom's house. I bring a fair amount of tools with me when we make this trip. I wish I could pay a small shop to do it for me, but I really can't afford that. I am going to hose down the bottom of the truck before I start, I know it won't do much, but it's gotta help some.

Maybe it's on a wheel in a slider like the belt adjusters on our trucks :rotfl2:

I'm in the Camdenton, MO area and I seem to be forced to replace the RMS in the XJ before we go back on labor day. I've never done the procedure with the motor in the truck, and I have a few questions/concerns.. Anyone happen to know the main bearing cap bolthead size and torque spec? I don't know yet if I have access to a torque wrench. Are there any tricks to getting the top piece of the seal out other than loosening several of the bearing caps? If anyone's in the area, I could definitely use a hand too!

note: BE CAREFUL when you pull the springs off. They've got to be under some tension, and when you manage to clear the bolt out, it may snap, and it's not going to care what's in its way.

Definitely. I don't see any reason to not have them on.

:agree:

A leaf spring would not function and likely self-destruct without shackles. We're gonna need some pics.

Congrats :D :cheers: :cheers: I know what you're going through, just went through the same thing a few weeks ago. Induction didn't work and she ended up needing a C-section though, because she was pre-eclampsic. Let us know how it goes!

:banana:

If you're referring to the back end being up a little higher, they're supposed to be that way. That way, if you've got a couple hundred pounds of stuff in the bed, it won't get all squatty. Personally, I like the look of the rake.

Just because your question has been answered, the post shouldn't be deleted. Other people with a similar question may see it and not need a new post.

I had the VC off also to fix the blowby.. I was given a VC that supposedly had the PCV system completely rebuild. Well, the front one's either shot or the Crankcase pressure is so high that it's blowing through. I use the carquest brand filter, which from what I understand are manufactured by WIX. I stopped using FRAM after I found this site. There was a black, nameless filter on the XJ when I bought it. The top of the head looked beautiful when I had the VC off. The inside of the old cover was covered in gunk, but everything on the head was clean. The RMS is probably pretty old. I think it was just starting to go out when I did the oil change, since we were getting a little smoke off the exhaust before I started dinking around with it. If I can find the right tools down here I'll probably tackle the RMS, I'll have the whole week to do it.

There should be, but not specifically because it's an AX-4. 87-93ish they used an internal slave cylinder, which will just have the bleeder screw sticking out. Be careful, as with most bleeders, they like to break. It's possible that someone converted it to an external slave at some point though, which will have the bleeder on the slave itself. Bleeding an external is a bit different than an internal. With an external, you'd have to remove the slave, and using either the special tool or an old exhaust clamp and long bolts, completely compress the cylinder before bleeding to prevent air being trapped inside. Obviously nothing you can do about that with an internal.

When you click on the AX4 it says pic is of a T4, then you click on AX5 and it says it also the pic for AX4. :hmm: Hm... Yeah the AX-4 is linked wrong, and the AX-5 pic isn't quite right. While on the outside the AX-4 and AX-5 are identical, the insides are only mostly identical. AX-4 is obviously missing the 5th gear and the reverse slider is slightly different. Also, the AX-4/AX-5/G52 picture is of a G52. Granted, the front case and internals are very close to the AX-5, that's obviously the yoda rear case and bellhousing. Funny how the AX-15 link also goes to the G52 pic...

Welcome! Glad to see ya here! :thumbsup: :banana:

Well, we made it here ok, just took awhile. As for the gear oil, it had been suggested to me that I put a small amount in with the regular weight oil. I dumped in just shy of a quart, didn't seem to make any difference, so I didn't put any more in. But yeah, the entire hatch and bumper are covered in a film of oil. Something I somehow neglected to mention in the first post... my Oil Pressure is really high. After the first leg of the trip it jumped to 60-70 while running and maybe down to 35 at idle. This maybe has something to do with the RMS blowing? But if that's the case.. what caused the high pressure in the first place? After we get home, I'm probably going to yank the whole motor and re-seal the entire thing. Hopefully nothing inside is too screwed, although I have noticed a valvetrain tick at idle.

Well we're gonna trek out again here... gonna jump for Mt Pleasant to find some gear oil and stop leak stuff. If anyone's in the area and has any ideas or some way to help... please call my at 608-279-6977 I appreciate any help any of you can get me.

Right now I'm kinda stuck in the middle of nowhere. I'm at the intersection of 218/27 and 92 at a big BP Truck stop. XJ has been hemmoraging oil and I've not really been able to stop it. I've got a total of 247 miles and it's dumped probably 8 quarts. I changed the valve cover gasket before we left, but I've put some rags at the back of the head directly underneath the gasket and it's not picking up any oil. I can't seem to find the leak, I'm guessing it's either the head gasket or RMS. Is there anyone in the area that can lend a hand or have any ideas? Here's where I'm at. Apparently just outside of Ainsworth, IA

Your speedometer is mechanical, it's cable-driven. It may have broke or gotten disconnected at some point. It'll run to the back tailshaft of the transmission. Your transmission is electrical, and it's controlled by a computer. The plugs on the trans are for the TCU. As for the power comfort switch, we just had a good thread about that a little farther down the tech page viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18195 Hope it helps. :thumbsup:

Doing blocks in the back won't need shorter shocks. 4-5 inches just isn't feasible. At that point your axle is going to be hitting stuff, like, say, your motor. These trucks were designed to go the other way, after all. beaterjeep put ZJ rear coils on the front of his 2.5, and it dropped it about 2 inches IIRC. A 4.0 would be dropped a bit more. You will probably need a shorter track bar after a few inches, and honestly I've never even heard of one.