Geonovast

Yup, they did away with it in the XJs completely by about 92-93, and totally gone by 96. IIRC ALL YJs have the CAD.

They're not necessary though. You can rig a brake switch to the clutch and tie it in, but the older factory 5 speeds with cruise didn't have them. None that I've seen, anyway. Learned that the hard way the first time. Threw in the clutch at 60 MPH, luckily I reacted fast enough and tapped the brakes before it revved too high.

The cruise control stuff is the same between an auto and manual.

Not really. You have a couple options with the CAD. 1. Leave it stock and hope it functions. 2. Pop the actuator off, and lock the shift fork over so it's always engaged. 3. Get the proper seal and install a later model one piece shaft. 4. Get a manual locking kit, either vacuum or cable, to give you the option to control if it's engaged or not. Really the only advantage to doing this, is it gives you a 2wd low range option.

I disagree. I've driven Pat's 87 on 4.10s with IIRC 31s, and for street driving it felt like too much gear. I think 3.73 would have been nicer.

Find a set of at least 4.10 axles if you're doing 33"s. You will not be happy if you stick 33"s on the 3.07 gearing it has now.

External slaves aren't a matter of what vehicle-but what year. The internal slave was used from 87-mid93ish. Any AX-15 after 94 should be external. Let me emphasis should, as if I don't you'll go out and find a stock 95 with an internal. As far as the TJ trans, it'll work. YJs and TJs are essentially the same transmission, but the transfercase is clocked a couple degrees up more than the XJ/MJ ones, so there's a possibility of the T-case hitting the floor. It's not really a big deal, if it looks like it's gonna hit you can always give it a little more room with a little love from a hammer. Keep looking around for an AX-15. I wouldn't bother with ebay or anything, keep an eye out on CL, and post up a WTB thread in the classifieds here on CC. There's probably a good chance someone's in your area that can help you out with getting one. The last one I paid for was an external, came with a 231, and I paid 200.

You've basically got the idea, however, here's a quick list of what you'll need. D30 with gears matching your rear axle- most likely 3.07. Now would be a good time to hunt for some better gearing though. You'll need a 4wd AX-15. You can't just remove the tailshaft for a 4wd one, the output shafts themselves are different. Transfercase.. either a 231 or 242(if you want the full time 4wd/AWD) Shifter linkages and handle to go with the transfer case. Front driveshaft. Best to get it from a 4.0/5 speed, as the lengths vary with which motor and transmission it has. Shorter rear driveshaft. Your best bet is probably having your 2wd one cut down, as it's not the easiest to find a 4wd shaft. All the front suspension components are the same between 2wd and 4wd(coils/shocks/control arms/trackbar/steering/sway bar. You will need to use the 4wd brakes and calipers for the D30, however. Most year D30s will bolt right on no problems, but there are several generations of brakes. When you hunt down the 4wd AX-15, I strongly recommend trying to get one with an external slave setup. It'll be a little bit more time to convert from internal to external, but it will save you headaches down the road if you ever have problems with the clutch hydraulics. I don't think I forgot anything, it's basically a bolt-on procedure. The hole for the 4wd shifter is already there, just with a plate over it. Oh, and you won't need a new crossmember. They're all identical.

There's always the possibility I may be interested in acquiring it after I move down here to MO. :brows:

Get rid of the ZJ

I think what you need to ask yourself is... do you wanna chance it going to the crusher and that being on your conscience?

What operating system are you running? If you're installing 2000 or XP, you'll be able to boot from the CD ROM and do everything from there. It'll let you partition and whatnot.

:needpics:

Definitely If you end up wiping and reinstalling the operating system, partition your drive out a bit. I usually run something like this. I run Windows and all my programs on C:, and keep all my stuff on D:. That way, if something were to happen to windows, I can wipe C:, and not have to worry about needing to back anything up.

The factory aux fan, IIRC, was used in the AC models and towing package models. You should be able to drop one right in though, I think the plug might be there.. If you're going with a replacement, it would probably be a good idea to go dual electrics.

Took it for a test drive. Still leaks... but not nearly as bad. Should be managable on the trip home. On my little test drive, however, I noticed an MJ shoved behind an auto body shop. They were closed, and I'm sure they'll be closed tomorrow... but it looks like it's been there for awhile. If it's there next time I come down.... :clapping:

Anything but the Sportruck squiglies.

Got it done.. I hope. When installing the new seal, it started to shave a small amount off the side that seals to the block, but I think I got it patched ok with RTV. I didn't loose any material, just had a little flap. Started it up, had a strange tick for the first second, then it went away. Gonna take it for a test drive in a little bit after I grab some food. Many thanks to Lenard for coming out and giving me a hand. Also thanks all you guys for helpin' out on here. :cheers: I'd never used a clicker torque wrench before.... :drool: :drool:

Nope, that's the proper way to check. Essentially all 4.0s with a 5 speed came with the sucky 3.07s.

You still have to weld new perches. The distance between the perches is different, and it allows you to properly set pinion angle. You'll also still need to figure something out for shocks, as the existing XJ shock mounts won't work.

Here's a top view to give you a better idea of what's in my head.

Probably should be fine as long as you came make sure the pivot is strong enough. I seem to remember some redneck pic of an engine hoist in the back of a truck being used as a tow truck... Do you need it to have full 360 degree rotation, or would you be fine with only having, say, 3 positions for it to be in? Straight back, left and right.. etc. If you can make set points, then you could probably make a reinforcment bar going to the floor of the bed. Something like this. :dunno:

:redX:

How much would half price work out to? I'd really rather not get a class 2, but if it's cheap enough, it'll work long enough to haul an empty car dolly 540 miles until I can get a class 3.

Isn't installing 4 programs that rob system resources to get rid of one program that installed itself counter-productive? I run nothing and don't have problems with spyware. Boot into safe mode, run registry restore from a known good restore point, then search around for the .exe You can also go to Start Menu/run, and type in msconfig. You can then use the Services and Startup tabs to pick which processes run on startup.