Cooter

Look under any automatic 3speed TJ or auto 231 YJ...

LOL- that is a late Dodge D60, shafts are garbage, and it is a disconnect housing. Also, and extra 3K lb of truck and a heavy right foot in a no-go situation w/a V8 seem to help breakage. (Who would still hammer it after breaking the front axle?) :roll:

What I was trying to say was the TJ/YJ guys are buyin most of my XJ D44s, but they won't touch an MJ D44 even though they it's the same rear except for those horrible shock mounts that they have to hack off for a Wrangler...

Funny thing is, I have a harder time selling MJ D44s than I do the XJs. And this is to guys who are going to cut off all the brackets anyway. I prefer to sell the MJ D44 to MJers anyway.

My selling price is around $350 with drums, eBay is much higher...

Or me, when I have owned all of them except for the flatties and willys wagon. (If you conside the M715 a J-truck ;) )

But what does that leave? TJ? ZJ? CJ? M715??? Not too many Jeeps left that someone would think is "Junk" and not worth anything and yet still be mainsteam enough to be able to be found.

It's actually a pretty good axle, but I don't know anyone running one.

They won't let us bring torches into the local P&P. Even if they did, it is quicker for me to go in with the hacksaw- I kinda like it, I use one at work all day. (I'm an electrician)

From what I have seen, the A-pillar is the most vulnerable on the XJ/MJ. Protect them, and you'll be good to go. :cheers:

My JY info is the same as what you have seen, peter. Krazeeun, where are you located? I got the ASAF part, but a little hazy on the rest...

The Isuzu D44 doesn't have a drop out 3rd.

There is a point of diminishing returns here- I have done over 20 cages for CJs, XJs, Scramblers, ect, and I would say the added weight isn't worth it. Just go with your first setup, and you will be fine. If you use enough tubing to almost build a tube buggy, you would be better off just building one and hanging MJ sheetmetal off it like a prostocker.

I would try and see- I have seen them fit with stock height XJs.

Grind until you caqn see the seperation (looks like a crack) between the two metals, then hammer for all you're worth

I used to use a corless sawsall, but I found theat the ones with the hardened ubolts would eat up the blades. I just go with a hacksaw and a 5/16 wrench and a hammer. Only cut one ubolt on each side, and hammer the spring plate off. Hacksaw through the shocks, too- the oil will lube the blade ;) I usually can get one out and on the cart in 20 minutes or less.

I have done this swap many times, and it is a good one if you wheel your rig at all. Heat, cold, mud, dust, ect all cause the hydraulic throw out bearing to fail. You need the bellhousing, master and slave cylinders, the hose, throwout bearing clutch fork, and most importantly, the front bearing ratainer, as it is different between the two. It is all bolt on.

Sure could- I'm running an 8 3/4 from a B-body in my TJ, never any shaft issues for 2 1/2+ years now, and it's spooled with 36" swampers. (B-body is a little narrower, E-body is a little wider) 8 3/4 Swap

My MJ had 31s on it when I bought it. It looked so silly with the SOA that I swapped the Q78s off my TJ onto it. Keep in mind, however, that my wheelwells are cut, as well.

ABS was an option, but the only difference to the axle was the tone ring, you can swap an ABS axle in without experiencing any difficulties. From what I have seen in the JYs, '95/'96 was the approximate year for the 297x phase-in. If you buy the shafts new from 4WD Hardware, they will all come with the 297x u-joints.

..but you will still have the weenie 260 u-joints.

I Dremeled mine and used a factory driver's side seal, but there are rumors of other seals that will fit without machining. Either way you still have to pull both axles and the carrier to install the seal. Use TJ, ABS equipped XJ, or non NP249 ZJ shafts for the big u-joints.

It also doesn't have as low of a first gear. (TH400-2.48 TF999-2.74 AW4-2.80) I would swap in a TF999, or the AW4, the wiring isn't that big of a deal, and you will still need a provision for the CPS with the TH400. Also, make sure the t-case has a driver's side drop, the TH400 only came with a Q-trac or a Spicer 20 in factory applications.

...or go with a Northstar :twisted:

The problem is, the tools don't do the work- you do. The amount of time, space and effort it would take to jig everything up just to swap imperfect parts for a rig that isn't all that rare or expensive just isn't worth it.