Oyaji

. I was a tech judge one year for Formula SAE. It was a good program; that year 113 universities from around the world sent teams. I am glad to hear it is still going on, good luck with your entry. I am sure y'all are documenting your progress - maybe add a build thread here if you have the time? . Yeah, for fuel savings, you need to aim a bit higher than an Iron Duke MJ - but good luck finding a vehicle to satisfy both economy concerns and a suitable back seat! :D.

. Ummm - that's premature ebullition! He isn't done until he has bought the relay and installed it. . 14 to go, and counting... :popcorn: .

I don't think I would place complete faith in Mapquest (or any other map, whether on the Internet or otherwise). . Just sayin'...

A bit taller, too - 235 - 215 = 20mm, or about 8 tenths of an inch, times the 75% profile = 6 tenths of an inch taller. . edit: whoops! for the tire diameter, you have to count the side wall twice - that makes 6 tenths doubled for 1.2" taller.

. And you would be correct. States may make more stringent requirements, but they cannot contradict federal law. . 'Bout 150 years ago we had a war that ultimately decided once and for all that states' rights were subordinate to the federal government. When I was a kid they still taught that in history class - you'd think it still would be taught nowadays, right? :doh:

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. Close. . But really, the worst part isn't that someone voted for her - it's that she actually got elected and is making laws that her constituency must obey.

:agree:. . Ayup - Eagle is dead on. . To carry it further, every set of lights sold carries instructions that ship with them, which tell you the requirements (at least the basics) of how the lights must be wired to operate legally. If you want to see whence the requirements come, go read FMVSS 49 CFR Part 108 (FMVSS = Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards, and CFR = Code of Federal Regulations), which mandates lighting requirements for all motor vehicles sold in the USA. Since the requirements are FEDERAL, they apply to all 50 states - of which Virginia is one. Federal law trumps state law, so the only difference would be if Virginia ADDED additional requirements.

i did, looks closed off like a tube bumper or somethin unless the plastic dirt skirt is in the way :dunno: can't see a way to take that bumper off either :( and if lights are aimed right they can be used for anything with the right modification, just throwin my 2 cent out there :D Redwolf No, they can't. Because the lenses are different, and the reflectors are different, so the lights throw light in a completely different pattern. Aiming driving lights low enough to not blind on-coming drivers would make them useless as driving lights, and because the beam is very narrow they would also be useless as fog lights. And the fact remains, however you aim them they ARE driving lights, and the law for driving lights is that they can operate ONLY with the high beams ... while the law for fog lights is that they canNOT operate with the high beams. Skidoo's excellent wiring diagram is NOT correct for driving lights. It can be modified to work for driving lights, but as drawn it is WRONG if your lights are driving lights. And, by the way, just putting a yellow lens on a driving light doesn't make it a fog light. technically that's how it should be by law but the inspectors around here are so stupid i could slap neon green show lights on my bumper, wire it in and tell the inspector they're fog lights and they'll believe it, Redwolf . FYI - I have been pulled over twice in Florida and once in Alabama by highway patrolmen who first raged at me for my lights, then ran me through a test on the side of the road to see if they were properly wired according to the law. As a matter of fact, they were not - but I got away with it all 3 times by switching the lights using both hands (one to switch the hi-lo beams, the other on the driving lights switch) manually on their command. I am not sure they actually knew the law exactly, but they were sure some kinda mad at me (though they did let me go without a ticket all 3 times). . Moral of the story - don't be a dumbass (like I was when I was young) and use annoyingly and hazardously bright lights in town, and make sure to wire up your lights to be legal.

. I think it is more likely that the hammer-on weights in this case were made for steel rims, and so are a problem getting over the thicker edge of an aluminum rim. Those really gouge the aluminum badly, and since the retaining clip is spread much wider to even get on the thick aluminum rim, they have a tendency to fly off sooner or later. Best keep an eye on them in case they let go. . If I remember correctly, there are hammer-on weights available with the proper clip spread for aluminum rims, but I shy away even from them. I used to do all my own tire work, having access to a shop with lift racks, air-driven tire mounting machine, and dynamic balancer. (I'd still do it now, but my health no longer permits it...). . Maybe if you just have them tape on the weights a quarter inch farther inboard you would be okay with your turbine wheels? I never had any problem with tape-on weights getting knocked off the stock aluminum wheels from 1992 (I forget the name of the style, but they are 5-spoke with the crappy 2-piece lug nuts).

. Yessir, I agree with almost all of what you posted, and wish I could agree with it all. But I think you are off the mark on 2 of your points: that of mis-information about what happened on 9-11-2001, and whether we really can still freely discuss issues like this in America. . Regarding mis-information, what I mentioned above in my first post in this thread was not something I read - it was from a first-hand experience. It was why when on live television I saw the second plane impact and both the towers fall a short time later, I was subject to terrible disbelief from the moment of the event onwards. All information I acquired and all my deductions since that day have pointed me in a direction different from what our government and the media have led us to believe. . The role of the mainstream media has changed from public watchdog to propaganda arm of the government. Here is an example - this guy's ranting still beggars the imagination: .. With regard to freedom of speech and unlawful search and seizure, our rights are being eroded daily. For examples you need look no further than the inroads of the NSA and the secret prisons like "Gitmo", where mere suspicion can cause a person to vanish forever without trial, by executive order, without oversight nor accountability. . And think on it: all this has come to pass because of public outrage and willingness to trade freedom for "security", over what ultimately was nothing more than a spectacular act of vandalism and murder committed (at least ostensibly) by individuals, not nations. . And who profited? Certainly not the nations blamed. Rather defense contractors and the new secret police ("Homeland Security" and the industries developed to support them) cashed in big time. There are other profiteers as well (most particularly the Federal Reserve Bank, the entire banking system, and the American economy, which without military support of the petro-dollar may well have collapsed... in fact it still may, regardless), and I would be happy to discuss them. I think right here in this thread is the most appropriate place to do so, and will be more than happy to take it up with any interested reader. I think it would be the very best way to honor the victims of 9/11. . Finally, it is my most fervent hope that you are correct in your point that the truth all comes out, eventually, and that those truly to blame are held accountable within their own lifetimes.

I don't like hammer-on tire balancing weights for aluminum wheels because they dig in and really ruin the looks and finish - they can leave really nasty gouges in aluminum, but work dandy with steel wheels.

:hijack: . .Any hint as to how I can get a dirt-cheap or free trial copy of SolidWorks? I have heard nothing but good about it. PM me if you have any help to offer please.

Driving lights cast a narrow long-distance beam (farther than high-beams do) and are quite different from fog lights, which cast a wide, shallow, flat beam (good for shining under fog to reduce glare). For that reason, FMVSS law requires driving lights to be wired to come on only with the high beams. For the driving I generally do, I prefer driving lights so I can see deer well off in the distance, so I use driving lights (YMMV). . With regard to mounting - I guess the hardest bit would be the wiring, so removing the bumper would give you additional space to work. I am lazy that way and will accept a certain amount of skinned knuckles to get the job done the harder way, just getting by with less room to work if I think it is faster.... but man! why don't you stick your nose under the bumper and figure it out? :D

. He didn't ask if the engine was seized - he asked if the starter turns it over. Lots of other things could be wrong besides your engine being seized if it doesn't turn over when you twist the key. . If you want to fix your problem economically, you are going to have to troubleshoot it first. (I suppose you could just buy parts and swap them until you eventually fixed the problem, but most folks aren't sufficiently lucky and/or wealthy to rely on that approach.) . Why don't you get an assistant to turn the key for you while you check for spark at the plugs? Alternately, you can make it a 1-man job if you make or buy a remote starter switch. Clip on the the small terminal on your starter and to the + terminal of your battery (or any other convenient source of voltage), make sure to select neutral or park and lock your parking brake, turn the key to the "ignition - on" position, then spin the engine with your remote switch while you check for spark.

:agree:.. My brother drives a Honda CRX, a shortened 2-seat version of the already small Civic. He is astounded that when he makes a full-lock U-turn, my (bone stock) 4-door Cherokee can follow him every time, with only a slightly and hardly-noticeable greater turn radius!

:agree: Being able to see at night is a good thing... but only up to the point that it interferes with other drivers being able to see, too. Out in the boondocks (like where I live), this most often a non-issue, though.

. It must be nice and comforting to believe that your government would never lie to you. Considering history, you would be dead wrong, of course - but that belief must still be very nice and comforting. . Further, failure to ask questions is the greatest disservice to the victims that we here honor.

Regarding your task of cleaning all the sand and decomposed granite chips out of your air conditioning condenser, there is maybe a simple tool available to help make that job less tedious. I remember there being a "condenser comb" offered for sale (I don't know who sells them - I suppose you could ask around though - start at Lowe's?). It's primary intended use is to straighten bent cooling fins, but I am guessing it would be worth a try to help dig out all the little grains jammed in there between the fins, too. . Worth a try? That little gizmo has got to be cheap enough to warrant a trial, right?.

Sorry the previous sentence is so long, but you asked for it. :P You're right...I did. So, I thank you for your interest and investment in this thread and my problem. Frustration has a way of affecting me in a cynical way. Sorry if it sounded like I was mocking you but, for what it's worth, your knowledge and "figuring" is, admittedly, over my head. No hard feelings. That said, I found something "physical" on the Jeep that could explain part my cooling problem. As I was taking everything apart to replace the radiator I had to unbolt the A/C condenser to separate it from the radiator. This has given me pause about replacing the radiator at all. If I'm right, I may not need to replace the radiator at all. Previously I have thought I could just spray off the condenser and backflush it from the engine side as well...and it would be all good. There was no mud, no grass, no cow manure (I got it off a farm, yknow), no mouse nests, bees etc etc. Well....out here in CA, we don't use salt on the roads in the winter, part of the reason we don't have rusted vehicles. It gets snowy and slippery in the mountains, but the rest of the state might see an inch of snow all winter, if that. Wisely IMHO, CalTrans, DOT, whatever, uses what we got...either sand or DG (Decomposed Granite) which is a kind of rough angular sand that provides traction and leaves no chemical residue. What with me being a bonafide Senior Citizen and sight-challenged as well as crippled up with what seems to be the onset of arthritis, I've never really gotten "up close and personal" with my A/C condenser. I did today!! When I did, I found that my condenser is FULL of DG. Again, not meaning to be a D**K, my condenser is about 75-80% clogged with freakin' MF'n DG. Every single slot has at least 4-5 grains of this stuff, some slots are completely clogged. Each "grain" is about 1/32". It seems each slot is double folded for maximum effectiveness and the stinkin' sand is even stuck in between the folds. So, tomorrow I'm going put off the radiator job and clean the crap out of my condenser, with water, soap, compressed air as well as 409 and Purple Power until it's clean as a whistle and I can see through it...right now, I can't see the light of a 3D Mag light through it. Then I'm going to fill it with water and go for a 3rd gear drive. Who knows, maybe I can get my $$ back for the radiator. It also may explain why the solution to this has been so elusive. Thanks again. . Apology freely given, freely accepted. No hard feelings at all - I want to see you get this sorted out. For my part, I guess since I have worked all my life with the math of figuring out this sort of stuff that I am used to solving a lot of it in my head, and when I write it down maybe I take too many shortcuts for it to be easily followed. If you or others have the interest, I'll break down the steps and the logic more finely and detailed so that it is easier to follow... but if you just want the solution, I regret to say that it isn't as simple as that until the problem is nailed down. We are still in the "detective" stage, and so I am still trying to work out the logic of possible faults and solutions for them. You must have heard the carpenter's saying, "Measure twice, cut once - but measure once, cut twice", right? Wherever possible I want to make thinking substitute for expenditure of effort and money - and you can bet that I will always shoot for offering solutions that start with the cheapest possible first. . To that end, one thing has been bothering me about the top gear in both 5-speed and AW4 transmissions - are they not both overdrives around 0.80:1 ratio? That begs the question: why then do they use different final drives? The only thing that has been coming to my mind for weeks now is that it must have to do with the torque converter and the shifting programming. I know that for automatic transmissions, the designing engineers do their best to make them as idiot-proof as they can. Since I lack design experience for them, I have to guess that automatic transmissions must be made to accommodate drivers who haven't got the sense (different from stick drivers such as yourself) to downshift under high load conditions, and that the torque converter must be part be part of the solution for said accommodation. But with final drive so very different from the manual transmission's final drive ratio, I find myself guessing that the engine management programming (for both fuel injection and ignition advance curves) could be different depending on transmission choice - but find myself expecting that the automatic transmission logic routine more likely is responsible for proper running conditions. Can any reader verify the accuracy of these guesses and conclusions? And is there anyone who knows definitively not only the torque converter lockup conditions, but also how the logic is programmed and implemented? . In any case, there is no denying that the AW4 is supposed to be paired with 3.55 final drive, and that the stock 215/75 R15 tire diameter is 27" (though I have read here that some Comanches shipped with slightly bigger tires - 225/75 R15s?). I also know that the digital engine management system (fuel injection and ignition advance maps) will accommodate a certain amount of fudging away from the stock setup... but I suspect you have gone too far outside the load the ECU's programming and engine can deliver within the stock cooling capacity. . If you can't come up with the speedometer correction gear for AW4 with 3.07 final drive and 31" tires (Hornbrod mentioned the part number above in his post) in order to run an overheating test at a correct speed of 70 mph in 3rd gear (being sure to note the RPM), is there any chance you have on hand or could borrow some tires smaller than stock already mounted on rims that would fit your truck for a test run with your original speedometer gear? Provided the backspacing is adequate and the lug pattern is 5 on 4.5", for the short-term purposes of a one-run test you or a friend might have tires and wheels on a second car that would do (I don't want to cost you any money, and as little effort as possible - that is the point here - I think you have spent way too much already, all to no avail). It may seem and look absolutely ridiculous, but I reckon you would need 23" diameter tires for this test (that is, 4" less in diameter than stock, on any size rim with 5 on 4.5 and adequate backspacing). At least it is only for one run!... but the longer and more thorough the run, the better the test. . Make sure to fit the old original speedo drive gear (easy enough, right?), fit the tiny tires (don't forget to air them up to the tire maker's maximum inflation pressure listed on the tire sidewall, and to torque the lug nuts down properly), and then go blast up your trouble hill in top gear at indicated 70 mph (which should be dead-on accurate as stock for true ground speed). Hell, go as fast as you dare if you ain't afeared o' the law, or of crashing! :D ... then come back and let us know the results. . If you ask, I will provide my reckoning and work out all the steps - but I have had enough outbursts from the kibitzers in the peanut gallery than to want to provide the math unsolicited lest I provoke them again (or you could ask me via PM if you like). . That, plus I'd like to avoid unnecessary wear on my abacus. ;).

:agree: - (but I have to take on faith that bit about the part number, that is outside my experience). .

You can agree or disagree with what happened in the days and years after 9/11 but on that day we were attacked and a lot of innocent people and a lot of our police and fire fighters were lost and that is what needs to be remembered. . Aye. . Indeed, the losses sustained on that day are terrible to contemplate, and remembrances are made all the more poignant by the sacrifices and conspicuous heroics of those who did their best to aid their stricken fellows, and in so doing paid the ultimate price. . This adds immeasurably to the slow burn I feel when I find I must question not the fact that we were attacked that day - but instead must ask by whom?

. It would appear that being so deeply invested in your belief of a cooling system fault after you have spent significant time, money, and effort on wasteful and needless replacement of parts that proved to be perfectly good has made you resistant to the possibility of the true fault being something you have yourself suspected for months. That only adds another problem: that belief itself does not change facts. The fact is that you still have an overheating problem - and by refusing to investigate a different avenue of potential causality, you are getting no closer to a solution. Getting mad at the messenger will not help solve the problem either - though perhaps it made you feel better. :D . To answer your first question, "In one sentence, what should I do to fix that?": you should start by answering the question "Did you correct the speedometer for using 3.07 final drive instead of the 3.55 stock pairing the AW4 is supposed to use?", and, if not, either re-gear your final drive (which you need to do anyway in order to regain anything like the stock performance that you gave up when you decided you knew enough about automotive design when you modified your vehicle), add additional water pump flow capacity and accept the 15 MPG you get with your current setup and the possibility of additional problems arising later from at least a partial lugging condition, or slow down your cruise speed to something your current setup will sustain without overheating; if in fact you have re-calibrated your speedo for your non-stock powertrain, investigate problems that may derive from your AW4 swap (potential torque converter and electronic/electrical control faults come to mind). . Sorry the previous sentence is so long, but you asked for it. :P . edit - I see I forgot to answer your second question regarding why the meth head's car is not overheating. The correct answer is, you would have to ask him - I don't have enough information to make a judgement. But if I had to take a stab at it, I'd make a guess that his vehicle is not modified, and so from the factory he has sufficient reserve power and cooling capacity that his vehicle does not overheat..

I find it astounding and incomprehensible that any people endowed with freedom through the efforts of their ancestors who won that freedom through the use of armed force against a tyrannical government would not only willingly give up their constitutional right to protect their freedom by use of arms, but would also enable possible future tyranny by offering monopoly of force to their own government while simultaneously expanding its authority to use force without accountability. . That right there doesn't say much for the smarts of the 'Merican people - no, it doesn't.