opsled

Was sold a couple years ago and I think has been sold again since then. Not sure where it is now. It was a metric ton with an AMC 20 rear and 4.10 gears. A rare package in a gas version. Don't know of any other diesels that had it. opsled

Automan's words are reality with these 2.1's. Ran mine to 265K. Was a fine little truck but not for everyone. Be careful of one that is pressurizing the coolant. Cracked head is the usual problem. They will crack under the precombustion chamber and finding someone willing to repair it isn't easy. Mine was like that for a couple of years. Would only leak bad enough to effect drivability if the boost was over 4ish pounds. Click on the link for video, opsled

Pull the drive shaft and have it spun by a reputable shop. They can cause your symptoms even if they look good. The only way to eliminate it as the culprit is to have it checked. opsled

A froze or binding front axle U joint will also cause this. Symptoms can come and go depending on what is up with the joint. I have seen where one side of the cross is rusted and will intermittently bind. I have seen wear grooves that will do the same. A U joint doesn't have to be sloppy to be bad. Jack the truck up and put the front on stands. Turn the wheel full left and rotate the tires by hand. Should be smooth and without hitches. Rotate full left and do the same. Also check straight and at varying degrees of turn. Should be smooth in all positions. opsled

We've got at least one here for a long bed. Black good shape. Send a pm to jeepcomj if interested. opsled

Pics of truck currently uploading http://s808.beta.photobucket.com/user/op1961/library/#/user/op1961/library/?&_suid=1356985553536046319753014255377

All the 2.1 stuff I have may be gone by the end of the day. There has been much interest in all of it (head, block, extra parts and the truck). If the head meets reserve the buyer will get first dibbs on the rest. If it doesn't all go I'll list from there. The truck is an 86 2.1 metric ton long box with 4.10 gears and AMC 20 rear. Runs and drives but the body is rough to say the least and it needs quite a bit of TLC on the mechanicals (brakes and such). I have the window sticker and original paperwork from when it was sold new. I am the second owner and bought it with around 90k on the clock 260ish on it now. Trans and rears are good engine always starts but is tired. It's cold right now so I just plugged it in and am going to start it up in a few to bring it down and get some pics for an interested party. With a southern rustfree body to build off of a person could put together one of the rarest Jeeps built and sold in the US. 2.1 Jeeps are rare, 2.1 Comanche's even more so. 2.1's with factory metric ton and AMC 20???? Can't be many out there. opsled

Welded mine too. Has been fine since (100+000 miles). Wierd that the welded is OK and the non welded broke??? Say Rob, Pat says you want a window sticker. Could you scan mine and insert your info then print?? Would lone it if so. opsled PS, Figure out anything on your house electrical issues?? Would be interseting to know.

Rob's not a flashy sort of fella and doesn't have the great hair of some others but he is one opportunistc sob. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m3hsJV_HZUk lol, opsled

And Rob got to help too!!!! (Thanks Rob) Nice little car. Nothing special but practical, efficient and gets the job done with extras over a standard car. If not for the low purchase price and the new engine I (we) wouldn't have done it. Was well worth the effort. opsled

Hornbrod probably has your problem nailed. Neutrals/grounds. Do a voltage test on your incoming hots to the main and see what they read. They should both be at 120ish and even during normal usage. If not power is backfeeding into the other line in search for ground. Had a similiar issue in the shop for years. It would come and go but was never right. Sometimes one side would be at 160 while the other was at 80 depending on what antidisestablishmentarianism running at the time. Turned ot to be a bad connection in the neutral on the pole. Electricity is always searching for the easy way to a ground and will do strange things in hunting for it. Have the server check it out if you have any doubt. These things can be dangerous to humans and electricals that are being powered by the system. If you overload one leg of the box it can cause problems like this too. opsled

Not Jeep but old and cool. 1952 FWD 6X6. Red Diamond 450 gas inline 6 Front axle. Tandem rears (check out the drive shafts). 1 per axle out of the T-case. 60's Mack 6X6 Cummins 855 diesel Torsion bar IFS (not many like this) torsion bar Rears. IH 6X6 855 Cummins. IH 1600 Loadstar, 4X4, dual rears, 345 V-8, flatbed, fold up hyd knuckle boom, monster PTO winch on the front. (another rare truck hiding in the brush) Power Wagon. The rest of the truck might be underneath (lol) opsled

My 86 2.1 is 4.10's Don't know what else may have been offered. opsled

Would be my first move aswell.. opsled

That SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSucked...... opsled

I hate when that happens. opsled

Pat needed something to do so I had him and his Bro haul this home. Nice little car with a near new 2.2 engine. Problem is it has been sitting since 08 and the inside had mice in it. Stunk REAL!!! bad!! Also needed brakes but that is minor. Pat got over 15 mice out of the inside. Has the interior gutted, the cab is mostly cleaned up and ready to go with exception of the heater box. It will come out too. Him and Bro are going to strip an identical car with perfect full leather interior on Mon at the boneyard to put back in this one. Should be on the road mid/late next week. Here's how it sits now. I don't have the patience for interior work. Never did. Pat just flys through it. Works fer me. opsled

How's it work on the Renault Le-Jeep?? lol, opsled

I've had an axle yoke with the little ears that hold the U joint centered worn enough to allow the shaft to rotate off center. Will cause weird vibrations. Out of balance or bent shafts can too. Don't assume the shaft is good even if it was OK before you changed joints. opsled

I'll take one. opsled

A louder sound system will cure the problem. Or drop the pan and have a look-see. opsled

My, how we digress. opsled PS, Cool little S-Diesel Rob. Thanks fer posting.

swap, swap, swap,swap,,, Anybody fix anything??? Find out what the problem is first.................................... Then FIX it.. As others said if an auto check the TQ converter bolts. Knocks can come from many different places and rods are only one of them. Rod knocks are consistant in what they do. Louder on a warm engine and also under load. Quieter on a cold engine and while coasting in gear or coming down in rpm. Very consistant in tone and repetition at a steady rpm. Anything erratic in an engine knock is usually not a rod/main issue. Worn bearings are changed all the time on engines without issue. If it is a rod and the crank/rod are still OK changing a bearing isn't a problem. I've seen loose flywheels, TQ converters, transmissions, pulleys, timing gears, and many other things that people thought was a rod going out. Find out what the problem is before you decide how to fix it..... 1 wrench and 20 minutes of tightening may solve the problem. opsled

I would suggest looking under the truck. You might find an answer there. opsled

New shoes in a worn drum can also cause this issue. The arc of a new shoe will be the same as a new drum. The diameter of a worn drum can be so great that the shoe only contacts in the center when applied. If so the adjusters can't do thier job properly and can over or underadjust the shoes. Loose shoes or shoes that don't match the drum's arc can rock and cause locking. An overadjusted sho that only contacts in the center can do the same thing. Whe messing with drum brakes always check the drum to shoe arc by putting the shoe in the drum before installing it on the vehical. The shoe should contact on the full radius of the drum's arc and not just the center. opsled