opsled

:chillin: :popcorn: :chillin: :popcorn: :chillin: :chillin: IDK. Just don't spill my beer. opsled

One thing I remember from that, is that it ate AX5's for breakfast. If I were going this route, the dakota 2.5 bellhousing and AX15 would be a must have. no, it sipped gas for breakfast, ate ax5's for lunch, and dana 35's for dinner. if I had been a lighter footed driver back then, I would not have had as many issues. live and learn I guess. quote] Can you say the word "understatement"???? I think it took him about a week to pull the rear diff cover off because of noise. He showed me a mit full of busted spider pieces and asked what I though would cause that. I told him that comes from smoken 31X15 tires on an open light duty diff. He just said "oh" and walked away to fix it. This was Pat's first Jeep. I would have had a hard time keeping my foot light too at that age. It hauled. opsled

The 96 3800 Camaro swap Pat did on his 86 was a wonderfull engine in that truck. In my mind it should have been the engine for all S-10's as opposed to the 4.3. It was not a direct bolt in and there were many issues to overcome but in my opinion was a perfect engine for the truck. Fuel mileage was in the mid 20's+ and no stock 4.0 could come close to catching it. A very involved swap and there are not many RWD 3800's to be had so,,, opsled

Set your beer down and see if it goes away. opsled

Well, I enjoyed working on it and even learned a couple of things along the way. T'was a pleasure. Dam cool old truck. I wish I could have done a better job of appreciating mine when it was still whole. Glad to see someone that does and it does give me some enthusiasim to look for a donor to reserect old blue. Pat,,, Get the donor..................,, let's build another. opsled

Here is the 2.1 My camera sucks. Rob should be here later and can maybe do better. opsled

Well, ran into trouble. Had the new pump and injectors in in about 3 hrs and was ready to prime and run. Couldn't get it to prime. Tried a few things and had no luck. Installed an inline electric and got fuel to the pump. Bled the injectors and it would run (like $#!&) and would die if throttle was applied. Put the inline electric back in and turned it on while it was running. Ran great!! Throttle responce was nice and it would rev real good. Checked suction and return for issues (none). Put a bulb type primer pump on suction side with a hose to a pony tank and pumped it up. Again it would run real good as long as I kept pressure to the injection pump with the primer. These Bosch rotory pumps have a built in vane type pump that supplys fuel from the tank to the hi pressure side of the pump for injection. Most others will have a seperate supply pump to do that job. My assessment was that the vanes in this pump were stuck and it wasn't pumping. Choices were to take back off and in for service or do it myself. I don't like to pay for something I can do myself so I pulled the pump and tore it down. Assessment was right. The vanes were stuck in and it could not move fuel because of that. The inside of the pump was clean with no signs of wear but was varnished from sitting and was causing things that should move freely to not move at all. The varnish came right off with carb clean but it was enough to eff things up. The advance mechanisim was also sticking so it's a good thing it was done. The vane pump is the first thing to go into an empty housing when reassembling so it had to come completely apart. It's all back together now and I plan on putting it back in in the AM. Hopefully all will be good. I took some pics but can't post them now as my computer is down and I'm using my youngest's sons laptop to post this (laptops suck for us old guys). I wish I computers came to me as easy as bending a wrench. Anywho,, unless I have effed something up (I'm capable LOL) it should be running tomorrow. opsled

Yup, Should have built a truck version of the Liberty too. Coulda sold tons of them. opsled

You didn't actually crawl under that thing on that stump/stand did ya???? That is an obituary looking for a place to start. Be carful!!! opsled

Looked like a fun day. Where was the show? Would have been fun to go. Rob, I went through the whole thread and just realized that I missed the fact that your alternator is Valeo and not Paris Rhone. This could be why your tach isn't reading right. The tach is reading signals from the alt and these signals may be different on the Valeo. On the pump. I'm surprised it is bad. Bosch makes an exellent pump. They are expensive but will usually last as long or outlast the engine they are put on. A bad batch of fuel can take one out though so who knows. Mine has over 260,000 and still works perfect. I had the head off at about 180,000ish and did have the injectors cleaned and checked for pop off preassure. They were just a tad low but still in spec. That was about 10 years ago and I think the cost was around $160 with new copper seals. Doing a comp test when/if you take them out is a good idea. It will give you an idea of the condition of the cylinders and how they compare to each other. It takes a special tester made for diesels and the proper insert to replace the injector. I don't have one but have a friend I can borrow one from if needed. Cylinder cranking preassure should be at about 450 lbs and all 4 should be even. Gauges will vary so up or down from the 450 mark isn't as critical as eveness between the cylinders. If you are over 400 lbs and they are close to even you should be fine. I wouldn't worry about the turbo either. There should be many many miles left in it. Under heavy load it should push the needle to over 10 lbs very quickly but if the engine isn't getting the fuel it needs the turbo boost will be down. These go hand in hand. More fuel = more combustion pressure and more heat. Combustion pressure and heat is what builds boost. Can't have one without the other. These pumps are still rebuildable and as long as the internal hard parts are all OK the cost should be around what your guy quoted you. Where is gets pricey is if hard parts are bad. Bosch quit making that pump and some parts may not be available anymore. If you run into problems let me know. I still have this new one here. Good Luck, Phil (opsled

Walla!! :clapping: All downhill from here. So much for Mott tool 861. Once you've done one they really are'nt that bad. The one I have had blown the belt prior to me getting it. Besides broken parts because of piston/valve interferance timing to install a new belt is not so easy. What Rob is doing here (and by the looks of it does this with everything he tackles) that is key to a good mechanic is to know the animal you are dealing with before you start tossing wrenches at it. There are many oddities out there that get a bad rap because they have special needs that were'nt taken care of when they were needed and/or proper procedures were'nt followed to take care of the needs. Even if you never own one of these there are lessons to be learned by watching Rob's progress. (nice job) They can be applied elsewhere. These little Renaults are one of those oddities. They are good engines that will last a long time if taken care of. The one we have here has over 260K on it now with 410 gears. That's a lot of turns of the crank. If I could get a new one today and parts were available I wouldn't hesitate. This thread will be searchable and will help many who own one of these critters. I looked and looked when I got mine and found almost nothing on the net. This thread would have been a big help at the time. I don't know if it can be done now but if you could add the words "Renault 2.1 Diesel" to the thread title it would be found much quicker on a google search. Nice Job Rob, opsled

Lookin good Rob. A couple of things. That timing belt is way loose. Check out your tensioner. It's right below the camshaft pulley. The tensioner has a pivot bolt, lock bolt and is spring loaded to provide proper tention. The bolt are supposed to be loosened on occasion so the spring can retention the belt. It doesn't look like that was ever done or that belt would be tight even if worn. The tensiner can get corroded up too so make sure it's moving freely. Rad out and crank pulley off is a must to do a good job on changing the belt. I did mine without the tool for holding the pump/cam pulleys but that tool will make things easier. The key to getting it right is to pin the crank at TDC #1 (#1 is the rear cylinder) before the old belt comes off. If you keep the cam/pump timing marks at the pointers in the windows on the cover with the 19 belt teeth between the marks it will be good. Make sure any slack in the belt is between the cam and crank pulleys when the new one goes on. Let the tensioner set the tension and lock it. Pull the pin on the crank and rotate the engine two complete turns and repin the crank. Loosen the tensioner again so it can readjust if needed. You might want to do this a couple of times to make sure all the slack is out of the belt. and I would check it again after the engine has been run. You don't have to pin it all the time but the new belt may need to be retensioned a bit as it wears in. The tensioner can be gotten to without taking anything else apart so it's not a big deal. Be prepared for trouble on the remote filter lines. They will not come off easily if at all. They are bastards and also special. Good Luck, Phil

First vid sound good. Just like a 2.1. Second doesn't sound like one at all. Don't know if it's because of where the camera was during the two (one outside, one in the cab) or if what I hear in the second vid is what you are talking about. I really don't know what to say. I would have to hear it in person to have much of an opinion. A thought though. Fan clutch??? It should freewheel easily. If not or it's locked the fan noise sounds something like what I'm hearing in vid two. Mine locked up somewhere in or about the same miles as yours has on it now and it was quite loud. If so take out the bolts that hold the fan on, put a 3/8" nut on each bolt as a spacer and leave the fan off completely. The fan clutch isn't available anywhere that I'm aware of and I looked hard when mine went. I've run without a fan ever since and have never had an overheating issue. Dono??? We'll have to come and give it a look over someday. opsled

Here is a copy/paste from another thread a while back where someone was asking about the timing belt and the Renault engine. Post subject: Re: Questions about my Turbo Diesel MJ.Posted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 7:08 pm Can spell Comanche Joined: Fri Jul 20, 2007 8:17 pm Posts: 30 The timing belt is a Gates Power Grip HTD. Gates part # is 7700663544. It is a cog belt with the inside tips of the cog being a half round, not square. The book calls for the belt to be changed at 90,000 miles. Mine had just over 100,000 on it when I bought it with a blown belt. All 4 exhaust rocker arms were snapped in half and one rocker shaft support was also cracked. The valves are perfectly inline with the cylinder bore and the pistons are flat topped so it didn't bend any valves (lucky here). The truck now has over 250,000 on it with the same belt I put on when I first fixed the truck. I didn't get to see the OEM belt that broke so I don't know who made it. Maybe the Gates is just a better belt but I don't abuse the truck and do check the belt and it's tension from time to time. It's not an easy job but can be done without special tools in a couple of hours if you use your head. The timing belt also runs the water pump and injector pump so it stays busy. A Chiltons manual will have the procedure but it MUST!!! be followed perfectly and done right or you could be in for big trouble. T'is an odd little engine with # 1 cylinder being at the firewall, aluminum block and head, steel (wet) sleeves and old school precombustion chamber/glow plug style injection system. Pump and injectors are Bosch so it has quality parts in it. Just put together in typical (goofy) French fashion. Mine is used daily on a 40 mile round trip to work and gets 33mpg with 4.10 gears. I've gotten as high as 38 on longer trips and never lower than 26 (all short 2-3 mile runs). It's not a rocket by any means but it is not a pig either. It will cruise at freeway speeds with relitive ease and I have pulled some fairly hefty loads with it for such a small truck. As Pat said, parts are hard to get and interchangability is an issue but I can't complain one bit about the service per doller this one has given me. From that perspective it has been the best vehicle I have ever owned. opsled

Sounds like you are getting on top of things Rob. It's been a wile but what yor're saying on the cold start capsual sounds right. Mine has never had an issue with starting/idleing so I've never had to mess with that but I do remember reading up on it. My bell broke by the starter. It's another goofy design. Heavy starter with a not so solid mount. Mine has been welded. Never an issue since. Phil, (opsled) PS, This isn't mine but this is what they should sound like.

It actually didn't sound to bad (hard to tell without being there) but it is idling to low. It didn't look like the idle solonoid was plugged in (top front of injector pump). It should come out on cold starts and keep the R's up. Will also come out when the heater fan is running. It's been awhile since I've had to mess with mine but as I recall that soloniod is also where you adjust for low idle. They do shake quite a bit if the idle is too low. Tach runs off the Paris Rhone alternator (small green (?) wire at the back plugged onto a spade conector). I have had my alternator rebuilt a couple of times. It seems as though the tach would start acting up shortly (few days) before the alt would give up. The needle would do about the same as yours is doing. Tach up, drop down, peg the needle and stay. Might be your tach issue. That engine is rare for sure in the states here but it's also an odd duck in the way it's built when compared to US standards. Get a book and study up on it before taking stuff apart and don't assume anything. A little thing as an example, #1 cylinder is closest to the firewall not the radiator. Stuff like that can wreak a good mechanice that isn't used to working on these French critters. Good Luck, opsled PS, That thing is in great condition and should be a jewel when you're done with it. Don't know what the miles are but mine has 265,000+ miles on it now and has had 4.10 gears in it since new so you shold have some life left in that one.

Went down to the shop at about 6am (the wind had slowed enough that I could see it) to wake up Old Gordie. Opened up the door so he could see what his morning would entale. No complaints. He fired right up and went about business. T'was a bit of a struggle at times as it was VERY!! deep in places (as much as 5ft+). He kept me nice and warm and got done with his work by about noon. A little cleanup at the end of the day because of more wind but all is good. The pics tell the story. Check em out. opsled

Need some beer wit dat ferd.

thats probably a renault or buick engine, i could be wrong Neither.... Renault hadn't really made it to the US market to screw it up yet... It was Perkins. So what did Renault screw up in the US market??? opsled

lol. thanks for posting, pops. let's emphasize the soon part and get something new figured out. I was thinking a pacer would be nice :rotf: Be careful with the Pacer comments. I ain't as good as I once was but..................... and you gotta see me in the AM. opsled

You won't find much info anywhere on them anywhere. An obscure, odd little creature that even Renault seems to have forgotten about. They were widly used in both turboed and natural applications but most of them were overseas. They are nothing close to a rocket power wise but they will do a substantial amount of work for a long time if you know how to treat and maintain the animal. I wouldn't call them reliable for the average Joe but the one I have been running now all these years has never failed to wake up and take me where I need to go and has never failed to get me home. It has has had issues but has been kept together with showstrings and bailing wire and has never seen it's true needs attended to although it doesn't seem to care as long as I'm nice to it. 33 mpg back and forth to work with 4:10 gears and 225-75-15 tires is the reward I get (makes me wonder how many times the crank has been around in 252,+++ miles, more than most I would assume). If the head wasn't cracked and I could let it have more boost it would get 37-40 depending on the drive. Most would call it a POS but if I could buy a new one just like it I would in a heart beat. If you want to be different, it's just the ticket but unless you have enough knowledge to keep it going or have deep pockets and a second vehicle it won't work for you. As others have said many differences are involved that make a swap impossible without a complete donor vehicle. Someday (soon) JeepcoMJ will have this one to work his magic on and have himself one of Jeep's rarist birds. (Ok, birds may be a bit poetic. Ducks may be more appropriate.) opsled

The timing belt is a Gates Power Grip HTD. Gates part # is 7700663544. It is a cog belt with the inside tips of the cog being a half round, not square. The book calls for the belt to be changed at 90,000 miles. Mine had just over 100,000 on it when I bought it with a blown belt. All 4 exhaust rocker arms were snapped in half and one rocker shaft support was also cracked. The valves are perfectly inline with the cylinder bore and the pistons are flat topped so it didn't bend any valves (lucky here). The truck now has over 250,000 on it with the same belt I put on when I first fixed the truck. I didn't get to see the OEM belt that broke so I don't know who made it. Maybe the Gates is just a better belt but I don't abuse the truck and do check the belt and it's tension from time to time. It's not an easy job but can be done without special tools in a couple of hours if you use your head. The timing belt also runs the water pump and injector pump so it stays busy. A Chiltons manual will have the procedure but it MUST!!! be followed perfectly and done right or you could be in for big trouble. T'is an odd little engine with # 1 cylinder being at the firewall, aluminum block and head, steel (wet) sleeves and old school precombustion chamber/glow plug style injection system. Pump and injectors are Bosch so it has quality parts in it. Just put together in typical (goofy) French fashion. Mine is used daily on a 40 mile round trip to work and gets 33mpg with 4.10 gears. I've gotten as high as 38 on longer trips and never lower than 26 (all short 2-3 mile runs). It's not a rocket by any means but it is not a pig either. It will cruise at freeway speeds with relitive ease and I have pulled some fairly hefty loads with it for such a small truck. As Pat said, parts are hard to get and interchangability is an issue but I can't complain one bit about the service per doller this one has given me. From that perspective it has been the best vehicle I have ever owned. opsled

Now back to topic. VERY NICE FIND!!!!!! I have one as a daily driver and would buy a new one if it were possible. Leave it stock and learn what you can about it to keep it maintained. They are an odd engine and parts are very hard to find. Even harder is finding someone willing (or smart enough) to work on it. Do yourself a BIG favor and check to see if the timing belt has ever been replaced. The book calls for replacment at 90,000 miles. This is an interference engine. If you blow a timing belt the exhaust valves will hit the pistons and break the exhaust rocker arms (this is experience speaking). There are many differences between it and a gas and they are not just engine related. Parts are not available from any jeep dealer and are very expensive. They can be found from other sources but you will do some chasing to get them. The one I'm driving will be in JeepcoMJ's hands soon for a much deserved reserection. An odd duck to be sure but a stand out in any Jeep crowd. opsled

Why don't you take a look at the cost next time your at the station and do some math. Around here diesel is about 10% more expensive than gas. You generally see about 30% better mileage. Even when diesel was 5.50 a gallon and gas was 4.50 a gallon, thats 20% more expensive, still see a savings of about 10%. I went and looked up prices in long island, for several stations I found that diesel was 3.10 and 2.80 for gas. Thats 10% more per gallon for diesel. Oh, and if you weren't saving that much more the diesel market share in europe wouldn't be 55%. One of the reasons diesels don't have a bigger market share is because Americans are generally misinformed and only see the price at the pump, and can't do the math to figure that even if it costs more per gallon, its still cheaper per mile. Plus, diesels burn cleaner than gasoline engines do(look at weighted brake specific emissions), so as a diesel owner you get to look down your nose at all those polluting hybrids. Well said, and to add to your points. Diesel should be much lower in price than gasoline as it is a less purified petrolium product than gasoline and costs less to make. There are many reasons for the high cost of diesel but for the most part it boils down to spreading the cost to those who will complain the least. Gas prices would be much higher than they are now if diesel were priced where it should be. People are fooled into believing that they don't pay for the high priced diesel consumed in this country because they drive a gas powered vehicle. They are wrong. Diesel is the fuel that produces and moves all the goods people consum in their daily lives. The cost of that fuel is reflected in everything they buy. I drive a 2.1 Comanche about 250 miles a week and have been doing so for a few years now. My fuel cost per week at the current price is about $20. Show me a 4.0 that will come close to that and I will buy it. opsled

86 long box, all stock, 2.1 Renault turbo diesel, 218,483 miles, 4X4, 5 spd, 4.10 gears, P-235/15 tires. Driving back and forth to work (about 20 miles one way) I have burned 28.05 gallons of diesel fuel in the last 898 miles which comes out to 32.014+ mpg. The old dog is a little weak in the knees and has a crack in one of the precombustion chambers that will pump air into the coolant if the boost gauge is held at over 5lbs for very long so I have to be easy on it. When the head was good and I could hold the boost at 7 to 10 lbs where the engine is most efficient, I have gotten as high as 37mpg. With the 4.10 gears and stock tires it runs about 3000 rpms at 60 mph which is not a good fuel milage combination so I am impressed with what it will do. It still only will use about 1 qt of oil in 3000 miles and has been running with the cracked precup for over 2 years now doesn't seem to be in any danger of dieing but I am nice to it so it returns the favor by almost never letting me down. It's been a great little truck and if I could buy a new one just like it today I would in a heart beat. the only thing that sucks is the price of diesel fuel. It is at $4.63 per gallon around here right now (down from $4.75 at it's highest) and has been over $4.00 for a loooooong time. opsled