AX-15 clutch slave line popped out - Now fixed with PICS

Driving home from work and lost all clutch pedal pressure. Coasted to the side of the road and found this:

Was able to start the truck in gear and rev-match shift all the way home, which was sort of fun in rush hour traffic.

But seriously, what kind of joke of a design is this? I understand that the clutch pedal pressure isn't as high as brake lines, but really?

Anyone have any quick fixes for this? I don't have $100 to drop on an Advanced Adapters stainless steel braided hose and fittings.

I bent and double flared a piece of brake line to replace the rotted spot on the AX-5 in my '87. Auto Zone carries a the full replacement line (clutch MC to the inlet you pictured) for the AX15/internal slave for around $30. A friend blew the line on his '90 XJ and I was surprised he could pick it up that cheaply.

Ok, so I think I've got a somewhat cheaper alternative to get this fixed. It's still going to require the fitting from Advanced Adapters to turn the pin-style clutch master cylinder into a -3AN connection:

http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/716130--master-cylinder-fitting-for-jeep-yj-wrangler/

Next up we've got a pre-made 60" braided stainless steel hose with one straight and one 90* bend, both with -3AN fittings:

http://www.racepartsolutions.com/prodde ... od=FRA3000

Now I just need to figure out what type of fitting I have on the clutch slave cylinder line. I intend on removing that pile of junk "quick disconnect" crap and replacing it with hard line fittings. There are quite a few choices for adapters that go from -AN style fittings to regular hardline tube fittings and I'm crossing my fingers that the size of the clutch slave cylinder is one of the choices in this link:

http://www.racepartsolutions.com/prodde ... od=FRA6502

If so, I should be able to get all of the parts for under $70 shipped.

Should have all of the parts by Friday. I'll take some pictures along the way. The thread diameter and pitch on the clutch slave line turned out to be 7/16"-24. Total cost of the parts was:

Clutch Master Cylinder Adapter to -3AN fitting: $26.42 shipped (from Advanced Adapters)

Clutch Master Cylinder to Slave Cylinder 60" -3AN Stainless Steel Braided Line: $31.26 shipped (from RacePartSolutions)

Clutch Slave cylinder -3AN to 7/16"-24 hardline adapter: $9.46 shipped (from RacePartSolutions)

Total: $67.14

Customer service at both places was top notch and they shipped both of my orders within 12 hours of placement. This should ensure that my clutch line doesn't randomly pop out anymore - driving without a clutch isn't too much fun.

i am interested in the swapping the clutch line to AN. but have not done it yet so i have no incite to help you.

please post up your pics in DIY project writeup: AN Plumbing: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=28494&start=15

Thanks

Will do. I should have the adapter and hose today to go from the 7/16"-24 clutch slave hardline to a -3AN fitting. The -3AN adapter for the clutch master cylinder should be here tomorrow so I should probably work on getting the MC removed from the truck so I'm ready to swap the fitting in tomorrow.

As things seem to go, once my MJ went down, the radiator on my ZJ started to leak bad enough that it leaves a nice puddle in the driveway. Now, all of a sudden, the rear brakes on my XJ are making some odd noises. When it rains, it pours. Down to my motorcycle as my main mode of transportation...

Here is where we're at so far:

Remove female quick disconnect fitting:

Now you're left with a 7/16"-24 inverted flare male fitting on 1/4" OD tubing:

Install 7/16"-24 inverted flare to -3AN fitting:

is that a stainless adapter?

or is it aluminum?

Stainless steel.

NICE! what made you go with stainless? it's the most expensive compared to aluminum or zink coated steel AN fittings.

I didn't search around much, but it was the only fitting of its type that I could find. A little pricey at about $10 shipped, but it didn't break the bank.

when you are only buying one fitting it dose not make much difference. but when you are doing a large AN plumbing project stainless is out of the question it is simply to expensive. adapter are not that bad compared to hose ends!

but -3 is always premade so price of hose ends dose not apply.

check out Earl's #1: http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index.php

Yea, the site I linked to in my previous post had the -3AN hose length I needed with the correct hose ends already installed plus they had the stainless steel brake line fitting as well. I checked ANplumbing.com too, but their costs were higher than Race Part Solutions. AN stuff gets really expensive really quickly. The fuel rails on my 5.9L Magnum Comanche project use only AN fittings and hoses. There isn't a whole lot on there, but it was a couple hundred dollars in parts.

The fitting from Advanced Adapters got stuck on a late train and didn't come in on Friday like I had originally hoped. Got it today and got everything installed and the clutch bled. Very pleased with the results - the clutch pressure seems much better than it was before with the crappy plastic line and the gears seem to engage a whole lot nicer. Here are some pictures I took along the way:

So far I've driven about 10 miles on it and no leaks. I'll be keeping an eye on the clutch fluid level for the next couple of weeks and check for leaks.

Put about 500 miles on her this weekend - no leaks and solid clutch pedal the whole time. Transmission actually shifts much smoother than it did before. I'd highly recommend taking the $70 plunge and fixing your Jeep before it leaves you stranded far from home!

I'm running the AA line and fittings on mine as well (external slave).....I agree 100% with you.

For anyone considering this mod, be advised AA sells two different sizes of braided line, 48" and 60" IIRC. The shorter one will "work" but you have to route it very carefully so you have enough slack to get from point A to point B. Spend the extra couple bucks and get the longer line.

Jeff

Although I have no qualms with the customer service that was provided to me by Advanced Adapters, I do think that their prices were a little steep on the 60" of stainless steel braided hose. I was able to get the same length (60") of SS braided hose with the same fittings (one 90 degree adapter and one straight) for roughly half of what Advanced Adapter was asking. I posted a link to each of the products I used in the 3rd post of this thread. Like many other Jeeper's on this board, I am on a strict budget so if I can save some coin somewhere, I'm gonna go that route :D

not pluggin AA by any means, whatever is cheaper and works for anyone is the best :thumbsup:

Bottom line is (however you get there), there is a certain confidence while driving down the road when you mash the clutch pedal down that a "real" hydraulic line gives you :cheers:

not pluggin AA by any means, whatever is cheaper and works for anyone is the best :thumbsup:

 

Bottom line is (however you get there), there is a certain confidence while driving down the road when you mash the clutch pedal down that a "real" hydraulic line gives you :cheers:

Without a doubt. I particularly enjoy the confidence of knowing that my hydraulic line is now held with threads and not some rinky-dink adapter that relies on a clip and a small ridge to hold a pressurized line together :D

just ordered the parts, thanks for all the pn##s and for doing the research! :cheers:

ok, So I read this thread with interest, thinking when I did my ax15 swap I'd do this too, well, now my clutch has gone out on me, I was wondering if anyone knew if the BA10 has the same fittings

TIA

I wonder about the fitting size of the AN-3 connection vs the 1/4 tube. Just by eyeball it looks like the AN- connector is vastly undersized. How does this affect pedal travel/feel? I'd think it would increase pedal feel (pressure), and maybe increase the length of travel required to get full disengagement? I'll admit, fluid mechanics was never something I really learned in school. :hmm:

Reason I ask is that I'm soon to be replumbing my entire brake system. One thing I've been reading is that it's best to keep 1/4" line on the main line to the rear brakes, and then split to 3/16. Disc brakes are fine with just 3/16". Reason being is that the larger line works better for drums, which require more travel, and the greater amount of fluid works better.

What I've seen here seems to contradict this, so I have some learning to do. :dunno: Is there another bottleneck in the system that makes this a moot point?

On 6/21/2011 at 4:05 PM, mjeff87 said:

I'm running the AA line and fittings on mine as well (external slave).....I agree 100% with you.

 

For anyone considering this mod, be advised AA sells two different sizes of braided line, 48" and 60" IIRC. The shorter one will "work" but you have to route it very carefully so you have enough slack to get from point A to point B. Spend the extra couple bucks and get the longer line.

 

Jeff

You used the adavanced adapters ss line on an external slave ax15?

Just fyi

Brake lines are made to be used in a similar system but a harsher environment .

They come with the same size fittings and you can easily source one that has both a "rubber" flex end and a long bendable metallic end......at a cost saving......

40 minutes ago, yxmj said:

Just fyi

Brake lines are made to be used in a similar system but a harsher environment .

They come with the same size fittings and you can easily source one that has both a "rubber" flex end and a long bendable metallic end......at a cost saving......

Or you can just buy the Raybestos line and throw the quick coupling out in favour of a union.

That said, it's a PITA to fish the prebent line into place.