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I think 3 is about the limit where you can use stock CAs. I would get some adjustables or atleast some fixed after markets. I just ordered upper and lowers from hellcreek. If your interested I may have a set of fixed uppers from rubicon express in great shape and an adj trac bar from rubicon express for sale.

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I think 3 is about the limit where you can use stock CAs. I would get some adjustables or atleast some fixed after markets. I just ordered upper and lowers from hellcreek. If your interested I may have a set of fixed uppers from rubicon express in great shape and an adj trac bar from rubicon express for sale.

yes :bowdown:

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nicer ride? how would they do that? I guess rubber bushings would be nicer than the more modern replacements. but ride is not generally dictated by the control arms themselves, but rather the angle of said arms, the spring rate of the coils, and the price of the shocks.

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but i thought i can get like a ..gas ride shock... sort of lca for a better ride.

 

I'm so confused by this statement. :hmm:

 

gas shocks are indeed better shocks and will generally have a better ride.

 

the control arm length will affect steering and where your tire is in the wheelwell, but getting control arms that are 1/4" or 1/2" longer than stock (meaning they would be correct for a small lift) is not going to change the ride in any significant way.

 

It's all about the angle of the arms. The steeper the angle, the more you will feel bumps.

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Pete is right, the flatter the arm angle the better. That's why long armed rigs generally ride soother than short.

 

With that said, I switched from Rubicon Express superflex arms to JKS and noticed a dramatic change in ride with my TJ. I am approaching 5 years with the JKS and have had no problems...and I wheel it hard. They utilize the factory rubber bushings at each end. Buy them used (I did) since they are high dollar. Some folks say it is my imagination, but I noticed a change.

 

I would highly suggest adjustable uppers and lowers so you can get the wheelbase set perfect as well as the pinion angle/caster. The slightest harmonic driveline vibe will make it feel like it is rough riding.

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You should get some aftermarket CA's. Like I was saying in my PM, and like Pete has said, the angle is whats important. Lets say you have stock arms and no lift, your CA's will be angled like this --- but angled down a little more obviously. when using stock arms with a lift then end up like this / So when you hit bumps the axle tends to rotate back instead of up making the ride very rough

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Ok so here is the breakdown: on the front if you get adjustable uppers you can point the pinion up and toward the transfercase. This should also give you better handling. Adjust the uppers toward the transfercase then point the pinion down 5*. You could get longer lowers in theory but it won't make a difference. Long arms wouldn't make any difference either. You just need some adjustable uppers (assuming all else is new) to compensate somewhat for your lift.

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or go with the upgrade of WJ arms. :brows: They are definitely better than stock MJ units. Hornbrod used them with his lift and says there is enough adjustment in the factory shims to accomodate a 3" lift.

 

For a 3" or less lift, for sure use the WJ lower arms. The bigger oval bushings provide a super improvement in handling and no worries on tire rub at full lock turns. There is plenty of adjustment room to add additional factory shims at the rear of the arms. I used one additional factory 4mm shim on each side, p/n 52003976, and these brought the caster angle back to factory specs with my 3" lift. There's no need to mess with the uppers arms unless they are due for replacement. They usually are, so I did replace mine with new OEM units. Very easy to do and was verified w. my magnetic finder, then an alignment check by the local dealer.

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or go with the upgrade of WJ arms. :brows: They are definitely better than stock MJ units. Hornbrod used them with his lift and says there is enough adjustment in the factory shims to accomodate a 3" lift.

 

For a 3" or less lift, for sure use the WJ lower arms. The bigger oval bushings provide a super improvement in handling and no worries on tire rub at full lock turns. There is plenty of adjustment room to add additional factory shims at the rear of the arms. I used one additional factory 4mm shim on each side, p/n 52003976, and these brought the caster angle back to factory specs with my 3" lift. There's no need to mess with the uppers arms unless they are due for replacement. They usually are, so I did replace mine with new OEM units. Very easy to do and was verified w. my magnetic finder, then an alignment check by the local dealer.

thanks alot

I'm going with the wj lower arms and a oem for the upper

which year wj lowers can i use?

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