Pete M Posted March 1, 2011 Posted March 1, 2011 any ol' method will do. :thumbsup: just be sure not to melt the rubber and you'll be fine.
STERLING STINGER Posted March 1, 2011 Author Posted March 1, 2011 http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoWJcontrolarms.htm this guy is confusing. he is saying you need to weld the lca after u cut it??? i dony understand. it IS 5am, so i could of read it wrong..but i don't think so. Pete, you make it sound so easy! I was going to get these today but now waiting.. i need to put these on so i can get n alignment..
STERLING STINGER Posted March 1, 2011 Author Posted March 1, 2011 any ol' method will do. :thumbsup: just be sure not to melt the rubber and you'll be fine examples perhaps???
Pete M Posted March 1, 2011 Posted March 1, 2011 I used a chop saw with a metal cutting blade, but a sawzall or angle grinder with the appropriate blades would work too. It's just a steel bushing and you need to trim off the ends so the arm is the same width as the stock MJ unit. heck, a hack saw would work if you want to work on those arm muscles. :D
STERLING STINGER Posted March 1, 2011 Author Posted March 1, 2011 I'm gonna put up some pics of the recently purchased lcas... the brand is Dorman i got new ucas also...dorman, stock size..92 mj and i got new dorman lcas for a 04 grand cherokee..hope i got the right ones :shake: here's a pic of the uppers minus the bushing, which is coming tomorrow :wall: Image Not Found here's a couple pics of the lca... i think i need someone to photoshop for me where to cut...please... i have many tools to do the job, but i wanna be 100% sure where to cut. any advice on installing would help me out alot too... there pretty long Image Not Found here's a couple pics to choose from Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found thanks a million Paul
terrawombat Posted March 1, 2011 Posted March 1, 2011 The other bushing for the upper control arm is pressed into the front axle housing. It can be a real pain to get it out. How are you planning on getting the old bushings out and the new ones in of the axle housing?
STERLING STINGER Posted March 1, 2011 Author Posted March 1, 2011 i didnt know i had too... can't i just leave them in place and change everything else, except that one bushing?
STERLING STINGER Posted March 1, 2011 Author Posted March 1, 2011 oh, ok i see them now... i would like to change them, but if its too hard.....hmmmmm
terrawombat Posted March 1, 2011 Posted March 1, 2011 They can stay, but if the old bushings are pretty torn up, it's one of those "while you're in there, might at well do it" fixes. I've heard of people having some luck with the ball joint press tool you can rent from AutoZone and Advance Auto to get those out and new ones in.
STERLING STINGER Posted March 2, 2011 Author Posted March 2, 2011 ya i don't see anywhere to even have enough room to use that tool. I'm just not going to change them. anyone know where they gotta be cut to fit ???
Pete M Posted March 2, 2011 Posted March 2, 2011 anyone know where they gotta be cut to fit ??? if you're talking about the steel bushings in the lca, I just measured the stock ones and trimmed off a bit on each side. essentially you'll be cutting them flush with the rubber bushing. but if you want more accuracy than that, wait til someone chimes in or until you take out the old ones.
HOrnbrod Posted March 2, 2011 Posted March 2, 2011 I'm just not going to change them. Then you will be doing a 50% half-azzed job. I changed my UCAs out recently, and the arm bushing looked to be in good shape, but the one's in the axle were much worse. If you don't change both bushings, there's really no point because both bushings need to be replaced, that's what wears out. I used a similar home built press described in this article (it used to have pics) and it worked well. Just lubed it good w. PB Blaster out and in. As far as the WJ LCA steel tubes that goes thru the rubber bushing, I just trimmed them off about 2mm longer than the rubber bushings so they just squeezed into the mount on both ends. This made sure it didn't damage/compress the rubber when torqued down. Doing the control arms right w. new rubber makes a huge difference in the front end feel, even if it's a PITA, especially when you hit a pothole. Absolutely no steering shake as before.
STERLING STINGER Posted March 4, 2011 Author Posted March 4, 2011 done! rides nicer... pita too get the upper bushings out, and back in lowers went in with a little band saw help... next...alignment for the 100th time...lol
Pete M Posted March 4, 2011 Posted March 4, 2011 did you need to shim the LCAs at all to bring the caster to spec and center the tire in the wheel well?
STERLING STINGER Posted March 4, 2011 Author Posted March 4, 2011 i didnt do anything like that. they are centered in the wheel wells tho. well see tomorrow when i get it aligned if i did anything wrong..i guess
STERLING STINGER Posted March 5, 2011 Author Posted March 5, 2011 alignment went good, i guess as good as an alignment can go. caster camber toe $66.00...not bad and they went through and checked every one of my front end bolts and torqued them to specs for free!!! kost tires... everythings brand new in my front end now...in the suspension at least...phew..lots of work and money..but i owe you guys alot for your help. thanks alot again... :bowdown: so now next i guess I'm gonna get rear shocks since my stockies are topping out.. oh yeah, i still got a clunk ...very tiny and only on certain bumps....wierd...but nevertheless, its there under my feet maybe the exaust, ot the universal looking parts on the driveshaft???still a noob...lol oh well, to the next post>>>>>muhahahahahahaha
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