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So, in swapping my 2.8 for a 3.4 I'm also getting rid of the AX5, NP207, and clutch pedal/master cylinder. I know that the bellhousings are the same between external and internal and that the clutch fork is different on the 84-86. Are there any other differences? And what's the value of said package? I have no clue how many miles are on them, the truck had at least 320k when I got it (the speedo cable was unhooked for who knows how long before I got it) and I've added 30k. Is the clutch fork the only really valuable bit of this? There's not a single AX5 on Facebook within a hundred miles of me to get an idea of price and Jeeps get picked clean within hours at local yards, so I know there's a demand. The only one on craigslist is an internal slave 300 miles away, and they're asking $250.

Pulling the 2.8 wasn't a huge deal. But the hoist couldn't get quite tall enough to get the 3.4 in. I swapped the trailers wheels with 235/75r15s on, and even then I had to deflate them to about 5 psi to get enough to get it in. I probably should've taken the header panel off but Regardless, the 3.4 and 4L60e are in the truck. Bolted up the NP242 today and started working on the transmission mount, more on that later. Looks like a decent angle for the engine to rest at. Need to measure driveshaft angles before I finish the trans mount. I didn't plan on pulling the dash twice this year, but here we are. It'll help with the wiring and let me fix some routing I wasn't crazy about from after the floor replacement. I can't stand wiring but, I think I'm done with the wiring aside from routing it on the truck and doing the crossover between harnesses at the ignition switch and the brake switch. I took the engine bay harness from the truck in the house and eliminated all the unnecessary stuff like the starter, a/c, and carb/emissions related things. I should be done with the Camaro harness as well aside from the routing and crossover parts.

In my experience, 3" or more lift on short arms rides terrible. The control arms get low in their arc and must actually move ahead to go upward which creates a harsh ride. Long arms or drop brackets are the only cure. Our truck was built before all of the fancy long arm stuff came out and has drop brackets. It works so well that I have no reason to change it. The ride difference before and after the drop brackets was incredible.

Old GMs, and likely others, used an oil filled shock instead of a gas charged shock. I would think it’ll be fine.

as the title says wondering about non gas charged hydraulic shocks in the front, going away from stud top mount shocks because I can't find any with 15"-16" of travel. found a set that are long enough without going to coil overs, but they are non gas charged hydraulic shocks. anyone with with experience running non gas charged hydraulic shocks in the front? unsure if stock shocks come with a charge in the front or not. I have had the current set for so long and they have a charge in them. am I over thinking things, and they will be fine. Or should there be a gas charge. if so, how come?

Right. I know what I'm looking for is a unicorn.

Unfortunately, I suspect a lot of those people haven't even seen a long bed with a roll bar, let alone own one. I would guess that you got so many views because of the title before people realized that this was a wanted ad and not a for sale ad.

569 views and no responses...about what I expected. I was willing to pay market rate and drive to pick it up. Oh well, the after market one will be installed next week.

Look at all the energy! I'm sure she'll make a great sister to the other pup.

did this question get answered? I saw it in another forum but couldn't find a corresponding thread in tech.

puppy energy!

Got another Australian Cattle Dog two weeks ago, she’ll be 10 weeks old tomorrow. This one is blue to compliment our 9 year old red one. Her name is Whoozewhatzit after the candy bar.

Still waiting on my local fab shop for something to cure my steering interference issue. In the meantime I went ahead and checked off another item on my wish list. Hella 550s, under $100. Wired in for factory style operation. Tapped the wires for C102 pins 6 and 10 on the engine control harness side since my lighting harness lacks all the fog light goods. Made 2 Y harnesses for the lights' power and ground and tucked them in neat with split loom. Hung the relay in the driver's side inner fender well close to where it would have been factory. Loving it...

Spring rate and shocks make the most difference. Different springs can be softer or stiffer. Same with shocks. Above about 3-4", the short arms of the XJ/MJ get too steep and ride quality suffers.

Shocks are a huge factor. The amount of lift and angle of the control arms are factors too. But the biggest part will come down to quality of the springs and quality of the shocks.

Depends on a LOT of things, you want a touch screen radio that fits in the DIN opening, look no further than this Sony. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158XAV8100/Sony-XAV-AX8100.html?tp=5684 What's your budget on this? This will cover the HVAC controls, but I'm sure you could reach behind. You could get some el-cheap-o Android head unit and, well you will see... You could get a simple Alpine 149bt and have the Bluetooth hook up every time you step into the truck flawlessly, then control your songs on the radio. A touch screen in this dash is going to be a nuisance, if you want to modify it you will lose the HVAC controls, or the best vent in the truck.

We don't have a lot of experience with lifts, but we have now owned two XJs that are lifted and both ride/rode noticeably worse than stock suspension. Do all lifts ride stiff? In principle I guess it makes sense that to make the vehicle higher the suspension components need to be taller and stiffer, but if all lifts are as stiff as what we've experienced, then no thanks, we'll pass. I once saw a James May clip where he said car modifications are stupid and always make the car worse (can't find the clip right now) and I'm starting to believe him. One had spacers in the front and taller leaves in the back. Front rode OK. Back rode stiff. Our current lifted XJ (see link below) has a Rough Country lift kit, which I know don't have the best reputation, but I'm surprised at how stiff it rides. I'm actively communicating with a couple guys about buying or trading for their stock suspension take-offs to put it back to stock. If we were to lift anything it would be the Comanche. I don't know if it's because it's longer or because it has the single row of seats, but it just "feels" low even though I know it's the same height as the stock XJs (I measured). For whatever reason it "feels" like an El Camino rather than a pickup. We'll probably never lift it, but if we were, that's the Jeep we'd lift.

2 door XJ seats for sale in Idaho. https://www.facebook.com/share/14Hc4D6N4cY/ We don't need these, but I know they are desirable for those of you putting bucket seats in your Comanches. Don't know if the guy will ship, but if needed we could help facilitate. Figure someone out here will want these, just don't know if shipping will be prohibitive.

Your aftermarket stereo will (should) come with a connector for itself, with bare ends for whatever you're putting it in. I used a Metra adapter from Crutchfield for the factory harness side. I don't have a 1990 Electrical manual, but I believe it's the same as 1988. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120701002/Metra-70-1002-Receiver-Wiring-Harness.html?tp=2977

I understand that. It seems everybody is using Face Book. FB denied my account. Used to be you could at least look at the FB page.

i am installing an aftermarket radio in my 90 MJ can someone please help me with the wiring diagram please

Aww yeah! Lookin good the entire way

Drove 400 miles to Philadelphia, loaded up the MJ with a bed full and drove it 400 miles back home. I'd guess we were near 1000 lbs. Handled it well with only hitting the bump stops two or three times. Got 20 mpg on the way down and 18 mpg on the way up to home.

Do check that all manifold studs are actually present, particularly the lower one nearest the back. Mine had backed out completely and was missing, I didn't realize it at first.

It's a real pain in the @$$ to deal with a company that is only on Facebook. Bad dad fab is my last resort because of this.