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How’s the WilderNest going? Start a build thread for it.

After helping my buddy do a myriad of mods on his Tacoma, including lift, wheels, tires, and wiring some of his electronics, I decided to actually make forward progress on the truck seeing as every step I've tried to make this year has somewhat just blown up, I decided to do something easy. Or something that should have been. After stripping the Novak motor mounts from my old truck I definitely mixed in the hardware with other random hardware. Instead of guessing I just decided to reach out to Novak and order a new hardware kit. Seemed pretty straightforward, however the hardware I received didn't match what was listed in their directions. It also seemed to be possibly missing some washers and 7/16 bolts. Quick run to ace and I got everything installed. I did have to run a tap through the blind holes in the frame, as they had been gunked up pretty significantly with the rhino liner that was sprayed on the chassis. The hardware Novak included was m10x1.5 so that's what I tapped them with, I don't recall if this is the original threading for these holes, but the tap definitely did tap into the steel. The bolts appeared to tighten just fine, and nothing stripped out, but I am considering drilling these holes out with a 23/64ths bit and tapping to 7/16-14. That should give me a lot more bite if I decide to go that route.

Not very often that you hear about a 2wd Laredo. Looks like a nice truck for the price.

Time for some updates: new PSC box is in and it works perfectly. Old box was 100% to blame for the horrendous steering I was experiencing. Need to finish aligning the steering wheel, but that should be a quick fix. I’m thinking I may need to grab some general spring rear springs as my spring rate is just a bit too soft for my use. I frequently trailer or haul heavy loads and could really use a higher spring rate. My current leaf springs are a rebuilt oem pack with a BDS add a leaf. They flex excelenty and are about a 1” lift over stock. From experience, I know the general springs will provide a mild lift over stock even in their 4 leaf configuration. I’m thinking they should keep a nice ride height if I swap them for the current pack. I would be negligent to not mention what an awesome steering box the PSC big bore unit is. They provide taps and caps for running hydro assist if I ever go that route. Truly a quality product. I’ve given up on ever finding a decent rebuilt box. Redhead should have been a quality unit but unfortunately it failed the test. Best thing redhead could do now is accept a return but I doubt they will Some pics of the Tomahawk getting some much needed attention.

Hi all, this will be the third build I've documented on here. However, this is one of the original 3 Comanches that my dad and I worked on together (hence my username). This Comanche is a 1988 Laredo. It's a 4.0 with a 2wd BA10 Trans and Dana 44 axle. The backstory on this Comanche is as follows: It started life in Jasper, GA at the old Jasper Jeep Sales dealership. The original owner purchased it in November of 1987 and brought it back to Alabama and registered it not even 30 minutes from me. It was ran into a ditch sometime in 1994 which tore the front end up and twisted the frame slightly. The repair job that had been done was pretty sloppy. However, it would continue to be driven for many more miles. The original owner passed in 2013 and the registration wasn't ever renewed. I'm not quite sure what happened to it after that. I vaguely remember seeing a Comanche in the local junkyard that looked the exact same as this one sometime between 2015-2017. Part of me thinks it was this one. But, I have no way of confirming it right now. Sometime in February of 2018 when I started helping my dad work on his 1987 Comanche, I found this one on Craigslist about an hour away from me. I told dad about it and we went to look at it. It was pretty rough; the paint was peeling, it burned oil, one of the lifters were collapsed, and the odometer showed 198k miles. It also still had the tag from the previous owner. Despite all of that, we ended up getting it for $800 and picked it up a week later. I named it Mitsuka, the name of my favorite game character during that time. In the time we've had it, we resprayed the header panel, replaced shocks, had the replaced the engine, and did many other things to it. We finally got the papers for it and registered it in 2019. I would end up daily driving it for about 16k miles before the transmission let go in February of 2022. Since then, I parked it while searching for another BA10 that was worthwhile of installing. In November last year, I found a deal I couldn't pass up. I found a complete 1987 Cherokee with a 4.0, AW4, and 231 Tcase for 300 bucks. I figured this made more sense than spending over a grand on an AX15 swap. And since I have an extra driveshaft for this configuration, I decided to take this route with Automatic and 4WD swapping it. Everything else will be left original. What I've done so far: Removed the driveshaft, wiring, and fuel lines Stripped the donor Cherokee What needs doing: Old driveline removed Install new driveline install new wiring harness for the automatic transmission install vacuum lines for the transfer case find and install front axle with the same gear ratio as rear What I'd like to do in the future: Complete respray with correct pinstripes and decals When dad and I went to see it for the first time: How it looked the last time It was on the road (Early 2022):

Singles or Doubles will work, just as well. I'll send detailed pictures of anyone who has either.

I soaked it overnight is some carb cleaner and was able to get it apart. I can't believe I still had front brakes. The front passenger brake is routed through the end port where the corrosion and build up was. I was still able to bleed both front calipers. The o-ring sizes as measured in inches are (id=internal diameter od=outside diameter) 1) thickness .07, id .407, od .545 2) thickness .07, id .243, od .375 3) thickness .07, id .181, od 317 4) thickness .07, id .153, od .286 Edit: O-ring sizes needed -012, -010, -008, and -007

I was able to move the fuel line 2.5 inches out board and that fixed the clearance issue. I drilled a new hole for the existing clip.

That thing looks like it’ll be a blast!

1992 Base 4.0L automatic 2 WD Build date 1/92 Clay county IL Red with grey interior

I have a set but need to check condition. I know at least 1 has broken studs. not sure on the exterior shape. I will check in a couple days.

More cj's on the forum is a good thing!!! Maybe I should get mine out and back in service......

I feel like yes that’s true but they’re so new that it’s not hard to keep those stock right now.

Even the JK and JL do that.

I think any Jeep prior to the JK do this. Haha

I might have one side. I know I got a couple that the studs were broken or missing. Not sure where I put them.

I know that slope too well. I'm already well down towards the bottom. I have my two other MJ projects to go crazy with. I wanted this one specifically to keep as a mild Jeep.

That pair from eBay arrived. The caps are just as described... straight, not warped, and not many imperfections. Molding and replicating these should be possible. Believe I'm almost there on how to go about mold making. Unfortunately, what ever pair I use, the studs will need to be sacrificed. I'll need to cut them out, and make that mid plastic spar flat. With that being said I am willing to exchange these with a pair that is equally MINT, but do not have the bolt studs for whatever reason. We both pay shipping, and detailed pictures will be sent of each pair. Administrators and frequent members of Comanche Club only respond please.

Careful… CJs are a slippery slope that tend to lead to other questionable decisions.

looks like fun!

I was keeping an eye on craigslist and this popped up for a reasonable price and I snagged it. The paint is shot and there are some mechanical issues but it's basically straight and it runs. The hard top is in decent shape, as are the factory doors. I need to fix some of the seals though. 258 L6, Tremec T176 4 speed manual, Dana 300 transfer case. Front Dana 30 and rear AMC 20. It looks to have a mild lift kit, maybe 2" or so. 31x10.50 tires. I'm not going to mod it much. First round will be some basic maintenance and getting it to pass emissions. The "big" tires don't play well with what I believe is 2.73 axle gears so I'll probably step up a bit there. Probably throw a trueteac or two in while I'm there. I have an old Warn 8274 winch that will go on. And I'll likely swap out the janky bumpers that are on it now. It will eventually get a full repaint as the clear coat is shot. This is going to be a fun weekend driver for mild trails. I may even find a soft top and doors for summer driving.

i second not using the detroit axle crap.we've installed some of there crap that customers have brought in and its mostly crap.

I've got some grand ideas for it, but I have no idea how long it'll take me to get to them. It's what it does best Part of it is really seeing how much I can get out of the 2.8 till it pops. I'm amazed it's done as well as it has considering what I found under the valve covers 2 years ago. Yeah I'm very stoked about all the room I have for activities in there.

The photo appears to show clearance for the fuel linebetween both the booster and the inner fender/chassis. If that is the case, there is no need to move the fuel line. if you are really concerned about rubbing/vibration between the fuel line and the surrounding stuff, clip a pice of rubber hose over the fuel line to act as an insulator.