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Might want to run some evaporust through that block.

I have no idea on the aftermarket of those. I’d imagine it’s tough since mercury is toxic.

Hello everyone, I’m in the process of building my Comanche into a camping rig and need some advice. I already have a rack and tent setup, but I’m looking for a way to keep water out of the bed and off my gear when it rains. Since a topper won’t work with my current setup, does anyone have recommendations for an aftermarket cover that could get the job done? Thanks in advance!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/236301924121

those are reused codes that apply to some later car. chrysler reuses old codes all the time (to the great dismay of enthusiasts of older rigs. you probably also didnt' have a 130amp alternator

One look at the coolant was distressing enough to warrant a "super flush". I ended up replacing all the coolant hoses in the process, admittedly later than I should've. It took more time than I care to admit, but I got this money shot for my labor. Pic was taken after the samples had time to settle. Fresh water's on the right for reference. In the months since I've replaced the water pump and swapped in a new old stock 195F Stant Superstat. I also hosed the radiator and condenser (what's left of it) out with A/C coil cleaner. The condenser was especially packed with grit and grime, blocking airflow from the radiator. All said and done, even with the E-fan out of commission, I'm operating solidly between 195 - 210F.

Found this:

Mercury switch. That’s the name. Are there aftermarket options rather than searching through JYs?

I've done a few of the explorer leaf sets over the years soo I'm well aware of their effectiveness. I did aquire a set of 3 leaf f150 leaf packs which are rated lower than the factory mj leafs (1180 iirc vs 1280) for a mere $40. I'm still gonna keep my eyes open for a set of the 1415lb or even 1900lb leafs though. All I can say is windrock TN had me getting a little wild with the throttle and aggressive ledges

Isnt that a mercury switch? I know Fords of the same era have the same kind of lamp assembly. Maybe GM ones have the same part as well?

Thanks, I’ve had it posted on marketplace for awhile but nobody’s been interested. I have a lot of photos of it I love

I do believe I've found the problem. that used to be a grounding bolt. rerouted the wires to a new location and we're back to where we were before. driveable, but not exactly impressively powerful. next up, I've ordered new air and fuel filters.

Does anyone know the name of or part number for the gravity activation switch in the light box? I have a light that is in decent shape and want to get it working. I can get continuity before the switch and after the switch. The switch is supposed to make contact when the box is tilted up.

the 99 Explorer leafs I tried on my old '90 were close, but not close enough. the tire was no longer centered in the wheelwell and I lost height. if I can find a pic I'll share.

Overview of crater lake from last weekend.

Bigger hammer. It's tough to break suspension pieces. The Crescent wrench to bend those tabs open ever so slightly has worked for me in the past. Keep us updated!

THIS. 😳

Here's an interesting anecdote - I've a cheap Borescope I purchased at one point to chase down a plumbing issue in my house. I ran it down cylinder #1 on June 1st, and it looked like this... Pictured from bottom to top: The piston, cylinder wall, head gasket, (covered in gunk), and the cylinder head. I'm no ASE Master Tech, but to my untrained eyes, that looks awful. Everything was covered in oil and gunk, spare the valves (not pictured): Here's #1 as of today, September 1st :O There's still apparent carbon deposits on the piston and cylinder head, but the cylinder wall is clean and the head gasket's visible. Also looks like the carbon's starting to disappear near the edge of the piston. And yes, the engine still has oil in it... I checked Now I can't empirically identify what fixed this, and I've no idea what cylinders #4-6 look like... But I am extremely pleased.

Alright, time for backfill: For day one the engine was running rough and idling around 1k. Initial investigation revealed an improperly seated air filter, and black residue on the intake hose and throttle body. Spark plugs looked fine. My dad and I ran two cans of intake cleaner that’d been sitting in the garage for time immemorial. After some choking, sputtering, and careful application of throttle, she was idling happy at 500 and running much better. Got a new air filter installed and properly seated. I’ve stuck to fueling up at “Top Tier” participating gas stations, treating each fill up with Lucasoil injector cleaner, and avoiding short trips. In the months since I’ve taken the truck out for day trips, and several late night Italian Tuneups on the interstate ;) It's all together made a TREMENDOUS difference. At some point an earnest rebuild’s warranted, but for now she’s running well within tolerance of a high mileage example.

Interesting! If I'm reading this right, "SELLING DEALER: FCA US LLC" + "YALA | EXECUTIVE LEASE PROGRAM" + "YAN | ACTIVE LEASE VEHICLE (NBU)" + "4BAA | COMPANY CAR TRACKING" + "4E3 | ASSEMBLY PLANT TRACKING" = most likely a pre-production test vehicle leased to a Chrysler employee? That could explain why the first registration on CarFax was dated to '93. Perhaps I'm reading into this too much. Would "WJHP" be the code for 10-slot wheels? I've no idea what was on there originally. Everything else seems about on point. Thank you so much for this!

Not much progress lately. The last 3 weeks have been 70+ hour work weeks with Volvo work in between. First day off from everything Saturday. I put fluid in the brake system and bled it, quick and easy with the Wilwood valve. Yesterday, I spent some time on maintenance with my 92 C1500 street rod truck and 94 Firebird. Then I started going through some of the nut and bolt stuff on the front end of the MJ. Discovered an interference issue turning to the right with the drag link/ tie rod joint and sway bar link. Considering putting more bend in the drag link, outboard of the TRE to draw it forward for right turn clearance. Downside is having to do that every time I replace it in the future... Not interested in spending over $700 for a Currectlync setup to fix a minor issue with a D30.

BODY: TL61 BUILD: 10/09/90 SELLING DEALER: FCA US LLC ORION TWP, MI *Q7 CLOTH LOW-BACK BUCKET SEATS -SA CHARCOAL ADAA LIGHT GROUP AHL HEAVY DUTY INSULATION GROUP ALR ARMA OPEN BAFP 130 AMP ALTERNATOR BCYP BATTERY CACP BUCKET SEATS CDBP RECLINING FRONT SEATS CKAP CARPETS - FLOOR AND CARGO AREA CUFA FULL LENGTH FLOOR CONSOLE DGB ALL 4-SPEED AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS DHSP ERH 4.0L I6 POWER TECH ENGINE GFDP REAR SLIDING WINDOW GNCP SUN VISORS W/ILLUM VANITY MIRRORS GRZP LEFT REMOTE MIRROR GSZP RIGHT REMOTE CONTROL MIRROR GTZA MANUAL REMOTE MIRRORS HAA AIR CONDITIONING HGDP DELUXE INSULATION GROUP JAYP DO NOT USE - SEE JP, KA CLASSES JGBP JHAA VAR INTERMITTENT WINDSHIELD WIPERS JJAP CIGAR LIGHTER KLTP DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE KWDP DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE K2BP STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR K27P DO NOT USE LAJP HEADLAMPS ON WARNING CHIMES LBBP COURTESY LAMPS LBDP ASH TRAY LAMP LBEP AMBIENT LIGHT LDAP UNDERHOOD LAMP LHDP HEADLAMP OFF TIME DELAY LNJP FRONT FOG LAMPS MBJP BLACK BUMPER MCAP MDAP FRONT LICENSE PLATE BRACKET MFKP BODY COLOR GRILLE MHAP BLACK WINDSHIELD MOLDINGS MMKP NHM SPEED CONTROL PW7 BRIGHT WHITE CLEAR COAT RAAC ALL RADIO EQUIPPED VEHICLES RAFA OPEN RCDP 4 SPEAKERS SBAP POWER STEERING SCGP STEERING WHEEL SUAA TILT STEERING COLUMN TRMA TIRES TZAP GOODYEAR BRAND TIRES WJHP 15X7 ALUMINUM WHEELS WLZC ALL ALUMINUM WHEELS YALA EXECUTIVE LEASE PROGRAM YAN ACTIVE LEASE VEHICLE (NBU) YBBA TAG INSTRUCTIONS YEPA MANUF STATEMENT OF ORIGIN YGEA 5 ADDITIONAL GALLONS OF GAS Z01P REAR SPRING GROUP I Z59P LEFT FRONT SPRING GROUP IX Z78P RIGHT FRONT SPRING GROUP VIII 3AGA PRICE PROTECTION - CODE G 3V5A CUSTOMER PREFERRED DISCOUNT 4BAA COMPANY CAR TRACKING 4E3 ASSEMBLY PLANT TRACKING APAS MONOTONE PAINT BGAS POWER FRONT DISC/REAR DRUM BRAKES DGSS 4-SPEED AUTOMATIC AW4 TRANSMISSION DHAS LOCK-UP TORQUE CONVERTER DMDS 3.55 REAR AXLE RATIO DRJS DANA 35 REAR AXLE GACS TINTED GLASS WINDOWS GBBS TINTED WINDSHIELD GLASS GCBS FRONT DOOR TINTED GLASS GEHS FIXED DOOR VENT GLASS JCAS 85 MPH PRIMARY SPEEDOMETER K3WS STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR LBCS GLOVE BOX LAMP LMAS HALOGEN HEADLAMPS MB1S BLACK FRONT BUMPER MMCS MMGS BELT MOLDINGS NAAS FEDERAL EMISSIONS NBKS CATALYTIC REDUCTION NF2S 18 GALLON FUEL TANK QW7S BRIGHT WHITE CLEAR COAT SFAS STANDARD DUTY FRONT SHOCK ABSORBERS SGAS STANDARD DUTY REAR SHOCK ABSORBERS TBCS COMPACT SPARE TIRE TBMS TIRE CARRIER WINCH XBSS PICKUP BOX YAAS BUILD TO U.S. MKT. SPECIFICATIONS Z1AS GVW/PAYLOAD RATING 1ASS U.S. MISCELLANEOUS SPECIAL 115S ZONE 15-CHRYSLER CORPORATION-MISC

NEW ORLEANS, LA

Make sure you read through some threads on the full 97 swap first. I know the pedals are difference and the steering column hole of the firewall area needs to be changed. Honestly, with the REM, I think that Renix is just as reliable as an OBDII Jeep. Even the later XJs are still becoming old cars at this point, so before long, I suspect that they will have similar issues that Renix is known for.

Last 2 pics bringing back the memories on my project. Your floors are way better at least. Seems like you have all the skills and equipment to do the 97+ swap. No judgement from me if you go that route. I only went halfway and did HO on Renix. My HOA would not have stood for me cutting up a junk XJ in my driveway or back yard.