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Ah... It's cool that I have an AMC, but also this. Too bad. I had been wondering why some of the trucks in the registry had so much more info. Thanks for explaining!

Well I'm happy to report that it's an AW4, which I suspect will make things easier as I go along. I've only driven it onto and off a trailer, so anything is possible still. Will get it onto a lift tomorrow morning to start poking further...

The hounds tooth pattern looks good @Aidenmoreno3. For anyone interested in going the same route of interior refresh, one 4x8 sheet of hardboard ripped lengthwise at 24", will give you both door cards, and the back carpeted bulkhead beauty cover, with material to spare for odds and ends. If one goes hard board route, I would highly suggest painting or otherwise sealing the entirety of the final cutout of the hardboard. I'm planning on hitting mine with herculiner after I get all the cutouts fine tuned. as you can see in the pictures I have yet to cut any of the pieces to shape. I live in the PNW...Wet! so for me its a no brainer to ensure the replacements aren't as susceptible to the elements as the originals. Cheers!

On the backside of the door card, the original "board" material is stapled to a rounded piece of plastic (abs?) that seats into the top trim channel lip under the front corner of the window.

Agreed. You can get a jig that you bolt in place on the transmission and use it to drill out holes in the right place. Transfer cases between MJ/TJ/YJ/XJ/ZJ/WJ at least all have the same clocking. Same with the full size Jeeps from 80-91. Though spline counts will vary.

Probably late to the party, but I am running the Kicker 48TCWRT122, I really wanted to build a big ported box for my Alpine Type R shallow sub, but I went the cheap and easy route. I am powering it from an Alpine PDX-V9's sub channel with 500 watts, it is perfect. The truck is fully covered with dynamat extreme, but that rear window slider rattles like mad when pushed. I figured a sub with a passive radiator was a good compromise instead of a port. I am an audiophile, but I prefer a lot more bass than the traditional, a sub or two IS a requirement, not a option.

This is a big misconception. The transfer case is not the issue it is the transmission. It is has the transfer case bolt pattern is drilled at a different angle to sit higher off the ground than the Cherokees. But in most cases you can re-drill the bolt pattern and it works fine..

That's too bad, a very good looking Pioneer in a great color.

Hello and welcome to the forum! A YJ donor for the T case is usually a challenge as they are clocked a little bit differently relative to the transmission compared to an XJ or MJ.

I've had a similar situation locally. I've seen someone in a burgundy MJ multiple times, we've pointed at each other and he even gave chase to me once but we haven't actually caught up to each other. I also have been told by many people that there is another black one locally but I've yet to see it.

This is a good trick that speeds up the process and gives great results.

The best combo I found was the doorman tank with the original black cap. The cap with the brown vent just wouldn't hold pressure for me for the three different tanks I went through.

Keep the shims where they are at and use your old bearings as set up bearings. Given you can remove them with out damage and they are not completely worn out. I used a Dremel with a sanding drum to open up the inner diameter of the bearing to be a slip fit instead of a press fit. You can buy setup bearings but they tend to be more than new bearings.

Thanks, I wasn't sure how that assembly sealed in the housing, whether they'd get messed up when I pulled them out or not. Sounds good. I'm still not sure whether I should purchase a 2nd inner pinion bearing for setup purposes, and put the pinion shims under the bearing, or press the bearing right against the head of the pinion gear, and shim the outer race to housing for depth. I got my "Powertrax" in today. Yeah, instead they sent me a ring and pinion for a Ford 9.75". Completely useless. Now I have to figure out that mess through Amazon, hope the package doesn't get even MORE damaged going back to Amazon for my refund, and then try to complete the purchase a 2nd time. Not too thrilled about that goof up. They're by FAR the cheapest place for oil changes too. Way better prices than Napa (I recently found). I originally purchased a filter and oil for my wife's car at Napa, it came up to over $60! I think HD was under $40. Not that $20 makes me feel rich, but it's a large % difference.

Decided to address the nameplate issue. My goal is to not really touch this car until I get both Jeeps assessed like Chunk and the leaf spring bushings and shackle. Little Red and the track bar. But I have a list going of what needs to be fixed on this car. Im wondering what I got myself into haha.

Thank you sir 🙏

oh my...

Nice!

If it’s still stock for the drive train, it should have an NP207. Unless it was swapped.

tires are installed! and even better, that noise I feared was a wheel bearing was the old tires all along. side note, walmart isn't kidding when they say "Product May Vary From Picture"

tinted windows doesn't refer to what we normally think of with the plastic sheet stuck to it, it's just that the glass has a slight tint built into it. as soon as you see a plain glass window you'll instantly understand. GEC is likely a reused code and those words apply to a later model Chrysler product. and those 3 letter codes aren't abbreviations, they are just random letters. there should be WAY more codes for your truck, but a ton of data for the AMC years was lost before they got into the chrysler computer system. if you go look at a 92's build sheet you'll see what I mean.

Thanks, it's been a fun project. Although I've done plenty of engine swaps before, this is the first one I've done on my own vehicle. Zapped together the XJ and Camaro shifter cable bracket today. The paint is drying in the shed and I should be able to put it back on tomorrow. Started on the exhaust today as well. Got the pass side of the y pipe tacked together (the easy side), and plan on trying to tackle the driver's side tomorrow. The flux core welds aren't pretty, but it should flow much better than the 2.8 one a lot of people used for the 3.4 swap even with the BFH clearancing I had to do to get the pipe between the bellhousing and control arm mount. Incidentally, the 2.8 y pipe won't work with the 3.4 oil pan anyway, the clearance between the pan and the pipe is just a little too close and the pass side would interfere with the oil level sensor in the pan. I've read some accounts that putting headers on the 3.4 makes a decent power gain and I can see why, the stock y pipe necks down to a little under 2" for seemingly no reason. Maybe it was an attempt to keep heat dissipation down in certain areas of the exhaust?

Mine were plug and play, but I've seen people on FB say they needed to change their flashers. I believe they have resistors built in.

It's gone! Who bought it?

I wouldn't look into it that much. Chrysler reused a lot of the codes over the last few decades.