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Steve has been great to work with. Mine will be arriving next week and am looking forward to it

I was going through my camera roll and ran across these pictures. Every year, one of our neighbors does a get together with old cars and tractors. My brother took his J10, I took my tractor, and my parents took the MJ.

There's a bird that's makes a nest in that spot on my truck a few times

yes I did and broke two sockets trying. but I like the welding idea

or well is there any disadvantage using the hex head bolts over the OEM? they are 10.9 grade just for the hell of it shoot me a price with approx shipping I'm @ 97211 area code

I like that. I do have a welder, but in order to do this I still have to remove the knuckle assembly of the front axle. which I'm to do w/o a gas torch set-up. but I do have an 8# sledge and a good size pickle fork. thanks

Thanks for the idea. I checked but the ones I found look identical to the assembly I got from RockAuto. They also say they're shipped from China. MTS claims to make theirs in the US but the picture of JPSU-7P also looks the same from eBay.

Hello everyone! Is there a way I can get a build sheet for this bad boy? 1992, 4.0, 5 speed manual, rwd short bed.

check ebay. there might be a reseller that has them in stock

My thoughts exactly.

Grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain’t!

That gap makes it easier to clean . It's going to get dirty one way or another, better to keep it accessible.

Well, it looks good, going to be stuck inside for the remainder of the week it sounds like waiting on the parts still. That’s alright, the weather will suck here for the next week anyways so I am not complaining..too much lol. here's a photo in the meantime.

They are tough ones for sure, weld a nut to it. I have Spares if you want to replace with OEM style instead of Hex head.

I went back in my photos to see if I could come up with any more reasons. Part of it is the frame has to be that low to fit under the cab. I would guess that the curve to get the top of the frame higher couldn’t be quicker because it wouldn’t have been as strong in the event of a rear end collision. Now why they didn’t just make the frame rail taller right at the rear of the cab, I don’t know, other than possible cost.

You can try welding a nut to the bolt head. Also try pounding a smaller size socket onto the bolt head. Is there room to drill the bolt out or cut the head of the bolt off?

Part of it is that the fuel filler neck passes through that cap.

Given as it seems by design, I still can't figure out what possible utlity that gap could have.

I'm replacing all ball joints on my 88 MJ, 2wd 4.0l, auto, big ton. I've tried a series of ideas trying to remove a stripped caliper bolt head, no luck. it's the LH upper 6 point bolt head. one question is I was going to replace all 4 caliper bolts with a flange hex head bolts unless someone can suggest a different solution. from my understanding these bolt types were changed in 1990? right now I'm unable to remove the rotor hub assembly. was going to disconnect the brake line at the caliper and tie rod and remove the entire assembly as a whole and take it to a machine shop to have the bolt removed. another idea was once I've removed the knuckle assembly, could one grind off the caliper bolt head and then remove the caliper from the knuckle? I'm sure this has happened before and would like some direction as to a solution. appreciate your opinions thanks Bryce

The end is never near Lol

Yeah, the mounting scheme for the Saginaw steering box in the MJ and XJ is not the best. Aside from the fact they only use three bolts (instead of four found in other Saginaw boxes), they rely on some formed internal sheet metal spacers to keep the two "walls" of the frame from collapsing towards each other when the mounting bolts are tightened. Further complicating the flimsiness of the mounting is that the walls of the frame are not that thick, so getting rambunctious with the wrench when tightening the steering box mounting, one can potentially collapse the frame in the steering box area. The aftermarket steering box spacers help to reinforce this part of the frame, as does the use of large HARDENED washers under the heads of the steering box bolts. (Using longer steerring box mounting bolts allows the use of such washers.) And how do I know this? Because my MJ was wandering on the road, and I found that my frame was cracked around the steering box bolt holes, causing the box to move when the steering wheel was turned. (A previous owner had put some monster swamper tires on the vehicle, and it overstressed the box mounting.) To fix this, I ended up welding in more robust spacers and some gusset plates to fix the cracked frame walls. Since I have performed that repair/upgrade, my steering box has been noise free, solid, and steering is more precise (at least more precise for a solid axle pickup truck with recirculating ball steering.)

ZJ Steering works well on mild lifts with 31-33's. The general spring replacement leaf springs will net enough lift to accommodate a 3" front lift coil. Add a leaf is another good option with 3" front coils.

Thank you everyone i will keep you posted!

Also, I use KYB Monomax shocks up front. YJ ones. On the rear I use some white box ones from IRO. Probably Rancho 200's. Didn't quire balance well. I put in some Rancho 8000 Adjustable on the mid setting. I like it better. I used some Raybestos E3 brake lines that are for a 3.5-4.5 lift. YJ as suggest by Pete would be a good start. OK, auto or manual? Auto, I like 4.10 gears for a 31's. On a manual, 3.55's should be about right. I did have stock steering on a '98 with 31 X 10.5. Did OK. I did have a Rusty's Track bar on that. I was at 4.5 lift. Maybe a ZJ's steering setup. I forget what in the ZJ's steering is a bit beefier. Also, what Year MJ? The older pre 90's had different brake setup. So, might be able to go with a larger brake rotor.