Jaime Posted August 14, 2014 Author Share Posted August 14, 2014 Well it finally died in a parking lot and not in the middle of traffic. This is what I observed. My volt meter starts at 9 with a red zone to the next line then 14 to the next line and finally 19 at the last line. When it turned off it went to the line after the red mark then past the 9, going downward, for a moment. After that it went back to the line after the red zone. The oil gauge went to zero but slowly. The temp did not move. The fuel did not move The tach went to zero. The radio did not turn off. The lights did not turn off. On a side note. I noticed that when I use my turn signal the volt gauge jumps about 1 or 2 volts. I checked the connectors at the ballast resistor and they seem OK. The brown plastic wiggles, but the metal connector is tight on the post. Now when I touched the white part it was very hot. I mean I could not even touch it. Is that normal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 Bypass the ballast temporarily and see what happens. Sounds like there's a lot of resistance in the thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaime Posted August 14, 2014 Author Share Posted August 14, 2014 Will it be OK to run it with the bypass for a few days? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 Forever if you like. It's only there to keep the fuel pump noise down anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaime Posted August 14, 2014 Author Share Posted August 14, 2014 OK I jumped the ballast, got it up to temp, let it run for awhile, and it didn't shut off. The big test will be tomorrow. I'll let you know. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 OK I jumped the ballast, got it up to temp, let it run for awhile, and it didn't shut off. The big test will be tomorrow. I'll let you know. Thanks again! Woohoo. Hoping for a good report tomorrow!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaime Posted August 15, 2014 Author Share Posted August 15, 2014 Well the darn thing shut off me on the way to work again. This time I had to cycle the key 3 time before it would start. Something new occurred when I to started it this evening. I turned the key to the on position but did not crank it. I was waiting for the fuel pump to prime when my tach jumped to about the two bounced a couple of time and then went to zero. This time it did not start on the first crank. It did start on the second crank and ran fine all the way home. I tried to make it happen again but was unsuccessful. What do you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 Tach gets it's signal from the ICM....... C on the connector. Green with tracer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitemanche Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 Hey cruiser Do you think the cps wires might be temporarily touching something hot and cutting the truck off? Jaime double check if your wires aren't touching anything hot....if the cps wires is hot it won't give the right reading and shut off the truck completely.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 Hey cruiser Do you think the cps wires might be temporarily touching something hot and cutting the truck off? Jaime double check if your wires aren't touching anything hot....if the cps wires is hot it won't give the right reading and shut off the truck completely.... Excellent idea to check them. In my Tech Photos somewhere on CC, there's a diagram of the routing. Here it is!! http://comancheclub.com/topic/43691-jeep-technical-photos/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaime Posted August 15, 2014 Author Share Posted August 15, 2014 I wiggled the green wire coming from what I believe to be the ICM and could not make the tach move. That's the unit under the coil correct? Is there a test I can perform to check it? I am dropping the tank tomorrow to check on the wire that cruiser was talking about and fix the o ring to the pump that I discover is leaking on my last fill up. I am also going to pull the ignition switch and replace it since it is not expensive. I think that I will pull the CPS and visually inspect it or I may just replace it since it will be out anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaime Posted August 19, 2014 Author Share Posted August 19, 2014 Hello it's me again. This weekend I pulled the tank and tightened the crimps. I also discovered that the CPS wire was melted; but not touching anything and some bare wire showing. I got a new CPS and routed it like the diagram on Crusiers post. Thinking that the CPS was the problem, I stopped there. WRONG!!! It shut down this morning just sitting on the driveway. It also shut off three more time on the way to work. Every time after it shut off, it started back up. The problem is getting worse. It used to shut off only once on the way to work. It shut off 4 times this morning but not at all on the way home. Help I don't know what else to do other than just start buying parts in hopes that I fix the culprit by chance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 Have you checked the ignition coil itself yet? I had essentially the exact problem you're having now and it fixed it. Not sure how you'd test it if it's an intermittent failure, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaime Posted August 19, 2014 Author Share Posted August 19, 2014 I went ahead and bought new coil and installed it. I'll let you know tomorrow if it fixed it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaime Posted August 20, 2014 Author Share Posted August 20, 2014 Hello everyone. Well it seems that the coil was the culprit. I went to work and back without it shutting off on me. I'll let you know at the end of the week if I have no more issues. I don't understand how the coil tested good but it is still bad. It must have a short inside or something. I did not replace the coil before because it tested good on three separate occasions hot and cold. I want to thank everyone for all the suggestions given to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 :banana: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Woohoo!! Keep us in the loop. Seems those ohms tests for alot of parts are pure bull$#!&. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaime Posted August 27, 2014 Author Share Posted August 27, 2014 Hello We'll the coil was not a permanent fix. On Wednesday I had to leave work on an emergency and of course the truck did not start. After about 6 times it finally started. It would crank but not start. Then about half way home it shut off again and then started back up after cycling the key. I have not done anything to it since then as I have been with the wife in the hospital. So does anybody have any other suggestions I can try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 Intermittent issues are a bear. Let's regroup and list what you have done so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaime Posted August 27, 2014 Author Share Posted August 27, 2014 I have done; Steps 1 thru 5 and step 27 of your tips. Changed the fuel filter. Dropped the tank and tightened the connections to the fuel pump. Found the CPS wire to be melted and bear wire exposed but not touching anything. Changed CPS. Installed new coil. That seemed to have solved the problem for about 2 or 3 days. Other than to just start changing parts, I don't know what else to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 Adjust the ignition switch yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaime Posted August 28, 2014 Author Share Posted August 28, 2014 No I did not as I thought that the coil had fixed the problem. I was actually going to change the ignition switch. In reading the FSM, it said that I needed to use some kind of spring clam, because of a spring that is under high tension. Can you give me some direction as to what they are talking about and how to replace/adjust it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 You're adjusting/replacing the electrical portion of the switch. Not near the key. Click on my tech photos link below and scroll through. You'll see it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaime Posted August 28, 2014 Author Share Posted August 28, 2014 It seemed simple enough to me at first but then I read about the spring. Guess I read to much into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 It seemed simple enough to me at first but then I read about the spring. Guess I read to much into it. I think you were reading about changing the key tumbler...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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