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newer master and booster on ebay. will it work for 87 mj?


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It says it can be bolted up to older Cherokees "without modification." That should include Comanches, as well, since XJs and MJs are identical at the firewall and forward.

 

However, I don't believe it's correct that no modifications are required. Others have done this swap, and I think you can find a write-up or two. I have not done it, but I think I recall something about the length of the pushrod the brake peddle being different.

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It's not stated in the description what year the booster/master was pulled from. If it's from a 95-96, no problems. If 97+, the booster rod is too long and you would have to use your 87 booster rod. This is according to the MADXJ site. See if you can find out what it came from.

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I'm planning on doing the WJ booster swap. It'll fit in the MJ with very minor modifications and is a improvement even over the XJ dual diaphragm booster.

 

A few local guys have done this swap in their XJs. And I helped a buddy put one in his MJ. The only problem is the cost, unless you can find a wrecked WJ.

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It looks just like the 96 one I swapped into my MJ, but verify the year like Don said just to make sure. You'll need to modify the end of the pushrod to accept the older style brake switch (carefully....if you take too much off like I did it won't work. I ended up swapping in the entire pedal assembly out of the XJ I pulled the booster/master out of and adapted the newer style contact switch). I also had to relocate my washer fluid resivoir too, and had a bunch of fun running new brake lines from the master output to the prop valve.

 

Overall, it was a PITA swap for me (partly my fault because I ground off too much of the end of the pushrod), but it was probably one of the best mods I've ever done to my MJ. The extra braking force gained is well worth the trouble.

 

Jeff

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If you get the correct one just use your existing brake switch just cut off a flat side, ( I just use a cut-off wheel ) drill out the hole to match your stock size use the same hardware and your done. :brows:

 

Mine was from a auto trans slightly shorter than the stock no need for spacer (used RTV for seal) came out perfect.

 

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Wow that's cheap, that should be OK as long as he stated the year correctly. Short rod OK, Long rod Bad. Ask if he has the spacer you may need it. Also you can reuse the same lines thats on the master cylinder just get one of thos cheap tube bending tool and bend them enough to fit they bolt up perfectly.

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I think your better off just getting the correct one, base on that article cost was $20 to swap and $25 to ship back and forth, prices probably gone up by then. There one here in my local Pick your part but they charge way too much. $25 for the booster $25 for the MC and $25 for the prop block, you guys back east get great prices compare to west coast at least this JY. I paid $54 for my booster and MC.

 

Last night I clicked to see if you bought it, but you decided to wait and now it's gone. Oh well next time.

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