where can you get new break lines

[JpComancheKid]

my break lines went out today and I was wondering where you can get new ones. Do you guys have any suggestions?

[mvusse]

NAPA, Advance Autoparts, Autozone, Checker, ....

 

Any auto pats store should have them. You will have to bend them into the correct shape yourself, though,

[Motion Offroad]

Hard or Soft lines?

[JpComancheKid]

they are hard brake lines, thanks I will head to the local auto parts store and buy some

[Pete M]

Advanced Auto Parts was the only big chain store by me that carried the brake line in bulk. I think all of them had smaller lengths with the preformed ends though.

[Eagle]

they are hard brake lines, thanks I will head to the local auto parts store and buy some

You're looking for 3/16"

 

While you're there, you should also buy a double flaring tool and some extra end fittings, along with a few couplers for joining lengths of hard line together. Once brake lines start popping, they are all suspect. I can't tell you how many times I've replaced a section of line, only to have a nearby section pop a leak when I try to bleed after the repair. Just bite the bullet and replace everything, then you won't have to worry about it.

 

The pre-fab lengths won't be perfect to get you from point 'A' to point 'B' and that's why you'll need the flaring tool. Oh, yeah, and a small tubing cutter, too. Don't cut brake line with a hacksaw -- the cut has to be pretty straight and clean or you can't get a good double flare on it.

[mvusse]

they are hard brake lines, thanks I will head to the local auto parts store and buy some

You're looking for 3/16"

 

While you're there, you should also buy a double flaring tool and some extra end fittings, along with a few couplers for joining lengths of hard line together. Once brake lines start popping, they are all suspect. I can't tell you how many times I've replaced a section of line, only to have a nearby section pop a leak when I try to bleed after the repair. Just bite the bullet and replace everything, then you won't have to worry about it.

 

The pre-fab lengths won't be perfect to get you from point 'A' to point 'B' and that's why you'll need the flaring tool. Oh, yeah, and a small tubing cutter, too. Don't cut brake line with a hacksaw -- the cut has to be pretty straight and clean or you can't get a good double flare on it.

 

Tell me about it. I knew better, but $$$ was limited, so I decided to just replace the leaking section and decided to do the rest at some point in the near future. So I get the leaking section replaced, to find the next section leaking. Replace it only to blow the next one during bleeding, and the next one. When I was done I'd spent $20 in gas running to the parts store 6 times total, and had a brand new line from the front distribution block to both rear wheels.

[Wildman]

:agree:

 

Take the above advice, you'll save alot of time in the long run :brows:

 

Here's a post from the pass, give you most all the info you need for the brake lines.

 

Also, JTdesigns posted this little 'how-to' double flair. Here.

 

One thing you might want to plan on.....replace the wheel cylinders. If your truck is very rusty, the lines will be "rust-welded" to the wheel cylinders, The bleeders frozen up and for the $11 for new ones, it's not worth the time to try to get the lines off, plus, it's a good upgrade to solve problems latter, for bleeding.

 

A little anti-cease will help when you put the lines back together.......little on the lines at the hollow nuts, and some on the treads of the hollow nuts. Also take the bleeder off the new wheel cylinders, and coat the treads with some anti-cease.

 

And......while your at it.....Replace the rear soft line, RAYBESTOS Part # BH381089....About $12.

 

If you have not.......remove the rear hight valve and the 2nd brake line, and follow the info on the front distribution block. Info here.

 

All this "extra" work will solve alot of future problems, and give you years of trouble free rear brake problems.

[ifixit8]

:agree:

 

Take the above advice, you'll save alot of time in the long run :brows:

 

Here's a post from the pass, give you most all the info you need for the brake lines.

 

Also, JTdesigns posted this little 'how-to' double flair. Here.

 

One thing you might want to plan on.....replace the wheel cylinders. If your truck is very rusty, the lines will be "rust-welded" to the wheel cylinders, The bleeders frozen up and for the $11 for new ones, it's not worth the time to try to get the lines off, plus, it's a good upgrade to solve problems latter, for bleeding.

 

A little anti-cease will help when you put the lines back together.......little on the lines at the hollow nuts, and some on the treads of the hollow nuts. Also take the bleeder off the new wheel cylinders, and coat the treads with some anti-cease.

 

And......while your at it.....Replace the rear soft line, RAYBESTOS Part # BH381089....About $12.

 

If you have not.......remove the rear hight valve and the 2nd brake line, and follow the info on the front distribution block. Info here.

 

All this "extra" work will solve alot of future problems, and give you years of trouble free rear brake problems.

 

 

Is that rear soft line good for soa swap? I have been looking for the part # of that line.

[Wildman]

:agree:

 

Take the above advice, you'll save alot of time in the long run :brows:

 

Here's a post from the pass, give you most all the info you need for the brake lines.

 

Also, JTdesigns posted this little 'how-to' double flair. Here.

 

One thing you might want to plan on.....replace the wheel cylinders. If your truck is very rusty, the lines will be "rust-welded" to the wheel cylinders, The bleeders frozen up and for the $11 for new ones, it's not worth the time to try to get the lines off, plus, it's a good upgrade to solve problems latter, for bleeding.

 

A little anti-cease will help when you put the lines back together.......little on the lines at the hollow nuts, and some on the treads of the hollow nuts. Also take the bleeder off the new wheel cylinders, and coat the treads with some anti-cease.

 

And......while your at it.....Replace the rear soft line, RAYBESTOS Part # BH381089....About $12.

 

If you have not.......remove the rear hight valve and the 2nd brake line, and follow the info on the front distribution block. Info here.

 

All this "extra" work will solve alot of future problems, and give you years of trouble free rear brake problems.

 

 

Is that rear soft line good for soa swap? I have been looking for the part # of that line.

 

NO, I do believe that an early Dakota soft line will work, being longer, and same size fittings.

 

This is from rockauto.com - ('88 Dakota)

 

RAYBESTOS Part # BH38576 {Professional Grade}

Rear; Center $16.12

[92comanche4x4]

Advanced Auto Parts was the only big chain store by me that carried the brake line in bulk. I think all of them had smaller lengths with the preformed ends though.

i just got all new line front to back for mine today from advanced for like 25.00

[WahooSteeler]

Wildman, you mentioned disconnecting the height proportioning valve, which is a common opinion on here. That being said, I was going to hook mine back up (was disconnected when I got the truck) since most of my use is hauling or towing things. With my recent acquisition of MT packs ( read: increased loads :brows: ) it seems like an even better idea to make use of it. Those are my "pros" so if you and others could tell me the "cons" I'd feel better prepared to make a edga-ma-cated decision to hook up or not to hook up. :popcorn:

[mvusse]

I still have mine hooked up, and it works well. Why change something that works? When it quits working I'll replumb.

[LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW]

I just moved it down to the other bracket. You can see where it used to sit in the pic at the top. I gained a lot of length, and the factory one is plenty long now for me even at 6.5" with 35's. Total cost, about 10 mins of time...

 

[WahooSteeler]

I still have mine hooked up, and it works well. Why change something that works? When it quits working I'll replumb.

 

That was my thought, so I thought I'd ask for problems it presents before hooking it back up.

[HOrnbrod]

Wildman, you mentioned disconnecting the height proportioning valve, which is a common opinion on here. That being said, I was going to hook mine back up (was disconnected when I got the truck) since most of my use is hauling or towing things. With my recent acquisition of MT packs ( read: increased loads :brows: ) it seems like an even better idea to make use of it. Those are my "pros" so if you and others could tell me the "cons" I'd feel better prepared to make a edga-ma-cated decision to hook up or not to hook up. :popcorn:

 

I put on a new set of MT packs too, and it gave me about 2-1/2" of lift. My load sensing valve was working well before the lift, and I wanted to keep it. So I made a new rod 2-1/2" longer than the old one and the valve is working as before.

 

In your case, is the valve disconnected as in plumbing, or just the rod is discoed from the lever? I think it's a good thing to have if it works. The operating lever on the valve body should be just above parallel with the axle tube.

[WahooSteeler]

Haven't taken a close enough look yet Horn-man to see if it is just disconnected or has plumbing issues. But with no major negative points made yet as to why NOT to have it, I'll plan to hook it back up some time soon. Thanks for the input y'all............. :cheers:

[Wildman]

I don't see any problem with hooking up the load leveler, as long as it still works, the problem is, they have been discontinued long time ago, and even the parts to re-build and re-set them are no longer available. That's where the problem come into play.

 

They are a good advantage if your hauling a load, I remember when Ford also use a load leveler for the brakes years ago, now no manufacture uses them, plus, with rear disks, not even needed.

 

I say, if it works, hook it up and use it, BUT......maybe Eagle will be so kind to post the 12 :roll: step process that's need to bleed the brake system after you hook it back up ;)

[HOrnbrod]

They are a good advantage if your hauling a load, I remember when Ford also use a load leveler for the brakes years ago, now no manufacture uses them, plus, with rear disks, not even needed.

 

Pretty sure the Toy Tacoma p/u's still have them Bob. At least they did in 2006.

 

And if you retain the stock MJ combo valve under the master when you convert to rear disks, the rear brakes will still be biased more under a heavy load. At least mine is w. my Ford Explorer disk brakes. I hauled a crapload of patio bricks from Home Despot recently and it was noticible. :cheers:

[Wildman]

 

Pretty sure the Toy Tacoma p/u's still have them Bob. At least they did in 2006.

 

 

 

They could have.......I try not to look at Toyota's at all, even sitting at a red light, I look the other way :roll:

 

Like I said, I've seen them on the older trucks from the 60's & 70's, I have no idea when they were phased out.

[HOrnbrod]

They could have.......I try not to look at Toyota's at all, even sitting at a red light, I look the other way :roll:

 

I'm not crazy about Toys either, but I love the older 40 series Land Cruisers, especially the diesels. Used to run them up and down the mountains in the Philippines and developed a healthy respect for them. Since then it's been all downhill...........

 

Sorry for getting off-topic. :cheers:

 

[WahooSteeler]

FJ40s are absolutely awesome. I haven't seen one that couldn't do anything a Jeep could do off-road. One of my best friends had one in high school, after the straight 6 died, he talked his Dad in to putting a 350 in it, as so many other people did. Suffice it to say we won many a stoplight drag against some hot rods. But that motor got us in a lot of trouble off road. I guess when your 16-18 you think HP offsets any steepness of hillclimb, depth of a mudhole, or just lack of traction. :D

[ifixit8]

:agree:

 

Take the above advice, you'll save alot of time in the long run :brows:

 

Here's a post from the pass, give you most all the info you need for the brake lines.

 

Also, JTdesigns posted this little 'how-to' double flair. Here.

 

One thing you might want to plan on.....replace the wheel cylinders. If your truck is very rusty, the lines will be "rust-welded" to the wheel cylinders, The bleeders frozen up and for the $11 for new ones, it's not worth the time to try to get the lines off, plus, it's a good upgrade to solve problems latter, for bleeding.

 

A little anti-cease will help when you put the lines back together.......little on the lines at the hollow nuts, and some on the treads of the hollow nuts. Also take the bleeder off the new wheel cylinders, and coat the treads with some anti-cease.

 

And......while your at it.....Replace the rear soft line, RAYBESTOS Part # BH381089....About $12.

 

If you have not.......remove the rear hight valve and the 2nd brake line, and follow the info on the front distribution block. Info here.

 

All this "extra" work will solve alot of future problems, and give you years of trouble free rear brake problems.

 

 

Is that rear soft line good for soa swap? I have been looking for the part # of that line.

 

NO, I do believe that an early Dakota soft line will work, being longer, and same size fittings.

 

This is from rockauto.com - ('88 Dakota)

 

RAYBESTOS Part # BH38576 {Professional Grade}

Rear; Center $16.12

 

Thanks for the tip. when I get the chance and the $$$ I will be replacing all my lines and bypassing that hight sensing valve since I am missing the rod and the diff end. I doubt that I will really need it anyway.

[wooky48]

The valve and lever on mine is in place and hooked up. How do I know if it's working correctly? :hmm: Sometimes it feels as if the rear brakes are pulling more than the front, other times it feels "normal". As was said before, if it's working don't't fix it :brows: