justinquilliam Posted April 19, 2008 Share Posted April 19, 2008 has anybody done the stroker kit on a 4.0l, using the crank and connectiong rods out of a 258? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted April 19, 2008 Share Posted April 19, 2008 There are several people here who have done it, and I'm planning on doing one. Here's the thread for mine; http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5942 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue XJ Posted April 19, 2008 Share Posted April 19, 2008 I've been running ove for the last 2 or 3 years now. 4.6l, 258 crank and rods, .030" over pistons 263hp, 321ftlbs at 2100rpm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted April 20, 2008 Share Posted April 20, 2008 Check out www.JeepStroker.com for a lot of good info on doing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejndssn Posted April 20, 2008 Share Posted April 20, 2008 here are some additional sites you may want to look into :brows: http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com and here is another that i belong tohttp://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/strokers they have a lot of data and experience. good luck BTW i have been stroked for a few years now (AP kit with a light wt crank) and If i had to do it again :hmm: .... :beerhead: hell yeah :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted April 21, 2008 Share Posted April 21, 2008 Check out www.JeepStroker.com for a lot of good info on doing it. Really? ...maybe I'm missing it... other than the chick in the Bikini and a couple engine blocks that someone is trying to sell (Titan I assume), I didn't see the "good info" you mentioned... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted April 21, 2008 Share Posted April 21, 2008 Check out www.JeepStroker.com for a lot of good info on doing it. Really? ...maybe I'm missing it... other than the chick in the Bikini and a couple engine blocks that someone is trying to sell (Titan I assume), I didn't see the "good info" you mentioned... :chillin: Sorry...I am very tired from 4 days of camping & wheelin'. There should be another "S" on the end. Try this... www.JeepStrokers.com ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted April 21, 2008 Share Posted April 21, 2008 Check out www.JeepStroker.com for a lot of good info on doing it. Really? ...maybe I'm missing it... other than the chick in the Bikini and a couple engine blocks that someone is trying to sell (Titan I assume), I didn't see the "good info" you mentioned... :chillin: Sorry...I am very tired from 4 days of camping & wheelin'. There should be another "S" on the end. Try this... www.JeepStrokers.com ;) The other link was from a place in Ocala, so I thoughtmaybe there was some inside sales deal you were trying to pimp... :eek: Just kidding... Thanks for the other link! :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted April 21, 2008 Share Posted April 21, 2008 I am just starting my second stroker. Key points are keep the CR under 9.0 - 9.25 so you can run lower octane fuel and make sure your quench is not too far off the factory specs. Something under 0.085. If you stick to these two rules you should have a nice reliable non detonating jeep. Educate yourself about the engine you are building, check stuff yourself or make sure you get a good machine shop who will check everything, deck height, piston dish cc, head thickness etc no point in shaving 20 thou off a block that has already been cut. You will be in big trouble really fast. I also wouldn't do more than a +.030 cylinder overbore. The 4.0 starts to run a little hot at +.060. (Been there) and you are out of options if something happens and you score a bore. Also IMHO stick with factory cam, if you want to improve the breathing port the head. It will get you nearly the same results. Over and out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted April 21, 2008 Share Posted April 21, 2008 I am just starting my second stroker. Key points are keep the CR under 9.0 - 9.25 so you can run lower octane fuel and make sure your quench is not too far off the factory specs. Something under 0.085. If you stick to these two rules you should have a nice reliable non detonating jeep.Educate yourself about the engine you are building, check stuff yourself or make sure you get a good machine shop who will check everything, deck height, piston dish cc, head thickness etc no point in shaving 20 thou off a block that has already been cut. You will be in big trouble really fast. I also wouldn't do more than a +.030 cylinder overbore. The 4.0 starts to run a little hot at +.060. (Been there) and you are out of options if something happens and you score a bore. Also IMHO stick with factory cam, if you want to improve the breathing port the head. It will get you nearly the same results. Over and out. I understood basically nothing in your post (at absolutely NO FAULT of you!), which validates my thought that I'm probably going to have to pay someone (a shop) to help me build my Stroker if I go that way... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted April 21, 2008 Share Posted April 21, 2008 I am just starting my second stroker. Key points are keep the CR under 9.0 - 9.25 so you can run lower octane fuel and make sure your quench is not too far off the factory specs. Something under 0.085. If you stick to these two rules you should have a nice reliable non detonating jeep.Educate yourself about the engine you are building, check stuff yourself or make sure you get a good machine shop who will check everything, deck height, piston dish cc, head thickness etc no point in shaving 20 thou off a block that has already been cut. You will be in big trouble really fast. I also wouldn't do more than a +.030 cylinder overbore. The 4.0 starts to run a little hot at +.060. (Been there) and you are out of options if something happens and you score a bore. Also IMHO stick with factory cam, if you want to improve the breathing port the head. It will get you nearly the same results. Over and out. Excellent summation. Building a stroker yourself requires LOTS of homework and education. I left it to the experts, and opted for the crate 4.5L Hesco stroker, bored .030 over, factory RV-O-B cam, and the ported head. Excellent streetability, tons of HP and torque, and backed with the best reputation and guarantee in the country. Three years later w. zero problems, no lessons learned the hard way, to moi it's the only way to go. Ain't cheap though............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted April 21, 2008 Share Posted April 21, 2008 Check out www.JeepStroker.com for a lot of good info on doing it. Really? ...maybe I'm missing it... other than the chick in the Bikini and a couple engine blocks that someone is trying to sell (Titan I assume), I didn't see the "good info" you mentioned... :chillin: Sorry...I am very tired from 4 days of camping & wheelin'. There should be another "S" on the end. Try this... www.JeepStrokers.com ;) The other link was from a place in Ocala, so I thoughtmaybe there was some inside sales deal you were trying to pimp... :eek: Just kidding... Thanks for the other link! :cheers: I didn't know that the other site existed, but it ends up being Titan Engines in Ocala...quite the coincidence 8) . I have not tried to build one myself either just because of all the details as explained here. I will likely opt for the paying someone to do it or just buying one already done when I am ready. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted April 23, 2008 Share Posted April 23, 2008 I am glad some one brought this up... I just acquired a 258 donor.. and needless to say I have a few 4.0's around.. and a late model FI setup sitting around too.. Might be time for me to build one as well :nuts: Seriously.. go to your local drag strip or dirt track and find out who they use as a machine shop. Then go talk to them. If you have the tools, and can follow torque specs, You can assemble a motor. In my area to have a shop assemble a motor.. expect to pay 350-500 :eek: Lat time I had a motor bored over it was 13 bucks a cylinder.. now I believe the going rate is close to 20 :cry: Shaving heads .020 was 75 a set. Now I think it is considerably more. My point being talk to the machinist... bring your info with you, and discuss what you want. A guy in the club did one.. he was 2300 in the hole by the time his motor was done :nuts: which is a lot of cash to spend on a 6 banger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now