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Blower Motor Review: Four Seasons 75089, a worthy replacement!


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My original OEM AMC blower fan started making unpleasant squealing sounds and did not output much air on the lowest and second lowest fan setting. After removing the fan, I noticed it did not freewheel very much. A simple hand spin would lead to a stopped fan in about 1/2 rotation. Not a good sign. The plastic blower wheel was also melted a bit across 3 fan blades, indicating there was another problem along the 37 year life span. The rubber air tube and blower surround gasket were still in great shape, which is pretty incredible.

 

I took the tube out and lubricated the rear bushing on the fan. The original fans use bushings, not the ever present ball-bearings of most modern day fans. Adding oil certainly helped, and with a hand spin, resulted in slightly more than a full turn before stopping. Still not a great result. It is possible this fan motor could go for another few years if I was able to get the plastic blower wheel off safely and properly disassemble and lubricate the fan, but I was not able to remove the blower wheel.

 

After looking around, there are a lot of replacement fans available. However, the designs are not consistent. 

 

  1. UAC BM00007c is a bad design, and features holes on the rear face of the motor, allowing water and debris to enter the rear of the fan. The hole for the air tube also looks too large, as stated by some reviews.
  2. TYC 700126 blower has a connector embedded into the motor housing and has the air hole clocked wrong, so the cooling tube will not reach.
  3. Unimotor 12474 looks like a worthy successor but does not include the plastic blower wheel or connector. I believe this is relabeled as a Four Seasons 35474.
  4. Four Seasons 75089 features a unimotor motor with the correct hole size for the rubber air tube and is sealed from the back like the original fan. I believe this kit uses the above unimotor 12474 and just adds a blower wheel. Luckily, autozone still sells this fan and it seems readily available.

 

Plastic Blower Motor Wheel: Four Seasons 35534, BW9334, BW2098, 7135534, 70102. These should all be the same.

 

Comparison of the new 75089 fan vs OEM:

-0.5in shorter in height

-No gasket included
-Same connector as stock
-Correct 19mm air hole diameter, correct location
-Same 3in height blower fan
-Same 6in dia blower fan
-Blower fan Held on by crush washer instead of spring clamp
-stock blower wheel: 32 blade
-New fan blower wheel: 44 blade
Includes Canadian Maple Syrup :beerchug:

 

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I’ve been using this blower motor for several years and it works excellent. Also has less current draw than stock. I don’t recall the numbers but iirc, it was about 30% lower amp draw with at least equal if not higher airflow. 

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2 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said:

I’ve been using this blower motor for several years and it works excellent. Also has less current draw than stock. I don’t recall the numbers but iirc, it was about 30% lower amp draw with at least equal if not higher airflow. 

Very, ahemm, cool! :laugh:

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Thanks, glad to see this post!  I am pretty sure mine is going to need replaced sometime soon.  I replaced the thermal resistor block about 6 months ago when I lost all but high speed.  With the new resistor block I got back all 4 speeds, but lately I have to switch to high, or high-1 to get it started, then I can dial it down and still get the slower speeds.  And sometime the fan gets a little noisy for a while when I start it, but not that often (yet)!  So, it's on the list.

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  • 2 weeks later...
59 minutes ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said:

Mine is getting worse, so I looked to purchase Four Seasons 75089.  The part images for Napa, Auto Zone as well as lots on Ebay all have one thing in common, none of the images show the existence of this hole.  Can anyone explain?

 

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This pic is straight from AutoZone. It does show the hole. You just have to look close, it is on the left side of the sticker close to the wires.10

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My replacement blower motor is supposed to arrive soon, possibly today.  So I'll ask some proactive replacement questions.

 

1.  I assume I will have to remove the coolant reservoir and the tray it sets on to get access?

  1a. Is the tray just bolted on?

2. If the old gasket is bad, any replacement already identified?

3. If the hose is bad, any replacement already identified?

 

Thanks in advance!

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  1. You will need to remove the coolant reservior, but you don't need to disconnect any hoses. You simply undo the strap and tilt it toward the engine, out of the way. The tray is held on by (2) 10mm hex head self-tapping sheet metal screws. You will also need to remove the little air vent or temp sensor screwed into the passenger side back inside fender. It helps if it's out of the way. 10mm hex head again.
  2. I believe the gasket still exists, but my for seasons part from autozone did not come with a new one. My old one had no cracks and not even dry rot, so I cleaned it off with fantastik or simple green and reinstalled it. Watch out for those metal insert washers. they are formed in a cup shape. Don't lose those. It's easy to do so in the engine bay.
  3. I do not know if this hose part still exists so be gentle with it. I cleaned mine with simple green and it cleaned up just fine.
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I did some internet searching and didn't find the gasket or the hose :(,  I'll just have to be as careful as I can to not cause any damage myself.  I've been planning on replacing the reservoir anyway because might is bloated, so I may just do it now anyway.

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2 hours ago, Salvagedcircuit said:

You will also need to remove the little air vent or temp sensor screwed into the passenger side back inside fender. It helps if it's out of the way. 10mm hex head again

Is this what you are referring to?  I'm a little afraid to remove this nut without knowing what's on the other side and where it's going to go once I remove the nut.  This is the only other thing I can see near the fan.

 

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Success :beerchug:.  Old blower out, new blower in, nice and quiet!  I thought I was in trouble when I first applied power (switch ON but didn't start up the engine) cause air would only flow through the defrost vents, so I thought I broke a vacuum line.  But on inspection I didn't see any breaks where I was working, then it dawned on me to start the engine to re-pull the vacuum, and then all was good.  Whew!  I decided to try it without disconnecting the coolant reservoir as @Salvagedcircuit suggested and sure enough the tank could be pulled out of the way enough to do the swap without disconnecting the hoses, nice!

 

Now on to my car repair, the Jeep gets most of my attention, but the car gets some attention from time to time.

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