The Guamster - 5.3LS Longbed

[Yellowoctupus]

About a year ago.... (2/24) my wife received orders to Naval Base Guam (deploying 12/24).  We've been moving our fleet of cars around with us (more or less) for almost 20 years, so we finally decided to trim down the list to 1 car each.  So, instead of choosing one to keep that I already had on the road, running driving, I very reasonably decided to sell everything and build up a V8 stick shift street truck to have road worthy before deployment.  (To do so, I sold my '98 4.0 AX15/4wd swapped Cherokee, my 5.9L '55 Willys Wagon and my Supercharged 4.6DOHC swapped '78 280z.  Some say I'm nuts.  The others just silently shake their heads....)

 

Anyways, I picked up a reasonably clean 1987 Long Bed, 2WD, 4.0 with the BA10 5sp.  It barely ran, floors were gone, but other than the floors, it had very little rust.  I got it from the 2nd owner who purchased it on 1988 with 1300mi on it, using it from then on as a 'shop truck' running parts and tires between his two tire shops on the Cape in Massachusetts. I got it at about 100k as it's been off the road since 1999. 

 

Coming home from the Jeep Dealership.  (Not actually purchased from this dealership, but it was a BRAND NEW dealership, and right across the road from where I picked it up, so I couldn't resist the shot.) 

 

 

Unloaded, made it home safe and sound. The Cherokees make reasonably good towing vehicles when equipped with a good trailer brake controller and a quality weight distribution hitch. 

 

[89 MJ]

Welcome! @ghetdjc320 has spent time in Guam. 

[Yellowoctupus]

Dragged home this beaut of a '05 Colorado just for the 5 speed.  The Aisin AR5 is supposedly similar to an AX-15, but it's a newer version, and can handle quite a bit of abuse.  The truck was fairly rust free, with the exception of the frame, which came with free rust.  It slowly creaked in half while I had it on the jackstands.  Made a spooky sound.  Sold the engine, and everything else I could to end up with a $0 transmission. 

[Yellowoctupus]

Quote

Welcome! @ghetdjc320 has spent time in Guam. 

89 MJ, I saw some of his posts a while back, especially in regards to his tailgate straightening project.  I'll have to look him up! PS, my Dad had a 1940 Chevy pickup that was in the family since '40.  He lost it 2yrs ago when the barn burned down.  What a bummer that was.  He did end up with my '55 Willys though, so he's got a project to keep him busy in the wintertime!  

 

[89 MJ]

8 minutes ago, Yellowoctupus said:

89 MJ, I saw some of his posts a while back, especially in regards to his tailgate straightening project.  I'll have to look him up! PS, my Dad had a 1940 Chevy pickup that was in the family since '40.  He lost it 2yrs ago when the barn burned down.  What a bummer that was.  He did end up with my '55 Willys though, so he's got a project to keep him busy in the wintertime!  

 

That’s a shame that the truck is gone with the family significance. Mine was a truck my grandpa started, but didn’t get a chance to finish. I think they’re one of the best looking pickups ever. Glad he ended up with your Willys. 

[ghetdjc320]

1 hour ago, Yellowoctupus said:

89 MJ, I saw some of his posts a while back, especially in regards to his tailgate straightening project.  I'll have to look him up! PS, my Dad had a 1940 Chevy pickup that was in the family since '40.  He lost it 2yrs ago when the barn burned down.  What a bummer that was.  He did end up with my '55 Willys though, so he's got a project to keep him busy in the wintertime!  

 

Welcome aboard! Yep, I’ve been on Guam several years now. Let me know if you have any questions I might be able to help with 

[Yellowoctupus]

PS. This build log might jump around a little bit with random part numbers and photos tossed in more for my future use than anyone else's amusement.  

 

I was able to retain the stock driveshaft, by purchasing an extended length driveshaft yoke as the stock yoke didn't have enough engagement in the transmission.  GM TH350's and a slew of other transmissions including the AR5 share the same slip yoke / output shaft splines, so I got this one from eBay (Mako-Driveshafts)  

description: "2-3-6081X 8.000" Length extended Trans Slip Yoke 1310 series 1.176 x 27 Spline"  The spline sliding interface isn't as smooth as an oem yoke, but it's acceptable.  I think the stock Colorado yoke is 6", so this gives you 2" extra without having to have a new driveshaft made. 

 

The Jeep OEM driveshaft for the 2wd longbed is really weird.  It's got some sort of a rubber vibration isolator captured between two tubes??? Can't say I'v e ever seen one like this before. Hopefully it holds up for me. 

 

 

[Yellowoctupus]

11 minutes ago, ghetdjc320 said:

Welcome aboard! Yep, I’ve been on Guam several years now. Let me know if you have any questions I might be able to help with 

Thanks!  I'll send you a PM sometime.  (or likewise, feel free to send me one!)

[Yellowoctupus]

Prior to purchasing this MJ, I looked at a few other MJs including an LS swap that got started.  He sold me the Novak mounts which bolted right up, and worked nicely. Novak does offer a lot of parts for the swap (including a $700 radiator!! ), but the motor mounts are all I used. All other parts used for the project are as OEM as possible for easy parts replacement, or 'non-wear' custom parts, like fuel rails, AC lines, braided fuel lines, etc. 

 

LS engine rundown:

 

- Engine Started with an '02 Silverado 5.3.  It appeared to be in VERY dubious condition ( I think it sat outside uncovered for a long time), so I bought a 2nd engine, an aluminum blocked '05 5.3 from a Trailblazer SS.  Unfortunately it's got GM's Active Fuel Management, but hopefully that doesn't give me issues.  It's a known problematic design.

 

- Truck intake's too tall unless you chop into your hood or run a cowl.  I found an LS1 intake on Marketplace, PN 1256333.  They're surprisingly expensive, but this one came with a set of Racetronix fuel rails, and ARP intake screws for the same price as other bare intakes, so it was a good deal in the end. 

 

- '02 injectors (used OEM 25317628)  Interesting story, I ORIGINALLY purchased some 'reman' OEM injectors from fuelinjectors-shop on eBay, but they ended up being brand new China knockoffs.  I submitted a claim and eBay immediately refunded my $.  Normally I check feedback but had forgotten.  This business had a LOT of negative reviews with this exact issue. Poor quality injectors, flowed all different, or stuck open, etc.    

 

- Fuel Rails, Racetronix, as are most of the -6 AN fittings on the build. Quality is good enough, price good, shipping fast, and they also had a few 'conversion' fittings I used to go from the OEM Jeep fuel lines.  Fuel pressure regulator is in a housing made by Radium.  Really cool piece, and it uses OEM Bosch regulators.  Non-adjustable, and not SUPER high flow but there's no custom wear parts/diaphragms to go bad or that are hard to find when they do. PN 20-0014, Bosch 4Bar (60psi) regulator PN 0280160575. Mounts directly to the rail. 

 

- ECU '02 Silverado ECU reprogrammed with a 4.8L Manual base tune ( as there wasn't a 5.3 manual offered) Using Universal Patcher and PCM Hammer to read and alter the ECU program.  Not terribly difficult but a bit of a learning curve if you don't do it often. Cleaned up entire harness (time consuming, but in the end worth it) bought a book to help determine wiring but after finding a few mistakes, ended up using the charts over at LT1swap.com  https://lt1swap.com/1999-02pcmpinouts.pdf  

 

- '02 Silverado DBC throttle body, 2002 Silverado cable.  Had to SLIGHTLY open up the firewall hole with a step-bit.  Otherwise it fit perfectly.  Also, I had to make / adapt a custom mount at the throttle body. 

 

- Cooling System - Stock "1994" Jeep radiator, custom stainless steel lower crossover tube, currently 1 OEM Jeep fan.  I'm expecting I'll have to add a 2nd fan later.  Bought a Matco vacuum bleeder to eliminate air pockets, retained front steam vents, which I plumbed into a splice connector.  Instrument panel gauge's coolant temp sensor is also screwed into the connector. Upper hose is a 4.0 stock upper, lower two are 90° 1.5" ID.  PNs Gates 20267 and 20065.  Cheap on Rockauto.  Water pump is from a 200x truck.  GM PN:xxxxxxx

 

- Motor mounts - Novak

 

- Belt System - manually tensioned alternator, Bando 580205 tensioner pulley. Belt PN xxxxxxx.

 

- Alternator '05 Trailblazer (145a or 160a, don't remember which)

 

- Power Steering Pump '02 Silverado.  Pulley was too large and hit power steering lines at the box, so I used the '05 trailblazer pulley.  I did have to space the pump back however to get this to work, and abandoned the rear 1 bolt stabilizer mount.  Original leaked, so I replaced it with a parts store version (Napa or Oreillys?)  Even after bleeding it it sounds really loud.  Fingers crossed it works some more air out or something, as it's not confidence inspiring.  Also hard to check PS fluid level as the alternator's in the way.  I may tee into the return line with a clear section to make checking level/filling easier. 

 

- Exhaust manifolds - eBay China swap cast (steel/iron??) manifolds.  They came with crappy fiber gaskets at the head, so re-used my cleaned up OEM MLS gaskets, and the collector gasket they supplied was a rubber o-ring.  REALLY???  I purchased a few 'metal oring' style gaskets, and found one that works PERFECTLY in the groove they give you. MAHLE - F32568.  These manifolds fit REALLY well. I did have to dent in the passenger's frame rail a little bit, but it was not bad at all.  

 

 

 

- Oil Pan - 02 Silverado, and pickup tube as well.  Clears the front axle fine.  

 

 

[Yellowoctupus]

Placeholder for transmission/driveline.

[Yellowoctupus]

Placeholder for electrical/wiring.

[Yellowoctupus]

Placeholder for AC.

[Yellowoctupus]

Placeholder for other accessories. (air system, cap/seal, etc).

[GonzoTheGreat]

11 hours ago, Yellowoctupus said:

 

Those decals are sick!!!

 

this sounds like the start of a really great build. I’m looking forward to seeing it all come together!

[Yellowoctupus]

Quote

Those decals are sick!!!

They're actually hand painted! I'm going to try to very carefully clear coat the doors to keep the paint from coming off any more than it already has.  If you wash them, some white comes off.  I do want to keep the advertising on there for now, probably right at the end of the hand painted era.

[89 MJ]

I like the way you’re setting this thread up. That’ll make it a lot easier for others wanting to reference this thread. What are you running for accessory brackets?

[ghetdjc320]

If you're planning to bring this truck to Guam, here are a few suggestions that may help:

 

1st. Cooling system needs to be simply the best you can get - Double jeep e fans don't cut it and neither do the cheaper triple fan setups (been there done that). The air here is stifling and you simply need the capacity to shed enough BTU's. You need a thick radiator core and lots of CFM. I'd look for a radiator core thickness at least a full 2" thick at a minimum. OEM radiators will not cut it. The Novak unit, Griffin, Cold case ect. all make units that could work. 

2nd. You need A/C. 

3rd. See 2nd 

4th. The amount of salt in the air here is epic. Like far more than those in Florida or HI typiclly see. The salt, sun and moisture here kills everything in short order. Get rid if the rust under the windshield glass in the frame and back glass. POR 15 is your friend here. Also make sure all of your seals are in tip top shape and replace as needed. Unfortunately, the sun here will destroy rubber trim and your paint in short order. If you do decide to paint your truck, use a base/clear and get at least 3 layers of clear on there to protect the base as long as possible. For reference, I apply high end solvent-based ceramic coating to my WRX every 6 months. That is the same stuff that should last 3+ years stateside. No joke, the UV here is extremely intense. Use 316 stainless fasteners when you can and add some copper anti-seize to every fastener possible, especially around suspension components. Just keep in mind that this island is a one way destination for most any mechanical items (RIP). You'll find endless amounts of broken down vehicles and equipment here both on base and off (unfortunately not salvageable). Hopefully you will have covered parking, consider that a necessity if you have BAH and are looking for a place.

 

Most auto parts here are for Japanese vehicles (the Tacoma and 4runner reign supreme here) though there is a decent assortment of basic domestic vehicle parts. The auto shop on NBG is quite worthless. Always broken down equipment or short staffed and closed. Head to Andersen for the auto shop. They still have occasional staffing issues but have a much better facility. Plenty of auto enthusiast on island though. Keep in mind that the island wide speed limit is 35 and traffic can be quite bad. Save some funds for getting on the water. That is really where it's at . 

 

Keep in mind that the Comanche is a great eye catcher on island, but will have a limited resale value if you decide to sell there as most people will not know what it is. Conversely, you can easily sell a Tacoma or Gladiator here for more than you purchased it if maintained. Hopefully this info is helpful as the build progresses 

[Yellowoctupus]

Quote

I like the way you’re setting this thread up. That’ll make it a lot easier for others wanting to reference this thread.

Thanks.  In the past I've done the day by day build logs, but as long as I can edit the 'old' posts for a while, it will be easier than scrolling through pages and pages of updates to find details like part numbers, etc.  How long do they stay editable?

 

Quote

If you're planning to bring this truck to Guam, here are a few suggestions that may help:

Truck's here!  Paint is as-is at the moment.  That will be a 'someday' project.  Which as you mention, may end up being sooner than later with the salt in the air.  I did use some Rustoleum around the windshield area, as there was some surface rust when I removed the old, cracked glass.

 

We're focusing our house hunt on places with a 2 car garage, so hopefully it'll be stored inside most of the time. I'm not planning on selling this one; hopefully it will be a long term daily driver/project.  

 

Radiator, I'm going to give it a go with the stock radiator for now.  Hopefully it turns out to be ok, if not I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. 

 

AC, I tried REALLY hard to get it straightened out before I got here, but apparently I now need to replace the evaporator which means pulling the dash apart.  FOR LIKE THE 50th TIME.  But I have an evaporator coming with the rest of our household goods in a few months.  

[89 MJ]

50 minutes ago, Yellowoctupus said:

Thanks.  In the past I've done the day by day build logs, but as long as I can edit the 'old' posts for a while, it will be easier than scrolling through pages and pages of updates to find details like part numbers, etc.  How long do they stay editable?

They are editable forever

[Yellowoctupus]

13 minutes ago, 89 MJ said:

They are editable forever

Awesome. IMO how all forums should be to fix errors and omissions, but... they're not.  

[fiatslug87]

29 minutes ago, Yellowoctupus said:

Awesome. IMO how all forums should be to fix errors and omissions, but... they're not.  

Another reason this is THE BEST forum!

[ghetdjc320]

2 hours ago, Yellowoctupus said:

AC, I tried REALLY hard to get it straightened out before I got here, but apparently I now need to replace the evaporator which means pulling the dash apart.  FOR LIKE THE 50th TIME.  But I have an evaporator coming with the rest of our household goods in a few months.  

Oh, thats awesome it's already on island! I'm off island for a few more weeks but will definitely have to do a Comanche takeover at some point. You may see my old Comanche driving around there from time to time too.

 

If they told you on island that the evaporator is bad, that is literally what they tell everyone. Of course if you're sure it has gone bad, at least you're familiar with the removal process . 

[Yellowoctupus]

Yeah.....so one of the lines stuck to the tube nut when I went to remove the old expansion valve block and twisted it right around, before I realized what was happening.  It's bad.  I'll post up a photo sometime.  No bueno.