Mildly Rough Clutch Pedal

[White_Comanche]

I'd like to know what I'm up against in the future, because I may tackle this project if what I have could become more of an issue.

 

I have noticed that sometimes my clutch pedal feels a bit rough (not entirely smooth) when pressing down on it. To remedy this, my solution has been squirting on some lube onto the clutch Push Rod at the Dust Boot. This stop-gap has worked fairly well. One application was effective for most of the summer. Just this past weekend I got my pickup out, and had to apply again. The pedal was only smooth for about a day (maybe because it's now cold and winter).

 

All the metal moving parts, and the spring of the clutch pedal assembly are thoroughly lubed as well.

 

Transmission is A-OK, and was recently rebuilt a few years ago. There is no "chattering" going on either... just a clutch pedal with subtle, but noticeable roughness.

 

• 1986 2.5L 5-Speed

 

 

[eaglescout526]

Have you taken apart your master cylinder to investigate? I wouldn’t be surprised if the internals are rusting. 

[AZJeff]

7 hours ago, eaglescout526 said:

Have you taken apart your master cylinder to investigate? I wouldn’t be surprised if the internals are rusting. 

Agreed.  The rod itself only really has contact with the rubber dust boot, which provides almost no friction.  The piston and its seals in the mast. cyl. bore, however, will drag massively if the bore or piston are corroded.

[White_Comanche]

Guys, no I have not taken apart my Master Cylinder. It probably hasn't been touched in a very long time.

 

I'm a bit apprehensive of bleeding hydraulic fluid because I've not done anything like that before.

 

Would I be able to remove the internal components of the cylinder (spring, plunger, misc bits) from the interior? The 1989 FSM has a section labeled Clutch Cylinder Overhaul, and gives a fairly detailed step by step.

 

Wondering if this would be worth the time, or just go full-hog and purchase an entirely new master cylinder. That would obviously require bleeding, however.

[eaglescout526]

32 minutes ago, White_Comanche said:

I'm a bit apprehensive of bleeding hydraulic fluid because I've not done anything like that before.

It’s brake fluid and it’s pretty easy. Main goal is to have all the air out and any fittings that could let air in addressed and sealed. 
 

 

32 minutes ago, White_Comanche said:

Would I be able to remove the internal components of the cylinder (spring, plunger, misc bits) from the interior? The 1989 FSM has a section labeled Clutch Cylinder Overhaul, and gives a fairly detailed step by step.

You could, might be more of a pain than taking it out. You have the easier set up where the bolts are sideways vs the later where it’s an over under set up. 
 

 

34 minutes ago, White_Comanche said:

Wondering if this would be worth the time, or just go full-hog and purchase an entirely new master cylinder. That would obviously require bleeding, however.

In my opinion, yes. But seeing how yours is the 84-86 style, i dont know who the OEM manufacture is for that one so this is up to you. Me personally I’d like to just inspect it and see what your up against. Worse comes to worse you get it apart and the bore is pitted to where it’s no longer gonna seal properly, then you’ll get a new one. I think I’ve got one or two of that master cylinder style from the PO of my XJ who went on this rampage to have a stiff clutch pedal. 

[White_Comanche]

I've decided to replace my Clutch Cylinder with a NOS part in the future. I'd like to know which part number to go with... or will both of these work:

 

While searching Mopar Parts Giant with my truck — 1986 Jeep Comanche 2.5L — it comes up with #52000068. Link is down below.

 

However, when I called up my local Chrysler dealership, they came up with #53001163 when they entered the last 8 digits of my VIN.

 

https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-cylinder-master-clutch-hyd~52000068.html?vin=&make=Jeep&model=Comanche&year=1986&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=()

[eaglescout526]

I honestly don’t see much of a difference at all. 

[White_Comanche]

Alright, thanks Eagle. Good to know it doesn't matter which one.

[eaglescout526]

The only difference I can speculate is one is just an 84-85 XJ part number and the other is the 86 XJ/MJ combo. But I don’t know for certain. 

[White_Comanche]

I'm torn between the two myself, but that XJ/MJ combo sounds logical. If my mind doesn't change I'm leaning towards the #53001163. The guy at the dealership said that is the one he would go for.

 

Question: the NOS I've found never shows the plastic reservoir cup... always just the screw cap. Would I use my current cup on the new one?

 

https://hkresale.com/products/mopar-53001163-master-cylinder-for-brakes-genuine-oem-new-nos-made-by-girling-7

https://www.ebay.com/itm/285386860132

 

[eaglescout526]

So according to my 84-85 parts book, the 0068 is for the 84 all engines and 85 4cyl

1163 is for the 85 diesel and GM 6. 

Then in 86 the 1163 is for all engines.

Your call, didnt see a difference according to either book.

[eaglescout526]

46 minutes ago, White_Comanche said:

Would I use my current cup on the new one?

No, as far as I have seen, the 84-86 masters have had that style where it was a cap over the reservoir.

[White_Comanche]

22 hours ago, eaglescout526 said:

according to my 84-85 parts book...

Great information. Appreciate you looking up the numbers in your books.

 

Spent the afternoon on a side MJ project, but wanted to put an eye on my clutch cylinder. I was presuming all along that mine was original, but clearly it's aftermarket. Looks like some knucklehead in the past used a pair of pliers to remove and tighten this fitting... instead of a flare nut wrench. 

 

Thankfully there's just enough meat left that it can be turned with the proper wrench. Hopefully.

 

I'll get a cylinder ordered and will complete this project sometime soon.

 

[eaglescout526]

Yikes. Love it when folks don’t even try to use the right tool to get something off. Oh well. Hopefully you get it off. If not there’s still a line out there that’s made. 

[White_Comanche]

@eaglescout526

 

Initially, I had plans only to replace my clutch cylinder. But I know there's a leak somewhere, because I need to top off the reservoir every once in a while.

 

Later this summer I plan to replace my entire clutch hydraulic system (clutch master, slave cylinder & the hydraulic line that connects the two).

 

Got under the vehicle today and got a visual on everything. Think I should be able to tackle this.

 

I own an official M.R. 277 manual for this 1986. I'm curious of what the manual says is the correct way of bleeding. Quote from the book is below:

 

BLEEDING PROCEDURE

• (raise vehicle and fill reservoir)

• Remove the slave cylinder from the clutch cover housing and remove the push rod

• Compress the slave cylinder plunger using tool J-24420-A or equivalent

• (after this do the standard half-filled bottle bleeding procedure)

 

Do I need to have the slave removed and somehow compressed to properly bleed the system... or can I have the part installed beforehand?

 

 

 

[eaglescout526]

1 minute ago, White_Comanche said:

Do I need to have the slave removed and somehow compressed to properly bleed the system... or can I have the part installed beforehand?

You can bleed it the traditional way. It’s tough to open the bleeder from the slave with the trans in position but I found it’s easy if you remove the crossmember and lower the trans and bleed it that way. But still doable the traditional way. Now I never really studied the procedure and I’m sure it works really really well with the tool but I don’t own the tool so I can’t say. 

[White_Comanche]

Yes, found out there's not much working room. A bit awkward really. A 10mm box end fits over that valve. I thought about getting something like this to help bleed the system. It's a brake bleeder wrench with a tube attached. There's a few styles of these around. Both with internal and external check valves. They create a positive seal apparently. A wrench like this could work in that tight space.

 

I'm thinking of buying a NOS Mopar slave to keep things OEM. When looking at that bleeder valve it seems like it's just a threaded fitting. Is it simply loosening up the fitting until fluid begins to flow?

 

I may ask about lowering the transmission in the future. I haven't done something like that before.

 

[eaglescout526]

Yeah it’s pretty simple to loosen the valve and let fluid flow. 
 

I forget who makes the slave cylinders at the moment and I’d tell ya who is a reliable brand if they still make them. 

[watchamakalit]

If your plan is to replace the entire system you might want to look into the possibility of buying a complete setup already assembled and bled. I don't know if it's available still, or for your model.  But when I replaced my external slave system they were. Kinda nice to have a factory assembly. 

[Eagle_SX4]

I have an external slave AX15 that I bled using the slave cylinder and it worked quite well. My slave cylinder doesn't have a bleed screw so I had to do it this way. 

 

I followed the directions as indicated.

1 hour ago, White_Comanche said:

 

BLEEDING PROCEDURE

• (raise vehicle and fill reservoir)

• Remove the slave cylinder from the clutch cover housing and remove the push rod

• Compress the slave cylinder plunger using tool J-24420-A or equivalent

• (after this do the standard half-filled bottle bleeding procedure)

 

I did not have any special tools I just used push rod. When bleeding the system this way just make sure to not fully depress or release the pushrod and just cycle it in and out until there are no more bubbles coming up into the reservoir. (You may need someone to watch the reservoir).

 

It is super easy and this is how I will bleed every external slave cylinder going forward.

[eaglescout526]

18 minutes ago, watchamakalit said:

don't know if it's available still, or for your model.

It’s not. This is the 84-86 set up that is in individual pieces.