cruiser54 Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 Use Freeze-Off as a penetrant and the line wrenches mentioned above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 7 minutes ago, Salvagedcircuit said: It looks like you already soaked them in penetrant, but make sure to use brake line wrenches. They do provide a lot more leverage on those tiny annoying brake line fittings. AGREED. I HIGHLY recommend that you use what is called a "flare nut wrench" on those fittings if they are the least bit rusty. Also, some heat from a propane torch will help loosen the rust as well. Some people get all worked up about using heat near a brake line, since brake fluid is theoretically combustible, but I have never had any issues. Then again, I am not applying heat to such a degree as to cause things to get cherry red or melt, either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 Why are the guys from Arizona giving advice on dealing with rust? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GonzoTheGreat Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 2 minutes ago, cruiser54 said: Why are the guys from Arizona giving advice on dealing with rust? Because those of us from the rusty parts know there is no hope for that fitting... But really, a flare nut wrench makes a big difference preventing stripped fittings. You can always resort to vice grips, but that's not a pretty ending. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 Heat works well. Heat it up and let it cool. Then, put a wrench on it. flare wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salvagedcircuit Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 53 minutes ago, cruiser54 said: Why are the guys from Arizona giving advice on dealing with rust? Hahaha, funny indeed. Flare nut wrench escaped my mind . The fittings on mine my master cylinder were rounded over, but the flare nut wrench made all the difference. I ended up replacing all the fittings anyways because my lines were shot, but its definitely an invaluable tool to have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kook911 Posted February 2 Author Share Posted February 2 1 hour ago, Salvagedcircuit said: It looks like you already soaked them in penetrant, but make sure to use brake line wrenches. They do provide a lot more leverage on those tiny annoying brake line fittings. Thanks for the heads up. I didn’t know there was such a wrench. I will go buy a set and report back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickS Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 @cruiser54 Is it possible for you to post pictures of your setup? I am looking at upgrading my booster to a WJ dual diaphragm and while I'm doing that I figured id remove the load sensing valve and run new front/rear brake lines. Sounds like I should remove the MJ prop valve while I'm at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 Are your brake lines trashed front and rear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickS Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 (edited) Not necessarily... Flare nuts on front are rusty, passenger is completely rounded, driver is on its way. I am in process of installing a lift, so I need extended soft lines. Instead of dealing with the flare nuts I decided it might be easier to run new lines. Figured id do rear at the same time. I'm not a very experienced mechanic but I just can't help but think these 36 year old brake lines could use replacing. Edited February 24 by NickS additional information Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 Replace them then. You're only gonna be running one to the rear rather than the original two lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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