garrett6410 Posted May 26, 2023 Share Posted May 26, 2023 ok ive replaced the blower motor resistor, the blower control switch and replaced the motor also checked the fuse and rewired the blower control switch plug mine was melted it also doesn't have a broken ground by no means its showing a constant voltage no matter what setting i put it on say when i put it on the 2nd knob it will show 11.8v then when i put it on high it shows 12.5v which is plenty to run a 12v motor. i also thought maybe it has a bad ground it does not being i am testing each side of the plug with my meter so I'm truly lost on what could be next i heard a guy say there was something behind the dash but what is behind the dash that could need replaced not to mention the name of it. any help would be well appreciated so please feel free to comment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 26, 2023 Share Posted May 26, 2023 what procedure are you using to check the ground strength? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted May 26, 2023 Share Posted May 26, 2023 What problem are you having? Does the blower motor not work at all or..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garrett6410 Posted May 27, 2023 Author Share Posted May 27, 2023 4 hours ago, gogmorgo said: What problem are you having? Does the blower motor not work at all or..? the blower won't work at all no matter what setting I'm using its weird for sure but its got power to the plug on the car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garrett6410 Posted May 27, 2023 Author Share Posted May 27, 2023 4 hours ago, Pete M said: what procedure are you using to check the ground strength? i stuck my meters prongs in the ends of the plug thats permanent on the car it might be a bad ground but idk where to look for it if you wanna direct me where the ground for the blower is ill clean it first thing in the morning and ill update if it fixs the issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 27, 2023 Share Posted May 27, 2023 follow Cruiser54's renix tips and add an additional ground right by the blower. this should be done by everyone even if they aren't currently having troubles. should be one of the first links in the link in my signature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted May 27, 2023 Share Posted May 27, 2023 Simply using a meter on its own isn't always the best bet. A test light is almost always better. You may well get 12.7V or 0Ω with your meter but it could be through a tiny little strand that can't carry enough current to be useful. An incandescent test light puts a small load on the circuit. You can use it to check for supplied power by connecting the clip to ground and probing where you want to find power, and you can test your ground by clipping to positive and probing your ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garrett6410 Posted May 27, 2023 Author Share Posted May 27, 2023 13 minutes ago, gogmorgo said: Simply using a meter on its own isn't always the best bet. A test light is almost always better. You may well get 12.7V or 0Ω with your meter but it could be through a tiny little strand that can't carry enough current to be useful. An incandescent test light puts a small load on the circuit. You can use it to check for supplied power by connecting the clip to ground and probing where you want to find power, and you can test your ground by clipping to positive and probing your ground. thankyou for the tip did not know that about the test lights ill have to buy me one i always use meter because i always thought the lights wasnt as good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garrett6410 Posted May 27, 2023 Author Share Posted May 27, 2023 31 minutes ago, Pete M said: follow Cruiser54's renix tips and add an additional ground right by the blower. this should be done by everyone even if they aren't currently having troubles. should be one of the first links in the link in my signature. so add a ground and just splice it in right. does it matter where the ground is by chance i might put it on the bolts for the hood and ill sand the paint away so i know its got a good ground Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garrett6410 Posted May 27, 2023 Author Share Posted May 27, 2023 34 minutes ago, Pete M said: follow Cruiser54's renix tips and add an additional ground right by the blower. this should be done by everyone even if they aren't currently having troubles. should be one of the first links in the link in my signature. also if that don't fix it where do i go from there what would be the next thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted May 27, 2023 Share Posted May 27, 2023 One thing at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted May 27, 2023 Share Posted May 27, 2023 14 hours ago, garrett6410 said: thankyou for the tip did not know that about the test lights ill have to buy me one i always use meter because i always thought the lights wasnt as good Depends on what you’re doing. Some circuits you don’t want to load, in particular if you’re doing electronics work, where your test light could overload the circuit. Sometimes you’re looking at a poorly functioning circuit and using a meter to look for unwanted voltage drops, not really something you can do with a test light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 27, 2023 Share Posted May 27, 2023 a self-ranging multimeter is like having super powers. same with a non-contact voltage tester, but that's more about houses and not getting shocked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted May 27, 2023 Share Posted May 27, 2023 Clip that test light to the battery positive side and now you can check your ground circuits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garrett6410 Posted May 27, 2023 Author Share Posted May 27, 2023 2 hours ago, Pete M said: a self-ranging multimeter is like having super powers. same with a non-contact voltage tester, but that's more about houses and not getting shocked. i checked the ground it is good now i added a extra ground and when i hooked my light from hot to the ground the tester came on but when i hooked it to the ground to the green wire which is the hot it don't light up so its something to do with the hot wire, then i tried checking the resistor for power no power at the resistor on any of the prongs on the plug where would i go from there to the blower switch right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 28, 2023 Share Posted May 28, 2023 yup, track it back to the switch itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted May 28, 2023 Share Posted May 28, 2023 You might find this helpful. Even if not specifically for your year of truck the circuits for most body-related things are pretty similar, for the most part you’ll only run into different wire colours depending on year. I’ve used the manual for a bunch of things on my ‘91s. When you find the diagram for the path of power, note other components that are sharing the circuit. If you have power to those, your issue is going to be between where they tie in and the blower motor. If you have other things not working you might be able to trace the set back to a common point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garrett6410 Posted May 28, 2023 Author Share Posted May 28, 2023 37 minutes ago, Pete M said: yup, track it back to the switch itself. ok if no power to that switch then what do i do check behind fuse block? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 28, 2023 Share Posted May 28, 2023 the link in my signature might still have some active links to PDFs of the factory shop manuals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garrett6410 Posted May 28, 2023 Author Share Posted May 28, 2023 25 minutes ago, gogmorgo said: You might find this helpful. Even if not specifically for your year of truck the circuits for most body-related things are pretty similar, for the most part you’ll only run into different wire colours depending on year. I’ve used the manual for a bunch of things on my ‘91s. When you find the diagram for the path of power, note other components that are sharing the circuit. If you have power to those, your issue is going to be between where they tie in and the blower motor. If you have other things not working you might be able to trace the set back to a common point. i tried following a 92 wiring diagram and i replaced everything on the circuit only thing i did not replace was the climate control headunit the part with the switchs. i think the only shared part on it would be the ignition switch on top of the column and i replaced that recently like maybe a month or 2 ago so surely it aint went bad that quick i bought a standard brand switch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted May 28, 2023 Share Posted May 28, 2023 Anything else not work? Turn signals? Wipers? Radio? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garrett6410 Posted May 28, 2023 Author Share Posted May 28, 2023 10 minutes ago, cruiser54 said: Anything else not work? Turn signals? Wipers? Radio? all of that works like a charm its odd for sure thats why i wasnt leaning towards a new ignition switch but anything possible with this thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted May 28, 2023 Share Posted May 28, 2023 Replacing parts without knowing they’re bad can cause more problems than it solves. For one it’s expensive. But also new doesn’t mean working. It’s rare to get parts DOA but it does still happen. And if it does and you pulled a good part for a bad one, now you’ve got two problems to diagnose instead of just one. Start at one end and work your way along. I like to work my way back from the component until I find power, but working the other way is just as effective, so long as you can isolate a point where you do have power and one where you don’t, and can slowly narrow down where it is between them that the power stops. If a motor goes bad it can pull a lot of current which can burn a ton of stuff. Power starts at the ignition switch on the same circuit as the horn, wipers, etc. If that stuff’s working it’s improbable the ignition switch is part of the problem. It then goes from the ignition switch back to the blower fuse in the fuse panel. If you look at the back of the fuse you should be able to see two metal flecks sunk into the plastic. These are probe points so you can test the fuse without removing it. There’s one on either side of the fusible element, if you’ve got power on one side but not the other, it’s blown. Change it. Either it fixes the issue (yay) or it pops again in which case now you’ve got a short somewhere you need to track down. If you’ve got power on both sides, move on to the next point. If you’ve got no power on either side, pull the fuse back out and check for power at the fuse socket, should have power on one side of it. If not, you’ve got a broken connection somewhere between the ignition switch and the fuse. The next point is the vent selection switch. But I wouldn’t necessarily start disassembling the dash to get at it just yet. In basic principle there’s a switch that turns the blower motor to off when the vent slider is in the off position. In this position you should have power on one side of the switch but not the other. If you have no power here, work your way back to the last point. If you do have power, move the slider to another position, and check to see if you have gained power to the other side of the switch. If you did, move on, but if you did not, then this switch is an issue. I don’t know if it’s actually replaceable though, unfortunately, without replacing the whole control panel. You might be able to disassemble carefully and scrub it up or rebend contacts or something, I don’t know. But where I would actually start with the fan switches, the next element is the fan speed selection switch. This switch works in combination with the vent selector switch and blower motor resistor. The circuit is quite complex here. Honestly for quickest testing I would do it at the resistor pack connector. Because it’s easier to get to. At the connector you’ve got four pins. I won’t pretend to know which pin is which number, but going off the diagram. Pin 1: should be energized any time the vent selector is set to anything other than off. This is the input for the lowest fan speed. It sends power through all the resistors in the pack, and is the same circuit that goes straight to the fan speed selector switch. It should be energized in all fan speed positions. Pin 2: gets energized when the vent is set to not off and the fan is switched to speed 2. It bypasses some of the resistors resulting in higher voltage to the motor and higher fan speed. Pin 3: speed 3. Again it bypasses another resistor for higher voltage at the fan. Pin 6: clearly this resistor is part of a family with extra functions this version doesn’t have and pins 4 and five do other things just not here. Pin 6 is the feed to the blower motor. The resistor outlet if you will. If you jump power here it should kick on the blower motor at full speed, or at reduced speed if you hook your test light to positive and poke it. Because the light bulb in your test light after all is just a resistor that gets so hot it glows. But because fan speed 4, the highest speed, bypasses the resistor pack entirely, with the resistor unplugged you should still get the blower motor to come on, and you’ll find that pin 6 is energized when you do. I suspect it’s not the case because the blower doesn’t work at all and you should still have the lowest speed available to you even if it does go bad, but the selector switch is a replaceable component. OE part number is 8350 2719. There’s a few aftermarket suppliers. Hopefully this is enough you can figure it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted May 28, 2023 Share Posted May 28, 2023 Hallelujah!!^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garrett6410 Posted May 29, 2023 Author Share Posted May 29, 2023 Yall hape finally helped me figure out my Issue today I’m glad it’s working again. Unfortunately I gotta Buy a new ac deck sadly got to looking at the plug for the ac deck it looked fine then I looked at the prongs where it plugs in at one was severly burnt in color I cleaned it off and it works like a charm now so I’m gonna go pull one at the junkyard. First thing I checked was I'm fine it wad getting power at the blower switch then I unplugged it and noticed that immediatlt plugged it in checked for power it had power then I went to the resistlr it had power then I checked the blower plug itself she ʻlit up brighter than ever So I plugged in the motor bam it turned on on all 4 settings aswell. Yall are awesome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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