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Rear Speaker Brackets?


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Were there originally brackets as shown in this pic in our MJ's?

 

n69205416_31767312_3365.jpg

 

Mine has nothing... just holes where they pulled some speaker wire through for some box speakers that got tossed?

 

I plan on getting a new cheapy CD and new speakers F/R, but apparantly will need some new brackets to mouth the rear ones?

 

What about stock grills, or will I have room to mount the grills from the new ones on top of the interior trim?

 

Anyone have an extra set they are not using?

 

Thx

 

SW2

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Were there originally brackets as shown in this pic in our MJ's?

 

n69205416_31767312_3365.jpg

 

familiar pic ;)

 

 

note that's not a 3x4 like what's supposed to be mounted in there, but a 4" round speaker.

 

the rear speakers were an option with superior sound from factory, so yours must not have had that (hence it doesn't have the bracketry). I don't have a set because I used them unfortunately.

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That was the first Pic I found on short notice...

 

I guess one more thing to at to my WTB On the Classified Section...Maybe I should just make one and add/remove stuff as I get my requests filled...hmmmm

 

Wade

 

:D

 

those were my door speakers too...but I got a free and realllllly nice set of 6" speakers that I put in my doors, and I also didn't have rear speakers. love 'em.

 

adding 6x9 in the corners next, or ditching the 10" sub and going with 2 8" subs

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IMO, the rear speakers in an MJ, and just about any regular cab pickup for that matter, are near useless. The stock location will hold either a 4x6 or 4" round speaker. hi frequencies (treble) are directional, so being behind the seat and at floor level (i.e. behind and below your ears), 90% of the sound waves are literally just bouncing around back there. if you really wanted rear speakers, you could get components and put a 4" midrange down there and custom mount some tweeters in upper corners, either on the side, say above the seatbelt, or on the ceiling. i think you are better off putting a pair of 6x9s in boxes or some truck boxes w/8-10" woofers and a tweeter mounted on top and lay them on the floor. This way, at least the high frequencies are directed up. Don't forget to leave 6-8ft of extra speaker wire on this setup so you can pull them out and jam when you're tailgating!

 

Another option, and what I'm about to do in mine, is to just go with the door speakers and put a deditcated sub in the back. Bass frequencies are non-directional so it's ideal to do a sub back there. There are lots of ways you can do this, bazooka tube, truck boxes, etc. Door speakers are 5 1/4", but i am pretty sure you could put 6 1/2s w/out much trouble if you don't mind cutting your door panels and losing the stock look. If you put in a sub, depending on how adjustable it is, you probably want to put some low frequency "bass blockers" on your door speakers. This will eliminate a lot of the distortion from the small speakers trying to pump out bass when you crank it up.

 

I don't know if I just told you a bunch of stuff you knew or helped you out a little bit. Either way, here's my $1 worth!

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I guess I have the brackets after all... Will just need to dig up the Grills...

 

Thanks for the info "wahoosteeler"...I don't plan on the thing being a super bumping system... just need some noise to cover up the lifter noise :roll: I know it's not going to be a great sounding setup, but just need something in there that works.

 

Wade

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I plan on getting a new cheapy CD and new speakers F/R, but apparantly will need some new brackets to mouth the rear ones? SW2

 

I wanted a cheapy CD player too, and when the old cassette player finally went out, I looked around for a single DIN CD/AM/FM replacement unit. All the aftermarket heads had the crappy blue, purple, green, and red light displays which I hate. And detachable faceplates that I also hate. Found a Mitsubishi head on Ebay that fit in pretty well and wired it in. Used the old cassette player bracket and did not have to trim the dash bezel. Pretty cheap on FleaBay (less than $20) and sounds great. Any single DIN Mitsu 1997+ stand alone head will work.

 

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SW@, I was gonna say I was surprised the brackets were not there. Every car mfr I've ever seen always has all the brackets, bolt holes, etc etc on every body they stamp out, it's just whether or not the car is built with the options to utilize all of them.

 

I'm like you in that I'd like to spend as little as possible but have a decent sounding system in there, nothing super loud or obnoxious, those younger days are gone, ha! FYI though, there are a lot of pkg deals out there now from Wal-Mart to Crutchfield that have a single CD head unit with a pair of 5 1/4s or 6 1/2s with it for @$100. I've seen them in my search for a budget set up lately. Most of the decks are even "high powered" also, usually around 15-22 watts/channel. Now that's not enough to drive most subs if you go that direction for the back, but you can usually find a powered bazooka on ebay for under $100 also. Better yet, since you are not looking for a lot of kick, a 6 1/2" bazooka tube, NON-powered, will run fairly well on as little as 10 watts. So, you could probably run one of those off the rear channels from a high powered deck and get what you want out of it. I've seen the non-powered 6" and 8" zookas go for as little as $50 on ebay. So, you could probably get by with as little as $150 in to it. In addition, you still have a lot of flexibility for the future if you want, i.e. still add rear speakers in the stock mounts, add a bigger amp for the sub, go to "truck boxes", etc etc.

 

I will probably do something on mine in the next couple of weeks. I am probably gonna try the above set-up and see how it goes, I'll let you know how I think it sounds with whatever I do. Of course, stereo sound is probably one of the most individual preferences there is. Let me know whatever you do also!

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hmm... not to hijack or anything... i have a JBL amp and I'm going to be putting it in my truck soon and I'm wondering if some one cal tell me what "x over" "High level"mean? and on the other side where the outputs are there ar the connections for power. one says "rem" its a bit small. does this mean remote or am i delusional?

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hmm... not to hijack or anything... i have a JBL amp and I'm going to be putting it in my truck soon and I'm wondering if some one cal tell me what "x over" "High level"mean? and on the other side where the outputs are there ar the connections for power. one says "rem" its a bit small. does this mean remote or am i delusional?

 

 

What it means is when you switch t to high level it lets just the high freq. pass. you'll here the cymbals ring, and not the thump of a bass drum. rem is for remote and you hook it up to the power antenna on your head unit, or if your head unit has a remote wire, usually a blue wire. The remote turns your amps power on when the head unit turns on.

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hmm... not to hijack or anything... i have a JBL amp and I'm going to be putting it in my truck soon and I'm wondering if some one cal tell me what "x over" "High level"mean? and on the other side where the outputs are there ar the connections for power. one says "rem" its a bit small. does this mean remote or am i delusional?

 

that should be the power on wire from the head unit, just sends a signal to the amp to tell it to turn on when the head unit comes on.

 

i MIGHT be wrong but i think a cross over is like a highpass/lowpass filter in which case low pass would be for bass high for running 6x9s and other speakers. but like i said i'm not sure

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well that was quick.... alrigth lets see here. what is bridging exactly and when i hook it up do i need to worry about wires? i have speaker wire will this due for power and such?

 

bridging is when you hook one speaker up to your amp. is it 2 ohm stable?

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yeah i believe so 4 speakers at 80 watts 2 ohms

 

You sure 4 at 2 ohms? Man its been a long time since i've been into the audio loop...

 

ok try to get this right... 4 ch rated at 80 watts at 4 ohms ( I bet its 4 ohms with 4 ch)

that would be 160 watts bridged into 2 ch at 4 ohms

or 2 ch at 80 watts and one at 160 if it splits into 3 chs all at 4 ohms.

and 320 watts bridged mono. or 1 ch with 4 ohms

 

the way the speakers are wired ie.. two 4 ohm speakers wired into parallel will drop the ohms to 2 ohms.

series would add ohms .. two 4 ohm speakers = 8 ohm load.

 

if you wire your speakers parallel it would drop the ohms to 2 ohms but double the power

 

so... two 4 ohm in parallel will make your amp push 2 ohms at 640 watts bridged mono

but,,,, this produces ALOT of heat and heat kills electronics esp amps.

 

 

by the way

your x-over or cross over is it a round knob that you have to turn either + or -?

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Ok, here is my setup. I bought a package deal from walmart (sony xplod head unit 45wX4, 2 180w 6.5" speakers, and 2 250w 6x9" speakers) for 95$. I also bought a visonik 300w amp and 10" sub for 30$ from walmart also. I had the stock rear speakers and one grille (got cracked tho). Cut out bigger holes in the trim for the 6x9's and used some plywood for backings and black faux leather to cover them. Then made cutouts in the carpet of the doors for the 6.5's (fit pretty good with no cutting, some drilling required) The head unit came with a cage that mounts in the dash almost perfectly with all of the fitting tabs pushed out. I'll try to get some pics of my setup soon.

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