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Fuel pump?


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Possible, but other things may be affecting it. Using a fuel pressure gauge will tell you if that's what's happening. Could be something stuck in the regulator or clogged filter or clogged screen in the tank. A can of BG's 44K will usually clear up most of those symptoms, at least temporarily.

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I hooked up a gauge to the valve on the rail. The PSI is on spec with the vaccum hose on and off but I only did it while it was idling. The fuel filter is new. The truck just runs like crap from 1700 rpm. So I either have to lightly tap the gas or gun it. It's an automatic by the way. It just feels like it's not getting enough gas. By the way what's that stuff you said and where do I get it?

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:agree:

you may have dirty injectors. or a dirty air filter. i would say get injector cleaner and clen them out real good and see what happens. BUT, before you do anything run your tank of gas to empty and fill her up somewhere different, quite possible you have bad gas.

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you may have dirty injectors. or a dirty air filter. i would say get injector cleaner and clen them out real good and see what happens. BUT, before you do anything run your tank of gas to empty and fill her up somewhere different, quite possible you have bad gas.

 

 

Not that, I tried that.

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  • 1 month later...

Well three months and some parts later I still have this problem. Here's the differnce though. I now notice that if I let the truck warm up for about 15 to 20 minutes I no longer have this problem or it's barely noticeable.

New parts include: Fuel filter, plugs, wires, TPS, oxygen sensor, distributer cap, rotor, CPS, CTS, knock sensor, 19lb injectors.

So here's what I'm thinkin. There is something in that engine bay that expands when it gets hot enough and therefore creates a tight seal not giving the stupid renix sensors mixed signals.

So maybe an airleak somewhere? I though that maybe it was the bolts to the intake manifold but all those are all on tight nowand no change.

I changed my ccv lines but oil still leaks from the new grommets leading me to believe that maybe this is causing the problem and the grommets expand (especially the one going from the back of the valve cover to the intake manifold) sealing off the air leaking and creating the necessary vaccum? Maybe?

Next theory is that the piston rings are shot completely and because it is cold do not create the necessary compression untill they warm up completly and expand forming a tight seal with the cylinder walls?

However compression tests show that all cylinders are good except #1 is a little lower.

Of course, there is still the MAP sensor, EGR, MAT sensor that ned to be changed, but if these were faulty it would stutter all the time and not get any better as the temperature in the bay warms up.

So kids, any ideas?

PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!

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I've heard (but not yet tried for myself) that you can find some vacuum leaks by using a propane torch (without igniting the flame of course). The theory is that when the gas gets sucked into the leak, the engine will burn the propane and the idle speed will change slightly. Keep the gas on a low setting.

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