Whole Dash Removal

[Warren99]

Do the nuts come from the factory with this gooey loctite stuff? Only way I was able to get the nut off was by overtightening it in a vice, and the other 4 studs can't wiggle out of the firewall, and there's no way I can get a vice grip on the shoulder. 

I think I might just cut them out of the fire wall, and look for some similarly threaded screws somewhere to hold it in. The only issue I see with that is the next time I'm putting the HVAC box back in I'll need help, but I'm not concerned about that. 

[Pete M]

could be wrong, but I believe it's less "locktite" and more "sealant-so-the-hole-doesn't-leak".  

[Warren99]

Lol I thought the same thing afterwards. All the sealant that was pushed around the nut cracked and fell off when I first looked at it with my eyes. Either way, it seems to have gotten into the threads

[Warren99]

Still waiting on input on that probe thing that I stuck into the EVAP core. I'm planning on trying to get the HVAC back in later today, but I'd hate to do it then find out I have to take it back out to do something else with that probe.

[Pete M]

the end of the probe needs to be in the middle.  looks good to me.  

[Warren99]

Ok thx

[AZJeff]

The fast-turn thread that goes in to the holes in the heater box is pretty easy to strip out when being reinstalled.  If that happens, the best thing to do is to epoxy the screw into the stripped hole, and let it cure before trying to thread a nut on the other end.

 

The nut is NOT attached with Loctite or anything similar.  The integral washer on that nut is coated with a sealant on the surface that mates against the firewall.  The sealant is designed to keep water from entering the cab through the mounting holes in the firewall.

 

If the threads are coated in this stuff, they can be cleaned with a solvent (as can the nuts).   A bit of clear RTV can be placed around the hole before the nut is tightened and that can provide the water sealing action that is needed.

 

The thermostatic tube that is part of your older-style expansion valve should be placed in the center of the evaporator, between the fins.  IT needs to sense the temperature of the evaporator in it's coldest area, so it can control refrigerant flow properly.

[AZJeff]

BTW, the perimeter of the evaporator and heater core need to be surrounded with some sort of foam or similar material when they are installed into the heater box.  If they are not surrounded, they will rattle around making noise, and air will leak around the heater core or evaporator, lessening their performance.

 

Finding OEM foam is pretty close to impossible, so I recommend buying foam from a hardware supply place and cutting it to fit the spaces.  the foam can be attached to the heater core or the evaporator with contact cement.

[Warren99]

7 hours ago, AZJeff said:

BTW, the perimeter of the evaporator and heater core need to be surrounded with some sort of foam or similar material when they are installed into the heater box.  If they are not surrounded, they will rattle around making noise, and air will leak around the heater core or evaporator, lessening their performance.

 

Finding OEM foam is pretty close to impossible, so I recommend buying foam from a hardware supply place and cutting it to fit the spaces.  the foam can be attached to the heater core or the evaporator with contact cement.

The EVAP core didn’t have any foam around it at all. The new heater core was bigger than the OEM one and wouldn’t fit with OEM foam wrapped around it. I literally just got the HVAC box mounted so it’s gonna have to stay that way lol. 

[Warren99]

Just got the dash in today. Gonna be trying to do everything else over the weekend. So far no major road bumps👍🏻

[jpnjake]

45 minutes ago, Warren99 said:

Just got the dash in today. Gonna be trying to do everything else over the weekend. So far no major road bumps👍🏻

Black interior looking stunning 

 

fantastic Job so far

[Warren99]

Just now, jpnjake said:

Black interior looking stunning 

 

fantastic Job so far

Yea I can't wait to get the rest in. The only thing I won't have is the headliner. The black one was in rough shape so I'm leaving the gray one in for now. Also the trans is from a YJ that's why the shifter is so tall lol.

Now that I'm talking about it, would a shifter from an AX-15 XJ bolt right up to mine? If it's easy enough I'll grab one next time I'm in a junkyard. The tall shifter never really bothered me before, but now that I'm about to have a center console, I'll probably rather have the regular height lol

[Pete M]

test for leaks before you get any further.   

[Warren99]

Oh yea I know, my rear window has gotten BAD so once I get the dash wired up to where it runs and therefore can move again, I'll probably put priority on getting the new window in.

[Warren99]

From the "Removal and replacement of my slider back window" thread:

 

What kind of sealant is this?