89 MJ Posted September 1, 2022 Share Posted September 1, 2022 @acfortier, I don't know if you need them or not, but Rare Parts has lower ball joints in stock. These are stupid hard to find and they are the only company that reproduces them. They are $116 each, plus shipping. Their stock is off on their website, so you have to call them. Their phone number is 800-621-2005. The upper ball joints are reproduced. They have at most 4 pairs left, so you'll want to jump on it soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acfortier Posted September 1, 2022 Author Share Posted September 1, 2022 14 minutes ago, 89 MJ said: @acfortier, I don't know if you need them or not, but Rare Parts has lower ball joints in stock. These are stupid hard to find and they are the only company that reproduces them. They are $116 each, plus shipping. Their stock is off on their website, so you have to call them. Their phone number is 800-621-2005. The upper ball joints are reproduced. They have at most 4 pairs left, so you'll want to jump on it soon. Thanks! I'll probably try to order a set soon. Good to have things like that on hand since the aftermarket is so small. Not really much of an update, haven't touched it. Still debating what I want to do about the transmission. That '87 in the yard near me is selling theirs for $345, has 120,000 miles on it or something. Thinking I may just go that route for now. Replacement rockers came in from Canada. Got a cover for it since I doubt I'll have it running by the winter (but fingers crossed). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted September 1, 2022 Share Posted September 1, 2022 11 minutes ago, acfortier said: Thanks! I'll probably try to order a set soon. Good to have things like that on hand since the aftermarket is so small. That's exactly the way I look at it too. And people think finding MJ parts is difficult (which it is). Finding Eagle parts makes finding MJ parts look like you're trying to source parts for a 69 Camaro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acfortier Posted September 1, 2022 Author Share Posted September 1, 2022 6 minutes ago, 89 MJ said: That's exactly the way I look at it too. And people think finding MJ parts is difficult (which it is). Finding Eagle parts makes finding MJ parts look like you're trying to source parts for a 69 Camaro No joke! I think I was looking for a wheel hub assembly for the Eagle and couldn't find nothing... heh. At least I was able to find something for the MJ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted September 1, 2022 Share Posted September 1, 2022 Ya know, if ya think like AMC, you could probably use Jeep parts in the place of some Eagle parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted September 1, 2022 Share Posted September 1, 2022 2 minutes ago, acfortier said: No joke! I think I was looking for a wheel hub assembly for the Eagle and couldn't find nothing... heh. At least I was able to find something for the MJ! You actually have to rebuild the hub assemblies. You can buy new bearings and seals and press them into the hubs. They aren't difficult if you have access to a press and can get the hub off. I even figured out how to do it without removing the CV axles. Otherwise you can modify the knuckle to accept an MJ/XJ wheel bearing. 2 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said: Ya know, if ya think like AMC, you could probably use Jeep parts in the place of some Eagle parts. I was planning on doing that until I saw that Rare Parts had the correct ones. I was going to look at other vehicles with 2wd that I could use the lower ball joint for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpnjake Posted September 2, 2022 Share Posted September 2, 2022 Hey I have a 4wd 33k mile 3 speed automatic that you can have, I’m in Nh, message me if you want it. It came out of a 92 wrangler you can have it for free Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpnjake Posted September 2, 2022 Share Posted September 2, 2022 its a 998 from behind a 4.0L, the 4cyl would have a different bell pattern Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acfortier Posted September 5, 2022 Author Share Posted September 5, 2022 Thanks to @jpnjake, picked up the transmission from the '92 YJ. Will be hopefully using this in the Eagle, once I have a chance to drop the old one. I owe you pics of my black bucket seats in the MJ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpnjake Posted September 6, 2022 Share Posted September 6, 2022 6 hours ago, acfortier said: Thanks to @jpnjake, picked up the transmission from the '92 YJ. Will be hopefully using this in the Eagle, once I have a chance to drop the old one. I owe you pics of my black bucket seats in the MJ! Lol it was great to meet you today and have a chance to talk for a bit. I really hope that trans will get it going again. Maybe next time it won’t be pouring rain and we can actually look at the projects lol. Definitely excited to see those black buckets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acfortier Posted September 19, 2022 Author Share Posted September 19, 2022 Had a chance to drop the old transmission. Wasn't too bad of a job. Looking at the old transmission, it's clear there were/are some issues... Kickdown linkage wasn't connected. The entire mechanism on the transmission itself is missing, and it looks like someone tried to goop/seal it up with blue RTV. Weird... Both tranny cooler lines need to be replaced. One of them snapped off in the transmission itself, the other just twisted until it broke off. Shouldn't be a big deal, but they were definitely stuck in there. Someone, at some point, already changed/messed with the tranny cooler lines, since there's a foot extra of rubber hose in the circuit that needs to be removed. The vacuum actuator to select from 2WD and 4WD was in the trunk, and someone just installed a spring to keep the TC in 4WD all of the time... yeah, that's not gonna fly lol The NP128--is it supposed to sound this, uh, bad? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Iy_F09f7BiygBVnW8j3VALKA5UOqcGfF/view?usp=sharing The transmission from the '92 YJ looks like it'll be a near exact match, except for a hole that will need to be plugged up on the top of the transmission--not sure what it's used for on the '92 YJ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The86manche Posted September 19, 2022 Share Posted September 19, 2022 30 minutes ago, acfortier said: Had a chance to drop the old transmission. Wasn't too bad of a job. Looking at the old transmission, it's clear there were/are some issues... Kickdown linkage wasn't connected. The entire mechanism on the transmission itself is missing, and it looks like someone tried to goop/seal it up with blue RTV. Weird... Both tranny cooler lines need to be replaced. One of them snapped off in the transmission itself, the other just twisted until it broke off. Shouldn't be a big deal, but they were definitely stuck in there. Someone, at some point, already changed/messed with the tranny cooler lines, since there's a foot extra of rubber hose in the circuit that needs to be removed. The vacuum actuator to select from 2WD and 4WD was in the trunk, and someone just installed a spring to keep the TC in 4WD all of the time... yeah, that's not gonna fly lol The NP128--is it supposed to sound this, uh, bad? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Iy_F09f7BiygBVnW8j3VALKA5UOqcGfF/view?usp=sharing The transmission from the '92 YJ looks like it'll be a near exact match, except for a hole that will need to be plugged up on the top of the transmission--not sure what it's used for on the '92 YJ? You mean the hole on the bell housing of the yj trans? That was for the cps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acfortier Posted September 19, 2022 Author Share Posted September 19, 2022 9 hours ago, The86manche said: You mean the hole on the bell housing of the yj trans? That was for the cps Doh—you’re right. I thought the 4.2L was still in use in the YJ in ‘92. Although, it looks like this CPS is a different style than the one used on our MJs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpnjake Posted September 19, 2022 Share Posted September 19, 2022 Wow I’m glad transmission will be gone and never hurt anyone again I’m glad the YJ one is hopefully gonna work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acfortier Posted September 24, 2022 Author Share Posted September 24, 2022 Got COVID this past week, so haven't been able to work on the Eagle. I'm concerned with the slop of the current TC, so I think I'm going to get a replacement. $150 from a JY isn't too bad, and trying to decide if I want to go with another NP128 (open diff.) or NP129 (viscous coupling). NP129s are more common since they were found in more years, seems like the NP128 was '86 only. Why? Who knows... lol. It seems, from what I can glean off the web, that the NP129 is actually preferred. There's one nearby with 58,000 miles, so that's not too bad. Rebuilding really isn't an option--would cost way more (just like the transmission). Haven't taken off the old TC from the transmission yet, but I'm expecting the output shaft from the 32RH is different than the one on the TF998, and Novak kinda confirms it: https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/gearing Never taken one of them apart, but shouldn't be too bad if I need to swap the old output shaft from the TF998 to the 32RH. Also, not sure if I need to use the existing flexplate or the flexplate that came with the 32RH... Purchased some 6AN lines and fittings to plumb up the transmission cooler. Plan on replacing the transmission mount, u-joints on both driveshafts, rear main on the engine, dropping the pan and refinishing it, among other things. I figure, I'm there, may as well do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acfortier Posted September 28, 2022 Author Share Posted September 28, 2022 After much debate, decided to pick up another NP128 from a JY instead of the more common NP129 (only had to drive an hour, so it wasn't too bad). If the VC goes, don't really want to have to deal with that... Needed a good cleaning, and picked up some degreaser from Home Depot. Seemed to work pretty good. Before: After: Should have thought about this first, but... it seems I can't get the 4WD to disengage no matter how I move the lever back and forth. Not really a big issue, since it can be in 4WD all the time, but seems a little odd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acfortier Posted December 11, 2022 Author Share Posted December 11, 2022 Got a lot of catching up to do... Haven't had a chance until this weekend to dive into the tranny swap due to house projects. Now that it's colder, of course it's time to work out in an unheated garage! LOL Purchased a handful of things since the last update: Replacement headlamp buckets since mine are chopped up. Found someone on FB marketplace who was parting an Eagle out, seems like they run a business doing this sort of thing. www.AllUsedTruckParts.com Tires! Got a set of 215/65R16 General Grabber A/TX (my new favorite tire) while they were running a $100 off rebate. Oil dipstick + tube for a 4.0, since they don't make them for a 4.2 and I don't currently have one. Should just need a little modifying to work. Bunch of misc. seals, ujoints, hoses, etc. Nothing too exciting. I'm terrible at taking pictures while I work, and not too keen on using my phone since my hands get absolutely destroyed by dirt and grease, but a rough order of operations: * Replaced input seal for transfer case. Didn't bother taking apart the yokes and replacing those seals while the unit was on the bench, since they're easy enough to drop a u-joint and replace them in the vehicle * The replacement T/C didn't have the studs to connect to the transmission, so had to use the double nut method to remove 4 of the 6 from the old to put them on the new. Got everything bolted on and in place, then moved on to the transmission. * Replaced the input and output seals on the transmission. * Dropped the pan on the bench and drained the fluid. Man, was it milky! I guess it's to be expected sitting out for all that time. Got out as much water/milky fluid and replaced the filter and gasket. * Mated the transmission and T/C together on the bench then moved it to car * They don't make direct replacement transmission mounts for these anymore. BUT, the Anchor 2921 is pretty similar--the only difference being it has studs instead of just holes to connect it to the crossmember. Just had to grind down the welds and smash out the studs, and it was ready to be used. At this point, we were jacking it up and attempting to align it to mate it to the engine, when we realized that some of the teeth on the flexplate were worn down. Greeaaaatttt... "While we're here" was our attitude, so we took off the old flexplate, and put on the flexplate that came with the transmission I got from @jpnjake. The only difference being the old flexplate didn't have the section for the CPS to work, and the new one did. Don't think it'll really matter anyways? The new flexplate was solid so we threw it on. * Figured out which bolt went where, got everything connected. Had a b*@ch of a time getting the transmission crossmember lined up, but some physical coercion got it where it needed to go. * The NSS on the old transmission was the long style, the one on the new was the short style, but the plug didn't seem to want to go on the short style. Before I did some research (they are swappable), I removed the old NSS, knowing that it would connect to that, but there was an issue with the sensor and was ground down a bit from something and wouldn't spring back if I pressed on it, so not going to use that. May buy a pigtail tomorrow and see if I can get the short style to connect, or just splice in a new pigtail. Easy enough. * Also realized I needed to change the shift/kickdown linkage on the new transmission to the linkage from the old transmission... after it was already in the car. Ugh. That took some time, but was able to get it done, and that's where we left it for the night. Going to tackle it some more tomorrow, hoping for at least: * Replace u-joints on driveshaft and connect * Fill transmission + T/C with fluid * Swap wheels Then see if she runs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acfortier Posted December 12, 2022 Author Share Posted December 12, 2022 Tackled some more stuff today. * Replaced all 4 u-joints on both driveshafts * Figured out the transmission cooler lines are 1/4 NPT. Had to scramble and find two 1/4 MPT to 1/8 FPT so that my 6AN to 1/8 NPT fittings would work. Unfortunately, after creating the new lines and routing them, my stepdad tightened down one too much and it broke. Luckily I had already ordered more 6AN to 1/4 NPT fittings, and should be here tomorrow. Just have to screw it in and we'll be good. * Put on the wheels and tires. It looks AWESOME! * Re-attached the vacuum actuator to control the 2WD/4WD. Although, I'm not 100% positive I've got it correct. It seems the vacuum lines could just fall off the actuator, or might come in contact with the driveshaft? @89 MJ, any chance you can snag me a picture of your transfer case vacuum shift actuator-thingy? * Still couldn't get the NSS connector on the short-style NSS, so decided to just splice the new one on since that one went on easily. However, getting a weird issue--after getting it all connected, I was able to crank the engine in any gear, and the reverse lights didn't come on in reverse. I guess it's possible it's no good, so going to try to get a replacement for tomorrow. Wow, after writing that list, I realize that we wasted a ton of time going store to store to try and find the correct AN fitting or something else that would work, LOL So, hopefully tomorrow, put in new fitting, fill with fluid, and see if she moves! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted December 12, 2022 Share Posted December 12, 2022 34 minutes ago, acfortier said: Re-attached the vacuum actuator to control the 2WD/4WD. Although, I'm not 100% positive I've got it correct. It seems the vacuum lines could just fall off the actuator, or might come in contact with the driveshaft? @89 MJ, any chance you can snag me a picture of your transfer case vacuum shift actuator-thingy? I’m in AZ right now, but I’ll try to get some pics when I get home next Saturday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acfortier Posted December 12, 2022 Author Share Posted December 12, 2022 29 minutes ago, 89 MJ said: I’m in AZ right now, but I’ll try to get some pics when I get home next Saturday. No rush! Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted December 12, 2022 Share Posted December 12, 2022 28 minutes ago, acfortier said: No rush! Thanks. Happy to help! Holler if there is anything else that you’ll need a picture of because I’ll be back in AZ by January 10th or so Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpnjake Posted December 12, 2022 Share Posted December 12, 2022 On 12/10/2022 at 9:53 PM, acfortier said: Got a lot of catching up to do... Haven't had a chance until this weekend to dive into the tranny swap due to house projects. Now that it's colder, of course it's time to work out in an unheated garage! LOL Purchased a handful of things since the last update: Replacement headlamp buckets since mine are chopped up. Found someone on FB marketplace who was parting an Eagle out, seems like they run a business doing this sort of thing. www.AllUsedTruckParts.com Tires! Got a set of 215/65R16 General Grabber A/TX (my new favorite tire) while they were running a $100 off rebate. Oil dipstick + tube for a 4.0, since they don't make them for a 4.2 and I don't currently have one. Should just need a little modifying to work. Bunch of misc. seals, ujoints, hoses, etc. Nothing too exciting. I'm terrible at taking pictures while I work, and not too keen on using my phone since my hands get absolutely destroyed by dirt and grease, but a rough order of operations: * Replaced input seal for transfer case. Didn't bother taking apart the yokes and replacing those seals while the unit was on the bench, since they're easy enough to drop a u-joint and replace them in the vehicle * The replacement T/C didn't have the studs to connect to the transmission, so had to use the double nut method to remove 4 of the 6 from the old to put them on the new. Got everything bolted on and in place, then moved on to the transmission. * Replaced the input and output seals on the transmission. * Dropped the pan on the bench and drained the fluid. Man, was it milky! I guess it's to be expected sitting out for all that time. Got out as much water/milky fluid and replaced the filter and gasket. * Mated the transmission and T/C together on the bench then moved it to car * They don't make direct replacement transmission mounts for these anymore. BUT, the Anchor 2921 is pretty similar--the only difference being it has studs instead of just holes to connect it to the crossmember. Just had to grind down the welds and smash out the studs, and it was ready to be used. At this point, we were jacking it up and attempting to align it to mate it to the engine, when we realized that some of the teeth on the flexplate were worn down. Greeaaaatttt... "While we're here" was our attitude, so we took off the old flexplate, and put on the flexplate that came with the transmission I got from @jpnjake. The only difference being the old flexplate didn't have the section for the CPS to work, and the new one did. Don't think it'll really matter anyways? The new flexplate was solid so we threw it on. * Figured out which bolt went where, got everything connected. Had a b*@ch of a time getting the transmission crossmember lined up, but some physical coercion got it where it needed to go. * The NSS on the old transmission was the long style, the one on the new was the short style, but the plug didn't seem to want to go on the short style. Before I did some research (they are swappable), I removed the old NSS, knowing that it would connect to that, but there was an issue with the sensor and was ground down a bit from something and wouldn't spring back if I pressed on it, so not going to use that. May buy a pigtail tomorrow and see if I can get the short style to connect, or just splice in a new pigtail. Easy enough. * Also realized I needed to change the shift/kickdown linkage on the new transmission to the linkage from the old transmission... after it was already in the car. Ugh. That took some time, but was able to get it done, and that's where we left it for the night. Going to tackle it some more tomorrow, hoping for at least: * Replace u-joints on driveshaft and connect * Fill transmission + T/C with fluid * Swap wheels Then see if she runs! I’m glad to see that the trans is in, and that you could use that flex plate. Getting excited to see it on the road soon. And that transmission should be good, as the motor that was next to it under the bench for the last 20 years is in my soon to be daily lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acfortier Posted December 14, 2022 Author Share Posted December 14, 2022 On 12/12/2022 at 8:13 AM, jpnjake said: I’m glad to see that the trans is in, and that you could use that flex plate. Getting excited to see it on the road soon. And that transmission should be good, as the motor that was next to it under the bench for the last 20 years is in my soon to be daily lol. I'm glad I took it! Apparently, the magic combo is torque converter, flexplate + starter. Can't mix and match from pre-'88 and post-'88 (apparently, this was when they swapped starters to the newer style). So, had a new NSS and newer style starter in hand, started to tackle the rest. My stepdad was able to put the transmission cooler fitting on (that he broke) yesterday. I swapped out the NSS no problem, then removed the old starter. Here's a picture of the old style starter that was installed: As you can see, just has the one post for the cable to connect to. Here's the newer style starter that I got: Which has the extra post. Since my Eagle uses a Ford style 4-terminal starter solenoid, I realized I need to jump the ignition switched 12V to that post down on the starter now. Had to run back out to get some ring terminals, and was able to connect it up and see if I resolved my ability to crank the engine in any gear... aaaaaand still able to crank in any gear, and no reverse lights. So clearly, there's something going on. Got a test light, was getting 12V to the correct terminal at the NSS. Perfect. Taking a look at a diagram, it seems that the middle terminal of the NSS is blue w/ tracer that connects back at the starter solenoid. OK, cool--was just looking at that: (Ignore the Romex in there. Apparently a PO used it to wire up a subwoofer/amp in the trunk... wild lol). So, big terminal on the left side goes to the battery, big terminal on the right side goes to the starter, small terminal towards the bottom (green wire and the red one I added) is the ignition 12V+, and the top is the "I" which one wire goes into the cab (uhhh?) and the other to the dizzy. No sign of any blue w/ tracer... I took a crap photo, but you can see it off on the right, and it had a right-angle plug on it. Clearly someone bypassed the NSS at some point in time. Wonderful. Here's a picture of the starter diagram for the 6 cyl: So, let's hook it back up--there should be a ground post for the NSS to connect to... except... there isn't. Someone replaced the starter solenoid with a manual transmission one, which grounds through the bracket, which seemingly bypasses the NSS. GREAT! I have a feeling that someone was chasing down a no crank situation, as the original NSS in the car was chewed up/rubbed down internally, decided to replace the starter solenoid in a troubleshooting attempt or did it to bypass it completely. Not a huge deal as I doubt the inspector would actually test the functionality of the NSS, but still no reverse lights. I *think* it's independent of the NSS actually working, but didn't have a chance to troubleshoot further. Will need to put the car in reverse, run an alligator clip from the NSS connector to the correct pin on the NSS, then use a test light to see if the other pin has 12V at it. If it does, there's a downstream wiring issue (bulbs could theoretically both be out?). If not, then the NSS is bad (which seems unlikely since it's brand new). I do think I will probably replace the starter solenoid with the correct AT version instead of the MT one they installed. Here's what it should look like: There's that spark-plug looking ground post. Here's what I have now: No ground post. So I assume if I get the correct solenoid, and plug in the NSS plug, it'll work as intended. The bracket on the solenoid with the ground post must not be a ground, like it is for the solenoid for a MT. Either way, it's not a real blocker, let's see if she runs and drives! Filled up the T/C all of the way, and put 5 qts in the transmission. Got it started, put it in gear, let the wheels spin (was still up in the air at this point), and got it warm. Decided we should take it for a spin around the block to make sure everything is OK. As I was lowering the front, my stepdad noticed that while in Park, the rear wheels were still spinning. Huh, odd. He shut it off before we continued to lower it down. He asked about the bolt that holds the shifter rod in place, if it was ever tightened. I couldn't remember, so I checked--it was tight, so should be good. Continued to lower the vehicle down, and went to go back it out to take it for a spin... ...when we realized that while in "Park" (according to the shifter), it is actually in reverse. And so on and so forth--until it reached 1/2 and it wouldn't go any further. Need to adjust the shifter rod back more, if possible--it was at the end, so will have to take a closer look. Anyways, we could still put it in R, N, and D, so we took it for a spin, started to slip going between R and D before we got out of the driveway, so added some more fluid, and took it around the block. It lives! No issues with slippage at all, and no major problems with what we've changed so far. Thanks again @jpnjake for the transmission--it works beautifully. Oh, also--the exhaust was pretty much cut off around the T/C and had been blowing directly on the now-mangled speedo cable, so instead of risking more heat-related issues, I bought a 90 degree elbow to turn it down right past the crossmember. And I mean right past--it was a tight fit. Found out the the thermostat housing and upper radiator hose were both leaking, but have both parts (one already here, another on the way). I think the coolant temp. sending unit is also bad--the gauge cluster shows it 3/4 of the way up in the green section no matter what. That was it for the night, but the list gets somewhat shorter! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted December 14, 2022 Share Posted December 14, 2022 That's funny that your NSS wasn't working. Mine doesn't work either. That is a ton of wiring there on the starter solenoid! Way more than I think that mine has. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acfortier Posted December 14, 2022 Author Share Posted December 14, 2022 9 hours ago, 89 MJ said: That's funny that your NSS wasn't working. Mine doesn't work either. That is a ton of wiring there on the starter solenoid! Way more than I think that mine has. I wonder if someone bypassed that one, too. Lol. Yeah, it's kinda rats-nest-y but it's not terrible. Most connections are intact--there's an orange wire there that was cut at some point, so not sure what that goes to, if anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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