AX15 External Slave Cylinder

[KANTANKRUS]

Are there any alternatives of an aftermarket external slave cylinder for an (AX15), other than Advance Adapters (SKU: 716340)?

 

Just today, I pushed in my clutch and my pedal did not return to the normal resting position.

The current Advance Adapter, External Slave Cylinder cannot have 5,000 miles on it!

It is my belief that it "$#!& the bed"  

Everything is intact, no loss of fluid anywhere!

I seem to think that after I purchased from Advance Adapters, (that there was chatter) saying that these kits, are failure prone!

 

Any and all advice, will be highly appreciated!

[Pete M]

isn't the return spring inside the master?  I'm assuming it's no longer under warranty?

[Limeyjeeper]

I had a similar issue. The master cylinder piston bottomed out and jammed at the end of the cylinder. 

[KANTANKRUS]

Maybe we are all not talking about the same thing. I may have my terminology incorrect... is this not a slave cylinder, or is it?

And if it is, where would the said spring be? Internally, I would have to only assume! And if so, how would I access it?

 

Please advise!

[watchamakalit]

4 hours ago, RestoringNV said:

Maybe we are all not talking about the same thing. I may have my terminology incorrect... is this not a slave cylinder, or is it?

And if it is, where would the said spring be? Internally, I would have to only assume! And if so, how would I access it?

 

Please advise!

That is the master cylinder for the clutch. The slave cylinder is either externally mounted on the trans., or internal to the bellhousing. 

[KANTANKRUS]

5 hours ago, watchamakalit said:

That is the master cylinder for the clutch. The slave cylinder is either externally mounted on the trans., or internal to the bellhousing. 

Technically, there are two cylinders... the Master (pictured, above) and the Slave (pictured, below) right?

 

[Pete M]

master is in the engine bay, slave is in/on the bellhousing.  

[KANTANKRUS]

46 minutes ago, Pete M said:

master is in the engine bay, slave is in/on the bellhousing.  

I must wrap my head around all associated terms, before I even try to tackle such troubles. Yes, I have turned into a geek... lol!

[KANTANKRUS]

I replaced the spring under the dash with a heavier spring (clutch pedal arm). Still no help.

Its not engaging. It will not go into gear, when running.

[Limeyjeeper]

The pedal is controlled by the hydraulics in the master/slave assembly. The spring does very little. The resistance in the pedal comes from the clutch pressure plate and the hydraulic pressure in the system. If the pedal is stuck on the floor and won't move the master cylinder piston is jammed. If the pedal is moving without any resistance either the master or slave cylinder seal has gone, there is air in the system. (MJ clutch cylinders are very hard to bleed) or the master cylinder piston rod has seperated from the piston due to it jamming.  

[KANTANKRUS]

1 hour ago, Limeyjeeper said:

The pedal is controlled by the hydraulics in the master/slave assembly. The spring does very little. The resistance in the pedal comes from the clutch pressure plate and the hydraulic pressure in the system. If the pedal is stuck on the floor and won't move the master cylinder piston is jammed. If the pedal is moving without any resistance either the master or slave cylinder seal has gone, there is air in the system. (MJ clutch cylinders are very hard to bleed) or the master cylinder piston rod has seperated from the piston due to it jamming.  

So, with that said, it is in the master cylinder and not the slave cylinder.

[Limeyjeeper]

Disconnect the clutch rod from the pedal. If it falls on the floor then your master cylinder is jammed. If it pushes in and out with force then it is bleeding, lack of fluid or a seal that has gone. 

[gogmorgo]

For a mnemonic tool to tell them apart, remember the master commands the slave, and the slave follows the master. 
 

First thing I would do is check fluid level, then I would chock the wheels and crawl underneath and pop the slave cylinder off and make sure everything looks normal down there.

If the fluid level is down, either it’s because there’s a leak or else it wasn’t correctly bled at install and there just isn’t enough fluid in the system. It’s easy enough to bleed an external slave. Just pull the slave cylinder off, point the line as straight up off the slave as you can and push the piston in, give it a jiggle so the air bubbles work their way up the line to the master, then carefully pull the piston out and pump it again the same way a few times. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master. Some slaves don’t have a stop to prevent the piston from coming all the way out so watch for that. 
 

I don’t know what the advance adapters external slave kit is like. IF it’s just a reproduction of the factory setup for the later XJ, all you’d need is a master cylinder for a ‘95, grab it from any parts store if that ends up being the issue. But best to double check what’s in the kit. LUK stuff is pretty good so it’s unusual it would fail so quickly, but you should be able to cross reference the part number on it. If you do have lines apart to change components, it’ll need bled as per the above procedure.

[KANTANKRUS]

3 hours ago, Limeyjeeper said:

Disconnect the clutch rod from the pedal. If it falls on the floor then your master cylinder is jammed. If it pushes in and out with force then it is bleeding, lack of fluid or a seal that has gone. 

Great info and tech!

[KANTANKRUS]

2 hours ago, gogmorgo said:

For a mnemonic tool to tell them apart, remember the master commands the slave, and the slave follows the master. 
 

First thing I would do is check fluid level, then I would chock the wheels and crawl underneath and pop the slave cylinder off and make sure everything looks normal down there.

If the fluid level is down, either it’s because there’s a leak or else it wasn’t correctly bled at install and there just isn’t enough fluid in the system. It’s easy enough to bleed an external slave. Just pull the slave cylinder off, point the line as straight up off the slave as you can and push the piston in, give it a jiggle so the air bubbles work their way up the line to the master, then carefully pull the piston out and pump it again the same way a few times. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master. Some slaves don’t have a stop to prevent the piston from coming all the way out so watch for that. 
 

I don’t know what the advance adapters external slave kit is like. IF it’s just a reproduction of the factory setup for the later XJ, all you’d need is a master cylinder for a ‘95, grab it from any parts store if that ends up being the issue. But best to double check what’s in the kit. LUK stuff is pretty good so it’s unusual it would fail so quickly, but you should be able to cross reference the part number on it. If you do have lines apart to change components, it’ll need bled as per the above procedure.

 

[KANTANKRUS]

No loss of fluid, has been found.