1992 Briarwood Black Bear

[GritHound]

Finished up the gearbox today!  Hoping the time/effort invested will payoff for years to come.

 

 

 

 

 

[GritHound]

Got the Engine broken down and getting it ready for the machine shop next week.  I can't believe how clogged the lifters were, I'm guessing very little oil was making its way around the head and he never changed the oil.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[GritHound]

 Ball joint removal day is always a good time.  Hate you all missed it.

 

[eaglescout526]

1 hour ago, GritHound said:

Ball joint removal day is always a good time.  Hate you all missed it.

Nope! Did a buddies WJ the other day. Hated it. 

[GritHound]

I was able to find a few cool parts on my day off today.  Should clean up nicely.

 

 

[GritHound]

Picked up the head from the machine shop was able to get it back together this week.  I decided to go ahead an paint it so I could see how the coloring would turn out.  I'm picking up the block next week so hoping to get the engine put together and painted this month.  I'm liking the metallic burnt orange color can’t wait to see once completed.

 

 

 

 

Thought I would take a couple of closeups.  You have clean these covers thoroughly before painting.  The pits collect oil and will birds eye your paint. 

 

500° Primer

 

 

[GritHound]

Finally back on the restore.  Working on the block and crankshaft.  Engine 30 over bore and 258 crankshaft 30 mains 30 rods resurfaced.

 

 

 

[89 MJ]

Glad you're back! That color is super cool. Why the 258 cam?

[GritHound]

7 hours ago, 89 MJ said:

Glad you're back! That color is super cool. Why the 258 cam?

haha.  I meant crank.  Corrected.  Thanks

[89 MJ]

Gotcha. That makes more sense haha

[GritHound]

Crazy issue with the Crankshaft Caps.

 

I had the crankshaft mains and rods journals resurfaced to 30 and had to buy oversized bearings.  Using my caps from the orginal 4.0 the clearance on the mains were fine but once I tightened to spec the crankshaft would not move.  After a lot of measuring, I noticed wear on the side of the #3 bearing where it was making contact with the crank.  It turned out that the oversized #3 bearing did not have enough side clearance due to how the crank cap holes were orginally machined.  When tighten it was driving the bearing into the wall of the crankshaft.  I had to pull the caps from the 258 which were machined correctly.  Now its moving perfect!

 

 

 

[GritHound]

258 Crankshaft Spacer

 

I couldnt find many pictures or actual details on the crankshaft spacer so wanted to provide some insight for others.  Most people make their crankshaft spacer or buy one from Hesco #HESBS (easier option).  I chose to make mine from the balancer I pulled off the 4.2 engine.    Few tips for ensuring you get it right the first time.

1. Get the harmonic balancer installation (1/2-20 thread) and removal tool, if you don't have them.  Should be able to rent for free at any auto store.
2. Put a light coating of grease on the crankshaft and make sure the woodruff keys are installed and not damaged.
3. You should loosley fit the timing cover, install the balancer to center it in the seal, tighten the cover screws and pull the balancer back off then torque all timing cover screws to spec.  If you don't do it this way you could have problems with alignment or tightening the screws that sit behind the balancer.
4. When using the installation tool, make sure to add the spacer to ensure you are able to get over the nose of the crankshaft; otherwise the tool will bottom out on the nose and not let you push the balancer back far enough.
5. Once you get the balancer past the nose front, go slow.  You may need to back it off a few times to get the keyhole lined up before finishing it.
6. The balancer should sit flush with the front of the engine once installed.

 

Note:  I put a couple of the torque coverter bolts in the back of the engine and braced a metal bar against the engine stand to prevent spin while torquing the balancer bolt to 80ft-lb.