NC Tom Posted June 18, 2021 Share Posted June 18, 2021 My 88 was running poorly recently so I replaced the Air Filter, Fuel Filter, Plugs (they were black!) and Wires and Dist cap. The link is really just for audio so you can ignore the video part. It started great, ran for about 90 sec and shut down. Started it again and it started doing what's in the video. Shortly after I stopped recording, everything seemed to straighten out. Is this normal after new parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strokermjcomanche Posted June 18, 2021 Share Posted June 18, 2021 Check your fuel pressure. Also check all your vacuum connections, especially the map hose . make sure you do the stuff that doesn't cost any money first, then go from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted June 19, 2021 Share Posted June 19, 2021 I'm gonna say a vacuum leak, also. I will guess that when the computer goes into closed loop, the RPMs drop and the leak becomes more noticeable. Do you have Nickintimedesign's REM? If not, then I recommend getting one. Looking at the vacuum hoses on the engine, I would say there is more than one leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted June 19, 2021 Share Posted June 19, 2021 Yes. Possible vacuum leak. Also possible you bumped an already poor connection in the engine bay. Have you visited my website and completed tips 1 through 5? If not, get those done first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted June 20, 2021 Author Share Posted June 20, 2021 Okay gents, oh wait, that be insensitive. Okay non-gender specific Jeep Comanche owners, @Strokermjcomanche The MAP sensor plug on the throttle was completely unplugged. Put that back. However, I have noticed that mine has a hose connected at bottom, whereas I have seen many with that same hose connected at top. Does that matter? @87MJTIM I do not have Nickintimedesign's REM. After reading about it, sounds like a must-have. @cruiser54 I hate always saying that I have not does the grounding checks. I'm concerned that it will take so long that I won't be done when I need to go somewhere. I know that's lame. Could the stalling be because the Map sensor/Vacuum system had to re-pressurize before it started running smoothly? It's running pretty well now. Also, this morning, I did the CPS-uplug-replug trick due to no start. It's done this of-and-on recently. Turn over several times with no start, but eventually does start. The CPS trick worked, so I guess I need to replace something there. While digging around for the CPS, I decided to take a pic of two unconnected sensors. ID on those? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted June 20, 2021 Share Posted June 20, 2021 Correct. Lame. Takes half an hour. Seriously, do one part per day. Not to be ignored. Here's one to look at. CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS THROTTLE BODY TO MAP SENSOR HOSE FIX JANUARY 23, 2016 CRUISER54 43 COMMENTS The Renix throttle bodies have a strange and failure prone connector on the side where the MAP supply originates and then runs up to the MAP sensor located on the firewall. This hose/pipe assembly is no longer available for purchase. The real kicker here is how critical this line is in supplying the correct vacuum signal to the MAP, the most relied upon sensor for the ECU to read regarding air/fuel ratio. Any cracks, melted spots, or loose rubber connectors can cause major starting and driveability issues. There’s a simple fix though. All that’s required is a 1/8” NPT tap, a new throttle body gasket ( Napa FPG 60742 ), a vacuum fitting (Napa 05703-B102), two vacuum elbows (Napa CRB2670), and a length of new plastic piping (Napa CRB2672). Remove the throttle body and take it to the workbench. Using an oiled tap along with a driver, carefully thread the lower of the 2 holes of the throttle body where the old fitting was plugged in. Don’t go too deep. These are pipe threads. Flush the hole with carb cleaner and inspect for any left over cuttings. This is an excellent time to do a complete throttle body and IAC cleaning. See Tip 11. Take the vacuum fitting (05703-B102 ) and apply a LITTLE bit of thread sealer on the threads only. I prefer Permatex #2 but almost anything is fine. . Carefully screw the fitting in until snug. Install one of the vacuum elbows on the MAP sensor so it points toward the throttle body, and the other vacuum elbow on your new throttle body fitting so it points up to the MAP sensor. Cut a length of the new plastic tubing (approximately 13 inches) to fit between the vacuum elbows and install it making sure there is enough slack for some engine movement. Route it according to the photo. We don’t want any rubbing or chafing with engine movement. Not a bad idea to use some contact cement or Gasga-Cinch sparingly on the tubing to elbow connectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted June 20, 2021 Author Share Posted June 20, 2021 cruiser54 Is there an option to the NAPA vacuum fitting? It's not in stock at my local store. They want to charge me $22 in shipping and I have to order 5! I'm not playing that game. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdog Posted June 20, 2021 Share Posted June 20, 2021 2 hours ago, NC Tom said: Okay gents, oh wait, that be insensitive. Okay non-gender specific Jeep Comanche owners, @Strokermjcomanche The MAP sensor plug on the throttle was completely unplugged. Put that back. However, I have noticed that mine has a hose connected at bottom, whereas I have seen many with that same hose connected at top. Does that matter? @87MJTIM I do not have Nickintimedesign's REM. After reading about it, sounds like a must-have. @cruiser54 I hate always saying that I have not does the grounding checks. I'm concerned that it will take so long that I won't be done when I need to go somewhere. I know that's lame. Could the stalling be because the Map sensor/Vacuum system had to re-pressurize before it started running smoothly? It's running pretty well now. Also, this morning, I did the CPS-uplug-replug trick due to no start. It's done this of-and-on recently. Turn over several times with no start, but eventually does start. The CPS trick worked, so I guess I need to replace something there. While digging around for the CPS, I decided to take a pic of two unconnected sensors. ID on those? Right connector is for the low wash level one on the left looks like the cps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted June 20, 2021 Share Posted June 20, 2021 The fitting is 1/8" NPT by whatever the vacuum hose is. Probably get it lots of places. The extra CPS connector is probably left over from a cPS mod made years ago. The tech was supposed to cut the old one off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted June 21, 2021 Author Share Posted June 21, 2021 Been looking around for a suitable replacement for the part shown. Is the hole diameter on the threaded end important to function? If the hole was larger, would it matter? Also, cruiser54 did you pick this brass connector for a more permanent solution or is a nylon option not available? Would this fit, for example? https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-47057-HELP-PCV-Elbow/dp/B000JZI1U2/ref=pd_rhf_se_p_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=01Q7SDFB930V62TGYWTC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted June 21, 2021 Share Posted June 21, 2021 It's just a vacuum fitting. No, I never considered a non-metallic fitting. No special reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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