Build help. Lift for 35 and Notch flares

[Fshnfvr]

Ok guys I’m doing an axle swap in my Comanche and am debating spring over or under plus lift. 
 

my plan is never go bigger than 35 inch tires with Notch fender flares. Hunting, fishing, camping rig no hardcore trails. 
 

so should I go spring over or under and what lift size? My research says spring over might be too much lift but I’m not sure. 
 

anyone have opinions?  Especially if you have a complete lift kit recommendation. 

[Dzimm]

Since you are using it as a basic off-road capable rig and are wanting to cut the fenders fit the 35s I'd recommend keeping it simple with a 4.5" kit from Rusty's or similar that comes complete with everything.  That way you get a pallet of parts and can just start bolting them on.  

 

Since you are replacing the axle it's not really anymore work on the axle for spring over since you have to weld on new spring pads to match the MJ regardless if you go SOA or SUA.  With SOA you would reuse your leaf springs but need the lift parts for the front to match.  Usually this route is a bit of mixing and matching parts to get everything setup correctly but usually works out just fine at the end.  I have heard that some people have had a little bit of axle wrap introduced with SOA but I'd imagine that's under pretty heavy acceleration.

[Pete M]

mine wrapped pretty bad on uphill climbs.   (SOA wth pretty worn out leafs)

 

with aftermarket flares, it should work with either a 4.5" SUA or a 6" SOA.  keep in mind that, either way, long bumpstops are what will keep your tires out of the sheetmetal.  

[Smokeyyank]

I'd put that flair money elsewhere . IMHO things are ugly AF and serve no purpose. If you want the clearance just do a quality trim job and bumpstop. Best trim is here, http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/trim.html

 

I'm also assuming since you're going up to 35's you already have the gears and rest of the axle set up to handle that? If not I'd step back a few and do that before you slap a lift and tires on. Stock gearing on 35's is going to be a absolute turd. Also based on what you're saying 31-33's would do exactly what you want. No need for 35's.  

 

[ghetdjc320]

Are you thinking kind of a low CG build? I’ll probably get bashed around a bit for this idea but I’d love to do a lcg build with a super 35, Hp 30, narrow 35’s (10.5-11.5 or so width), notch flares and about 3.5” of lift with some proper air bumps setup and some good weight reduction work. Really no cost savings over a traditional rig but it would be very capable.

[Pete M]

aside from the d35, I've had that very same plan for a while now  

[ghetdjc320]

13 hours ago, Pete M said:

aside from the d35, I've had that very same plan for a while now  

Super 35 . Lightweight, tons of clearance and plenty strong for narrow 35’s. 

[Pete M]

that includes a truss, yes?   I turned mine into a smilie face with 30" tires.

[ghetdjc320]

14 minutes ago, Pete M said:

that includes a truss, yes?   I turned mine into a smilie face with 30" tires.

Xj/mj/tj 44 tubes are no better. And the d35 center section is rigid enough.  But you could truss it. Superior had a D35 truss but it was designed for fore/aft deflection vs the typical over the axle truss. Only reason I’d go this route is for a lightweight lcg build. But it would do just fine for that. To top it off, most MJ’s are pre 90’ and have the non c-clip 35 also. 

[Pete M]

and yet I'm swapping out the d35 that's under my trailer.   it's possible I've got some deeeeeeep seated resentment about my original 88's d35 trying its darnedest to strand me on the side of the road.