TNT Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 I have decided to do a custom build. I'll section the cab and use the back ection from another cab to extend it so a 2dr door fits. The front of the bed will be shortened about 10 inches and the rear of the bed will be bobbed so it ends it the end of the shackle mount. Something like this. The extra room will make it easier to get in and out of. I will also be more comfortable with my back problems. Any input will be great. I'll be adding this to my build thread also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 if your are going to chop the sections from another MJ take it from the middle of the doors.at least thats what i would do.take the 8~9 " from the roof and the floor.this will make it a bit easier to handle sine they would just be strips.from there i would plate the frame to connect the new section to the old. you could cut the back half off right were the rear of the cab starts but the floor rises up there which would make it rough to splice in the newer section.the frame rails get funky in that section as well . just make sure when you cut the floor section to get the frame rails with it.and leave them a bit longer then the floor . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT Posted November 12, 2007 Author Share Posted November 12, 2007 if your are going to chop the sections from another MJ take it from the middle of the doors.at least thats what i would do.take the 8~9 " from the roof and the floor.this will make it a bit easier to handle sine they would just be strips.from there i would plate the frame to connect the new section to the old. you could cut the back half off right were the rear of the cab starts but the floor rises up there which would make it rough to splice in the newer section.the frame rails get funky in that section as well . just make sure when you cut the floor section to get the frame rails with it.and leave them a bit longer then the floor . The plan is to cut my cab off just before the curve in the door opening. I will have another cab I will be adding on to the front portion of the cab. The frame rails will be left intact and the floor pan will be modified as needed. I'm just extending the cab for the extra interior size. The only part of the floor that will be modified is thr transfer case tunnel will be lengthened, the seat belt mounts will be relocated with the new cab section. The rear part of the floor will be modified to fit the frame rise. There will be a bunch of time spent making the floor and cab fit the frame where it rises. I also plan on plating the frame frome front to rear and will make the floor fit the frame properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 right before the curve there is a spot welded seam on the rockers and the roof.get a spot weld cutter for those .from there i would cut straight across the floor and roof.when you cut the new pieces leave a 1" tab over hang for over lapping the new and old sections when you flange them together. as for the frame rails i'm telling you your making it harder then it needs to be.if your plating the frame just cut the rails and splice in new pieces.from what i have seen in doing my chop this is the best solution.with the way the cab mounts to the frame rails its next to impossible to get the floor free of the frame rails/rear cab mount .so then if you figure you'll seperate the floor from the rear of the cab its going to be a total pain and making it look good when you go to close it up again will be a total pain because of the floor rise and frame rails.the second issue with this way is mounting the seats .because of the floor it would be rough.the way i describe it would just be two seams which your going to have to have anyway.the floor remains flat under the seat area which makes that easy to move back. next problem you have to solve in either case is were are you going to clip the frame when you shorten the box/bed.if you just clip it off the back of the frame you will have to come up with new spring hangers all around since you would need to move the front spring mount forward to make up for the amount of frame you cut off.or you would have to use a shorter spring which would reduce flex.if you cut it off the front you have the same issue as the rear spring eye moves forward the front one has to move forward with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT Posted November 12, 2007 Author Share Posted November 12, 2007 As for the cab I have a plan in mind and I'm not cutting my frame rails at the cab. The rails will protude into the cab and I will blend the floor in around them. As for bobbing the rear, the frame will be cut off right behind the shackle mounts and the box will end right there. No spring mounts will need to moved. I will be bobbing the box about 8". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 so do you have a long bed now? you have 8" from behind the shackle to the rear of the bed?i thought the short bed had the hanger right there at the back of the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 I do not think you grasp TNT's idea at all he'll be removing the bed, chopping the back of his cab off right at the door stop, then he's using another section of cab that's cut midway between the doors from a donor, and putting that section on his existing frame accompanied by 2 door doors. that gives him a long cab and doesn't risk the integrity of the unibody frame rails by cutting them. reinforcement will of course be needed in the cab. then, cutting the exact same amount off the front of the bed that he extended the cab, he can put the bed back on. this keeps his short wheel base for offroading so he doesn't high center. bobbing the rear of the bed to the shackles gives him a greater departure angle and will decrease chances of screwing anything up offroad. since he's starting with a shortbed, he'll end up with a 4.5 foot long bed approx. my only concern TNT, is that your gas tank will no longer fit in the stock location since the cab will be over the top of the front 10" of it. will you be building a stock-mounted fuel cell or a bed-mounted one, or adapting a stock tank? his plan is one that I've toyed with and have a very good knowledge on since I've looked over all the framing issues already...this is the smartest way to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT Posted November 12, 2007 Author Share Posted November 12, 2007 so do you have a long bed now? you have 8" from behind the shackle to the rear of the bed?i thought the short bed had the hanger right there at the back of the frame. I have a short bed. The frame goes about 4" past the shackle mount, but the end of the box is 8" past the end of the shackle mount. I would make the box and frame end at the same place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT Posted November 12, 2007 Author Share Posted November 12, 2007 I do not think you grasp TNT's idea at all he'll be removing the bed, chopping the back of his cab off right at the door stop, then he's using another section of cab that's cut midway between the doors from a donor, and putting that section on his existing frame accompanied by 2 door doors. that gives him a long cab and doesn't risk the integrity of the unibody frame rails by cutting them. reinforcement will of course be needed in the cab. then, cutting the exact same amount off the front of the bed that he extended the cab, he can put the bed back on. this keeps his short wheel base for offroading so he doesn't high center. bobbing the rear of the bed to the shackles gives him a greater departure angle and will decrease chances of screwing anything up offroad. since he's starting with a shortbed, he'll end up with a 4.5 foot long bed approx. my only concern TNT, is that your gas tank will no longer fit in the stock location since the cab will be over the top of the front 10" of it. will you be building a stock-mounted fuel cell or a bed-mounted one, or adapting a stock tank? his plan is one that I've toyed with and have a very good knowledge on since I've looked over all the framing issues already...this is the smartest way to do it. The plan is an XJ tank mounted in the bed under a custom cover. The battery will also be bed mounted and there will be a tool/spare parts storage box also. The spare tire will finish filling the bed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 I do not think you grasp TNT's idea at all. no i completely grasp what he thinks he can do. remember. if you cut the floor around the frame you are just making so much more work for yourself.trying to make new floor pans ,cab mounts,even with what i'm doing i wouldn't want to get into all that. if he cut the frame and plated it he wouldn't be losing any integrity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 i have placed my opinion on this enough .i will keep my mouth shut from this point forward unless asked for what i think.good luck with it can't wait to see how it comes along. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 I have decided to do a custom build. I'll section the cab and use the back ection from another cab to extend it so a 2dr door fits. The front of the bed will be shortened about 10 inches and the rear of the bed will be bobbed so it ends it the end of the shackle mount. The extra room will make it easier to get in and out of. I will also be more comfortable with my back problems. Any input will be great. I'll be adding this to my build thread also. Nice idea, but as long as you're doing all that cutting and fitting, I think it would be better to either keep the MJ doors and add quarter windows behind the B pillar, or extend the can even more to get some real space behind the seats. How much longer are the 2-door doors than the stock MJ doors? Maybe 4 inches? I'm sure it isn't more than 6 inches. For that tiny extra length it isn't even worth the effort to shorten the front of the bed. I wouldn't bob it, either, but if you want the improved departure angle, have fun with the sawzall. But the one factor that caused me to buy a new XJ in 1988 rather than an MJ was the lack of space behind the seat. The amount of stretch you're going to get with the wider doors just isn't enough to qualify as even an extra cab, let alone a crew cab. Consider, too, that you'll just be moving your blind spot a few inches farther back. Adding some quarter windows behind the doors would make life a lot easier and safer if you plan to drive it on the street. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 The plan is an XJ tank mounted in the bed under a custom cover. The battery will also be bed mounted and there will be a tool/spare parts storage box also. The spare tire will finish filling the bed. :huh???: :huh???: :huh???: So you're going through all this work to create a truck that will have zero utilitarian cargo capacity? Methinks you have too much free time available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 How much longer are the 2-door doors than the stock MJ doors? Maybe 4 inches? I'm sure it isn't more than 6 inches. The amount of stretch you're going to get with the wider doors just isn't enough to qualify as even an extra cab, let alone a crew cab. the doors are 9" i have both sitting in my garage.were did he say he was building an extra cab?he simply wants to be able to move his seat all the way back and maybe recline it some. i don't even think he plans to move the seats are you TNT? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT Posted November 12, 2007 Author Share Posted November 12, 2007 The plan is an XJ tank mounted in the bed under a custom cover. The battery will also be bed mounted and there will be a tool/spare parts storage box also. The spare tire will finish filling the bed. :huh???: :huh???: :huh???: So you're going through all this work to create a truck that will have zero utilitarian cargo capacity? Methinks you have too much free time available. I'm building this last project rig as my toy. It isn't being built for utilitarian purposes... My back is getting pretty bad so this is my last project. I'm extending the door openings so it is easier to get in and out of. I'm 6'3" so the added room will make it more comfortable for me. It will have all the room to carry everything I want it to carry. I will also be getting a exo-cage over the roof that will tie in to the weld in rockers, the rear of the frame, the rear shock mounts, front suspension and bumper. It will have a hitch to pull a trailer if needed and I also own other cars/suv's that will be used for my "utilitarian" needs. It will have power windows, locks, mirrors, air conditioning, cruise, tilt steering wheel,delay wipers, great tunes with subs, auto dimming rearview mirror with compass, cb radio, 4.0 HO, AW-4 trans, HP D44 front axle, 9" Ford rear axle and a 242 case(if I can't afford a doubler). It's kind of like my version of a buggy... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 kinda like your version of a buggy... kinda like my vision of KICKASS. i do use my truck for alot of hauling and utility shtuff, but its my only vehicle sounds like you got plenty of haulers (and there's always room for 1 more MJ right? ;) ) :popcorn: can't wait! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT Posted November 12, 2007 Author Share Posted November 12, 2007 How much longer are the 2-door doors than the stock MJ doors? Maybe 4 inches? I'm sure it isn't more than 6 inches. The amount of stretch you're going to get with the wider doors just isn't enough to qualify as even an extra cab, let alone a crew cab. the doors are 9" i have both sitting in my garage.were did he say he was building an extra cab?he simply wants to be able to move his seat all the way back and maybe recline it some. i don't even think he plans to move the seats are you TNT? The 9" will make a world of difference for me. The seats will move about 4"-5"" further back. It's all because of comfort and my bad back. This is my last build so I'm doing it how I want it... Wait until I get my handicap plates. My back doctor keeps offering them yet and I keep saying no... I could probably get disability if I wanted to. I'm not giving up yet, my daughter is pre-med and my son will be starting college in a year and a half. Once they are threw school I will see how bad I am, if my back lasts that long. Life a b*@$£ sometimes, this is my last 4wd I will be using offroad unless medical science finds a fix... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT Posted November 12, 2007 Author Share Posted November 12, 2007 kinda like your version of a buggy... kinda like my vision of KICKASS. i do use my truck for alot of hauling and utility shtuff, but its my only vehicle sounds like you got plenty of haulers (and there's always room for 1 more MJ right? ;) ) :popcorn: can't wait! When it's done maybe we can wheel sometime. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 The 9" will make a world of difference for me. The seats will move about 4"-5"" further back. It's all because of comfort and my bad back. This is my last build so I'm doing it how I want it... . tell me about it i can't fit in a MJ hence the reason i'm making mine long door extra cab.this is also going to be one of my last builds for 4 wheeling.so i want it to be comfortable and beefy to take the beating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 hey tim, we can use the plasma cutter to cut the cab apart how you need it. that'll make it less work building the cab/altering the cab mounts, and it won't even burn the paint off except for that 1/16" past the cut :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepinjay Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 Maybe this is would be a good reason to have a pow wow wrench-a-thon at TNT's to help him out. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT Posted November 12, 2007 Author Share Posted November 12, 2007 Here's a picture comparing a 2dr XJ door to my MJ door. It will make a big difference in room. Image Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT Posted November 12, 2007 Author Share Posted November 12, 2007 Maybe this is would be a good reason to have a pow wow wrench-a-thon at TNT's to help him out. :cheers: That would be cool. JeepcoMJ place is only about 7 minutes from me too. The pow-wow would be cooler by his place, he has more room, a rockpile to play on and can have a bonfire. But if you want to wrench-a-thon I have so much to get done its hard to believe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT Posted November 12, 2007 Author Share Posted November 12, 2007 hey tim, we can use the plasma cutter to cut the cab apart how you need it. that'll make it less work building the cab/altering the cab mounts, and it won't even burn the paint off except for that 1/16" past the cut :D Now that sounds like a plan. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Project5337 Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 If a 4 and half foot bed is enough, then it would be easier to just start with a 2 door XJ. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now