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Dent to bed Removal


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Hey guys I have some bad news. Last week while pulling form my drive my good friend backed into the MJ. The truck was on a incline and when i thru the clutch in it kept rolling and ripped his tail light out and did a good amount of damage on his car (his wifes car). Needless to say i now have a dent that I need to remove. Its abotu where Jeepcomj was hit but on the pass side. We are settleing without insurence involved do to our friendship and I'm a SAP :oops: . I will take a pic when it stops raining to show exactly what it looks like. QUESTION COMES HERE: Does anyone have any pointers on knocking a dent out? I can't get full access with a hammer without drilling holes in the bed to beat it out in the high spots. Not to concerned with it being back to a beautiful fender cause i had bent the lower portion wheeling and this is my Fun truck that if it aint pretty OH well i LOVE it. Thanks for any piointers and ill get pics tomm.

 

Cole

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search a paintless dent repair around where you are. they still drill holes but where you can't see them, and use special rods and spoons to push dents out from the back.

 

another route you could go is to find a body panel suction cup for dents. its a big suction cup with a pump on the handle that lets you pull the dent out.

 

If you want it right... then take a grinder and take the paint down to the metal around the dent. find a body man/ shop that has a magna-spot; it welds a stud on the metal and then you use a special slide hammer to pull the dent out, this way you have to seal,prime and paint though. but its the right way to do it. I think I read somewhere that you were in the service... get with your chain and find the auto crafts garage, according if you have one on your post,base they might have the tools to do all of that.

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Try the suction cup first. If that won't do it, Harbor Freight Tools has a body work stud welder that'll do it. Rather than drill holes to pull the dent, it tack weld studs to the surface. You grab the studs with a slide hamemr puller (supplied with the kit), pull the dent (a little at a time on each stud, you don't try to pull the whole thing on one stud in a single shot), then grind off the studs and refinish.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... umber=3223

 

Drilling holes is SOOO 1960s ...

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....the way I'm going to fix the 3800 is a bit unconventional, but was suggested to me by a body man.

 

you know how a jack and hi-lift work obviosly. it was suggested that I use a small floor jack, bottle jack, whatever I can fit, and simply slide it up inside (there's approx. 3" of room where the crease on my truck is) and jack.

 

now, most jacks aren't that small, but there are plenty of alternatives that are similar. something like that would be best IMO

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With whatever method you use these's probably going to be some Bondo involved. One bit of advice: Never use a 1/4 sheet electric sander. Either rent / borrow a long narrow linear action sander or make a sanding block out of a 10" piece of 2x4.

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I like to use a paint paddle with 80 grit wrapped around it as a block on filler. A stright line sander is way faster but its easy to sand too much if your not patient. When sanding filler always spray you a mist of flat black so you can tell where the filler is high or low.

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Try the suction cup first. ...

 

I bumped uglies with a ZJ on the interstate and caved my driver side door in a couple years ago. I used a kitchen plunger to pop it back out. Not perfect, but good enough :D Try that first and see what happens.

 

Jeff

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I have had good luck with a deflated basketball. Just slide it in, pump it up and watch the dent pop out. :brows:

This has worked for me in the past. I am not sure if this will work for your application. It sounds like it might work for JeepcoMJ's situation inplace of the jack. Just make sure you're not too attached to the basketball. :D

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JeepcoMJ:

Just go slow with the pump. In my experience with this, it is best to wait 15-30 seconds between each pump. Longer when you are getting close to where you want to be.

Depending on how severe the dent is or how it is dented, you can actually "over do it".

Good luck! :cheers:

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JeepcoMJ:

Just go slow with the pump. In my experience with this, it is best to wait 15-30 seconds between each pump. Longer when you are getting close to where you want to be.

Depending on how severe the dent is or how it is dented, you can actually "over do it".

Good luck! :cheers:

 

:P

 

10-4. there's a kink on the first body line as well...so that will require some real body work to be done

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JeepcoMJ I am thinking more and mroe our dents are very very similar. I have the same crease but as long as it gets kinda straight I'm fine with it. ANd Joe that is a real goos idea. I was think "how in the hell and i gonna hold and floor jack up in the area and pump it?" But that fixes that. Now i need to buy a baasket ball or football. Oh and the plunger came out first but i didnt get to try it since it gets dark when i get home from work. I will take pics tomm. and see if i can get it. If not OH WELL for now

 

Cole

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Things to consider about dents. Smooth dents (those without a prominent edge or crease) can be easily removed without much hassle, especially if they can be reached from behind. Those with an edge or crease take a little more massaging to make right than simply banging it out. Certain areas of the dent have been stretched. When they are simply bumped back out they typically pop the other way and now present themselves as high spots. A shrinking hammer and dolly will fix them right quick. If they cannot be reached from the back, a little heat followed with a cool damp rag with get things shrunk. There is an alternative to a torch. If you have a 4 1/2" grinder, you can get a shrinking disc. They are usually made from stainless steel with a rolled lip around the edge. You simply go over the raised area like you would when grinding. Heat will build from the friction and once it begins to turn blue, simply squirt it with a water from a squirt bottle. This process works very well, especially for those who are not used to shrinking with a torch. Once things are ready, a thin layer of plastic filler (Bondo is a brand name!!) and your off and running.

 

If you were a little closer I'd tell ya to bring it on over and we'd fix 'er right up!!

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:D

 

good stuff right there, I don't care who you are ;)

 

thanks!

 

hopefully cole can get his fixed a.s.a.p. I can't fix mine until stuff is settled with the other person's insurance...just in case they need to look at it ya kno?

 

I hope I get it all settled here before the salts laid down...it's already rusting where the paint chipped off, and honestly I do not want to have more rust on that truck.

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:D

 

good stuff right there, I don't care who you are ;)

 

thanks!

 

hopefully cole can get his fixed a.s.a.p. I can't fix mine until stuff is settled with the other person's insurance...just in case they need to look at it ya kno?

 

I hope I get it all settled here before the salts laid down...it's already rusting where the paint chipped off, and honestly I do not want to have more rust on that truck.

 

go ahead and get it covered... even with some rattle can juice. if the insurance gives you crap tell'em to kiss it because you didn't want it to rust any more than it has, and if they have a problem with that say "you should not of took your sweetass time!" , " I bet a judge would agree with me!"

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Well Since my truck is flat OD green you can't see it in the pics to weel so i am not bothering with posting any. I didnt work on it today and i have it to a point were i am not worried with it. Its no where near perfect but you don't notice it when you walk up. You now have to actually look for the dent and ruff spots. I am happy enough to call it done for now. I do appreciat the tips but i am not wanting it to be to pretty cause i will prob dent it again wheeling. Thank again

 

Cole

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Cozee made me remenber a trick I've see :D

 

You take a regular hair dryer (wouldn't get hot enought to burn the paint) and heat up the dent (like in a door panel / fender) then while it's still warm, you take a can of compressed CO2 (Duster sold at an office supply) and spray the air over the warm metal, and the dent will pop right out :brows:

 

Sounds crazy.......yea, here watch the video -

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=miNykNl-0NM

 

:nuts: But it works

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