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Key-in chime circuit(solved)


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Alrighty gents. Something that's been bugging me since day one of owning little red. I put the key in with the door open and it never chimes. I had the black box and upgraded to the blue box, both buzzers worked for key-in(bench tested both buzzers). So I tore apart the column and found the little key thing missing. I bought a used one and installed it, still nothing. The only thing I can think of is replacing the whole turn signal cam/switch to remedy the problem but I feel it still won't. Hell for giggles I even installed a NOS ignition cylinder to rid myself of the GM cylinder I had just to see if that would work. 

 

I know when I first got her the PPO tore into the column for some reason which is why the horn never worked until I fixed it.

 

I know it probably annoys some of you but those of you who have it functioning or got it functioning, what did you do to get it to work again? Thoughts?

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2 minutes ago, JMO413 said:

Door ajar switch?

I thought about that, they actually work as they should. There was a time when I was able to make the contacts meet on the signal switch and buzzed as if the key was in but it got old when the key wasn't in so I undid that. I think I will replace the signal switch and see what happens. 

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35 minutes ago, Ωhm said:

Do you cycle the KEY ON then OFF? May have to wake up the Chime Module.

I only get the seatbelt buzzer in the run position. Nothing in on or off.

 

1 minute ago, jdog said:

can you wiggle the key amd get it to buzz? also there is two wires on the drivers door switch

I have tried that and still nothing, I have cleaned both door switches recently to rule out that the switch wasn't the problem.

 

Like I said, I'm gonna replace the signal switch and see if anything changes.

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Alrighty so I am in the process of swapping the turn switch and all that and I decided to make sure the little contact switch was working as it should and it isn't. For what ever reason the spring isn't putting enough pressure on the switch to make contact which seems to be why it won't make a sound. Now I did follow a thread in the DIY that shows the installation of the switch and I don't quite understand. The OP said you need to use a dental pick on the spring to help hold it as you push it in. Not once did he pull the spring out to show how it needs to be on the switch or anything so I'm not sure how the spring should look in case I have the wrong spring. Any ways the circuit works as it should, just my hang up is somewhere between the switch and the ignition/lock cylinder.

Here's the post I'm referring to:

 

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IMG_7463.jpg.d995db8a5309a0e215ac870ba9ee0764.jpg

 

I don't quite understand how this "spring" is supposed to push down and make contact. It looks simple and would work with the plastic prong piece of the ignition cylinder pushing down on the bend of the spring but I can't manipulate it to do the same idea behind the design.

 

Thoughts? 

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I think the spring just hold the switch in place. The ignition cylinder pushes down on the piece of plastic above that slot cutout. Then the two pieces of brass or copper make contact with each other. Just a guess by looking at it.

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2 minutes ago, MJCARENA said:

I think the spring just hold the switch in place. The ignition cylinder pushes down on the piece of plastic above that slot cutout. Then the two pieces of brass or copper make contact with each other. Just a guess by looking at it.

 

 

And youre right, it is. 

 

I dove further into the GM Saginaw Column info and came across that there was two styles of the switch. One like what I have is apparently for tilt! While the non tilt models got a longer switch that makes contact with the ignition cylinder. So I have the switch and spring on the way. My truck never had the original switch so I was going in semi blind on fixing the issue. And also my Mopar parts catalog shows there to be two different switch numbers. J3211424-tilt J3211423-less tilt. Will report back when I get the parts. In the mean time the turn switch has been replaced.

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Alrighty gents, problem has been resolved. From some extensive research and ordering parts, I got a NOS clip and a repro switch for the NON tilt column I got the key-in chime to work as it should. Took me a few minutes to get it adjusted right but once I got it, we were in business and now every electrical component works as it should. 

 

Thanks for the help!

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