Rear main seal damage.....

[Wounded_Fighter]

So tapping out the rear main seal (rms) I unfortunately managed to CRACK THE BLOCK.... how bad is this....

 

 

 

[Pete M]

well... the good news is it's on the dry side of the seal.     that sucks though. 

[Wounded_Fighter]

1 minute ago, Pete M said:

well... the good news is it's on the dry side of the seal.     that sucks though. 

Truth. Idk if it will effect the integrity of the new seal though that's my main concern. 

 

JB weld and send it? All I can think of

[Minuit]

Welcome to the club!

 

Mine is cracked in that same spot. It's fine. Just make sure you follow the FSM procedure exactly when installing the new seal.

[Wounded_Fighter]

3 hours ago, Minuit said:

Welcome to the club!

 

Mine is cracked in that same spot. It's fine. Just make sure you follow the FSM procedure exactly when installing the new seal.

No leak with it missing? 

[Minuit]

52 minutes ago, Wounded_Fighter said:

No leak with it missing? 

Nope.

[SatiricalHen]

I’ve seen them cracked like that before without leaking. What caused the leak the guy had was the seal put in backwards.


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[ghetdjc320]

I’d still recommend a small dab of jb weld on that piece just to keep it in place. Take your time, clean up all oil in that spot, let the jb weld fully cure and install your seal per fsm. Should be good to go. As others have pointed out, it’s not on the “wet” side of the seal.

[ghetdjc320]

And make sure to use the tiniest possible amount of jb weld so you don’t create a high spot somewhere that will give you problems down the road.

[Minuit]

On mine, I didn't even bother to put the chipped piece back in. That was five years ago. I had about a drop of oil every few hours at first, which went down to about a drop a week after I replaced the oil drain plug - that's an overlooked oil leak IMO too.

 

I did use the super expensive Mopar anaerobic sealer on the seal (there's a diagram floating around somewhere of exactly where you're supposed to put the sealer), and I have a feeling that contributed to the success of my repair. I also used the Fel-Pro double lipped seal. My crankshaft didn't show much wear on the seal surface, but on the other hand it wouldn't take much at all to cause a leak there.

 

IMO the main leak point is the interface between the seal halves, and the specific sealer they recommend is very important to make sure there is no leak path between those two halves. If oil gets to that spot on the block, it's already breached the seal and was going to leak out anyway. It sounds catastrophic, but in my experience, no big deal.