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33x10.5 3" Napier


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I got this Jeep, PO installed a 3" lift. I'm fixing rust and rattle canning the whole truck, welding in new floors, etc. I just ordered some Napier flares.

 

Wondering what the consensus would be on 33s at this lift height with the cut out fenders. Obviously I won't be cutting it any more than required for the flares, but if I need to add an inch or two to the lift that's fine too.

 

I'm doing a 4wd conversion on it so I need a new rear driveshaft and the axles are mismatched so a regear is happening regardless. All very open to options at the moment.

 

Part of me wants to go all the way and put the TJ d44s and 37s under it but I'm trying to restrain myself lol

 

 

 

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I ordered a set of 33x10.5s, haven't decided if I'm going to reuse these steel wheels I have now or not. I'm guessing they're in the 3-4" backspacing range, based purely on past experience.  If I need more lift, I'll just get more lift!

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With the flares, you'll clear just fine in a straight line (based on the picture anyways) and won't hit if you bumpstop it correctly (which you should do anyways, regardless on if you get more lift or not).

 

But when you turn...that's where I'm not sure.  It'll be close.

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This is my first unibody Jeep, that's why I'm asking these questions. I've set up several TJs and JKs with full adjustable suspensions, custom arms, etc. I'll make sure there's good clearance everywhere and bump stopped properly. I'm not planning to go wheeling with it but what's the point if it's not able to? Besides, I need to at least take a couple poser shots at the local mall when the paint's done.

 

I'll be interested to see how much metal gets trimmed off with the Napiers. There definitely looks to be nowhere near enough room at the rear of the wheel well.

Just ordered some American Racing Outlaw IIs in 15x8 3.75 flavor, so they're still going to be sticking out there a bit.

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Honestly, it'll come down to backspacing. I'm at 2.5" in the front and I rub under lock and full compression on 31's. I used to rub when turning in reverse, but I sanded down the back of my flares (inside the wheel well) and it cleared pretty well. 

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The Napier’s (which I have and love) don’t give you any more vertical clearance. Most of the trimming is done on the leading and trailing edges of the flares to give a “wider” opening. If you want flares that really open up the wheel wells then I would recommend notch customs flares. I can’t speak as to their quality or fitment but they will open up your wheel wells. IMHO they look sweet if they are molded into the fender and painted body color. The picture attached is not mine but I did get some inspirational que’s from that truck (and a few others). Those are the notch flares

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7 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said:

The Napier’s (which I have and love) don’t give you any more vertical clearance. Most of the trimming is done on the leading and trailing edges of the flares to give a “wider” opening. If you want flares that really open up the wheel wells then I would recommend notch customs flares. I can’t speak as to their quality or fitment but they will open up your wheel wells. IMHO they look sweet if they are molded into the fender and painted body color. The picture attached is not mine but I did get some inspirational que’s from that truck (and a few others). Those are the notch flares

A32A6460-AEA6-40A8-8841-B6811237CE97.jpegDo you have pics of your rig for comparison? 

 

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Weight is on the axles in the photos. Lots of room. Pinch weld can still be hammered back, and flare could also be moved back more if need be. Close ups are at full lock.

 

31x10.5r15 Dick Cepek Extreme Country on 15x8 AR62 American Racing Outlaw II wheels, 3.75" bs.

 

Combo weighs in at 65.9 lbs

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