jrl3 Posted February 26, 2020 Share Posted February 26, 2020 So after reading through quite a few posts, I decided I want to Upgrade my MJ with the WJ Booster/MC and delete the distribution block and Prop. Valve/LSV, and Tee the front lines. I bought new parts off ebay for the WJ Booster and MC, not OEM. I assume this will work fine? I also got the Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve p/n 260-8419. The Wilwood valve says "disc brakes" across the top, I assume it's still work fine for rear drums? My main question, I'm a novice mechanic and changing pads/rotors/bleeding is about the extent of my brake work. Should I leave this to a professional or can someone spoon feed me the parts/tools I would need to complete this job lol? I don't mind spending a couple bucks on flexible lines and stuff of that nature if it will make the job easier for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted February 26, 2020 Share Posted February 26, 2020 Your stock proportioning valve should be just fine, why are you looking to remove it? I certainly wouldn't recommend using an adjustable unless you know what you are doing, could be very dangerous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrl3 Posted February 26, 2020 Author Share Posted February 26, 2020 The way I read things, the MJ distro/prop valve is significant bottle-neck in front braking system due to its smaller orifice size than the actual lines. Plus is doesn't actually proportion rear brakes (to my understanding), the LSV does that. I don't tow/haul anything of signifigance to utilize the LSV anyways, just another thing to break really. I can always turn up the pressure in rear if I am hauling something via the wilwood valve. So basically, I get better braking in the front and the ability to adjust the rears manually. It's not all that complicated to dial in the rear brakes via the valve, just to the point where fronts lock up just before rears and you're good. Of course dialing it in perfectly for different loads is not feasible but I doubt I would ever haul anything big enough to even worry about adjusting the valve once I set it right for no load honestly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted February 26, 2020 Share Posted February 26, 2020 Can you lock your brakes at full pedal application? Do you have plans of running very large or very sticky tires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrl3 Posted February 26, 2020 Author Share Posted February 26, 2020 25 minutes ago, Minuit said: Can you lock your brakes at full pedal application? Do you have plans of running very large or very sticky tires? Right now the booster is shot, so I can hardly stop at all... It has 35's on it now, I might move down to 34-33 tho Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted February 27, 2020 Share Posted February 27, 2020 I ran the wilwood setup on my YJ with hydroboost brakes and it worked great. It’s not a “true” proportioning valve but it does help distribute the load. A true proportioning valve dynamically adjusts instead of just being a static reduction in pressure. The stock mj distribution block works just fine though for stock brake setups. Be sure to check the vacuum going to the booster and don’t get too big of a master cylinder bore. Some black magic pads will help also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted February 27, 2020 Share Posted February 27, 2020 I ran the 260-11179 valve. Has a nice bracket to bolt to the MC too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted February 27, 2020 Share Posted February 27, 2020 The distro block is exactly that. A block. The passages to the front brakes are smaller than an XJ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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