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Pete said I should post something about my Cherokee. Well here she is in all her beaten glory. Got it back in 2013 bone stock. Now it has a 5.5” lift with RE coil springs, IRO leafs, Boostwerks shackles, and HD offroad no lift shackle relocation boxes. 4.6 stroker, bored TB, 4 hole injectors. XO-fab cage with extra tubes. 2x6 sliders which hold the air from my viair 444c compressors. PRP harnesses with stock Cherokee seats for now. Locked front and rear, d30 8.25, 4.56 gears front is sleeved and c gusseted. Probably missing stuff because I’ve done so much. Anyone want to know anything specific?

 

 

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nice tie-in spot!  :L:  you do some great work.

I don’t get the credit for the welds, I had the idea to tie it to the fire wall, to move some of the tubes and add tube to the inside, and to use the clamps on the a pillar, but I didn’t weld it. I can weld, but I had Tommy Glenn weld the cage for me. He’s a local fab guy who builds the ultra 4 chassis for Chris May.
A) he knows what he’s doing as he’s been welding longer than I’ve been alive.
B) I don’t have a welder strong enough for structural work
C) if I had messed some angles up or spaced something wrong I would know about it and it would drive me crazy forever.
It was very reasonable to have it all welded up, tube added and have some 2x6 added to my bumper80f7a82e57c2c5afb70a2984b97a8495.jpg


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I’ve been really wanting some tube fenders so I can keep trees away from the body and keep some mud off the windows. I also want to do some more tube work in the front. I’ve been thinking tubes under the fender and out the headerpanel to a stinger or grill hoop of sorts so if it goes over the radiator doesn’t get smashed.


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Great toy. I also like the cage. 
 
Where did you get the Stroker done at, or did you do it yourself? And are you happy you did it?
 

I had the machine work done at Dover cylinder head and I put it together. Used the clegg stage 1 stroker with stage 1 cam. I’m not super thrilled with the performance. There’s definitely more power, but I feel like there’s something that’s not quite right. Everyone says their strokers scream and make tons of power and mine seems marginally better than the 4.0 with a blown headgasket and 200k. My Comanche has a HO head, 99+ intake, volvo injectors, and comp cam and it seems like it boogies a whole lot better. It’s also comparing apples to oranges since my Cherokee is lifted, 35s, cage, auto, and weighs 4800 lbs and my Comanche is 2wd stick shift stock height street tires.


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I here a lot more people say that they have issues with their strokers motors than I hear it’s great. I have always like to have one, but I don’t know with the lack of positive reviews :dunno:. I talk to an engine rebuilder that does a lot of the 4.0s and asked him if I should do a mild cam etc when I have him rebuild it. He was I don’t think I should. Going to be more than enough with the rebuild and dependable. It was the first machine shop did not push me towards performance this and that. That had me sold. I am now at a point in my life that I just want simple and reliable. 

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I here a lot more people say that they have issues with their strokers motors than I hear it’s great. I have always like to have one, but I don’t know with the lack of positive reviews :dunno:. I talk to an engine rebuilder that does a lot of the 4.0s and asked him if I should do a mild cam etc when I have him rebuild it. He was I don’t think I should. Going to be more than enough with the rebuild and dependable. It was the first machine shop did not push me towards performance this and that. That had me sold. I am now at a point in my life that I just want simple and reliable. 

The Comanche motor with a mild cam and just the “best” of the 4.0 combo (HO head, renix block, 99+ intake). The goal was a little kick, but still super simple and super reliable. I would recommend that, I don’t know if I’d recommend a stroker yet. Still up in the air on that. I used the comp cam SK68-115-4 kit in my Comanche and I’ve had 10,000 trouble free miles (at least cam related, had some Renix electrical stuff but that’s to be expected).


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Love it :D 

 

is the white stripe down the middle of the brake lights a backup light? 

 

don't forget to add a grill guard to the sub. :L:  I know guys that have lost a sub from items rolling around in their Jeep.  :( 

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Love it  
 
is the white stripe down the middle of the brake lights a backup light? 
 
don't forget to add a grill guard to the sub. :L:  I know guys that have lost a sub from items rolling around in their Jeep.   

I keep everything tightly strapped down in my Cherokee. I added some beefy tie downs to secure the spare tire and axle shafts because I know what can happen when things become projectiles. I’d like to put a guard on it, but haven’t found anything that fits well yet. Apparently this sub is on the larger side of 8” subs. Also, the strip is the turn signal. The open holes are reverse lights I’m waiting on. If I could do it again I would go with a different brand with more generic cut outs. There is only one place I can find the 2.5” flange mount round light required for the circle in the back of the armor which they say you can install either turn signal or reverse lights in. I opted for turn signal built into the oval and 2.5” reverse lights. Another company I’ve seen uses flush mount pods for their reverse lights and I feel that would be a much better option, but it’s too late now. It looks good and I’ll work, just more frustration than I was expecting trying to find what I wanted.


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ahhh. :L:  the ones I've seen had built in reverse and then the red flashed.  good to know there are other options available.   

I probably should have done red with the reverse for the oval and the a 2.5” amber as it was not on back order when I placed my order, but I thought I would like the turn in the oval better. Oh well we’re here now and it looks good so far. Hopefully the lights hold up well and I can focus on other things. cd175187a70f8365d52e00af3961b025.jpg
Found the ad for the lights I ended up running. Next on the list is relocating the CB antenna as the mount shared the tail light bolt before and this armor gets in the way. I have an idea of what I want to do and I think it’ll turn out pretty nifty. Just need to get the time to actually do it.


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On 2/23/2020 at 10:37 AM, SatiricalHen said:

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Added some quarter panel armor and a sub yesterday

 

Still waiting on the reverse lights which are on back order.

 

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Love that quarter panel armor. I need something like that for my FZJ80. 

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Love that quarter panel armor. I need something like that for my FZJ80. 

There’s a guy that makes it, it’s just a whole lot more expensive. I’ll have to ask my buddy who makes it. He had an 80 till he blew it up.


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Kind of hard to see, but I got my CB antenna installed. Removed the factory radio antenna and use its location. For some reason I’m having trouble getting the SWR down. It’s currently a little over 3, which is not good. The mount is grounded, the coax has continuity on both the hot and ground, but no shorts. Screwed the coax into the antenna and the antenna has continuity with the other end of the coax and again not shorts to ground. Above 3 on channel 1 and 40.


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Tried a Wilson 2000 trucker on it and it got tbe SWR lower, but it’s right under 3, so still not great. There are not shorts in the coax and there’s continuity where there should be. I’m thinking it may just not be great quality or something. I’ve never had much issue getting a low SWR before.


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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Well the trucker didn’t last, out a firestik on it and that’s what it’s going to have. Anyway now that that’s concluded. It runs like crap and sounds terrible. I can’t figure out the issue and it’s been parked for months. Finally put some spark plugs back in it to make a video of the sound. If anyone has any ideas let me know.




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