Jump to content

Just got an ‘04 Tj rubicon. It’s 4.0 does not feel as peppy


Kickin’Chicken
 Share

Recommended Posts

as the 4.0 in my old ‘99 Tj. Both have manual transmissions (‘99 had ax15, rubi has nv3550) so that’s pretty even but at low rpm this rubi doesn’t have the umpf that ‘99 had. 
 

Did Jeep reduce the exhaust ports or something in the later model  4.0s? Seems like I’ve read that here somewhere. 
 

 

BTW, still working on my MJ. The damn fuel pump isn’t pumping anymore so looks like I’ve got to drop the tank again (thinking seriously about cutting an access hatch in the bed to get to it easier.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, Pete M said:

congrats!  :L: 

 

what size tires?

36” on both. And I’m not sure of the weight differences but I’ve probably got less weight on this rubi. The ‘99 had a heavy rear bumper/spare tire carrier and a highlift on the hood as well as a warm upright winch with cable. Rubi has stock rear bumper, smittybuilt winch with nylon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bought my TJ Rubi (4.0) with a blown motor, so I stuck a WJ motor in there while I rebuilt the stock motor. When I got around to installing the fresh motor, I expected to gain a seat-of-the-pants improvement in power. Actually, the opposite occurred, I could clearly feel that the fresh motor (built to stock specs) was not as peppy as the WJ motor. The machinist and myself discussed and researched what the difference was, and it turned out the cam in the TJ 4.0 was different. Both the WJ and TJ 4.0's felt way under powered in comparison to a HO XJ or MJ 4.0. I blame updated emissions system and coil on rail design.

 

On 1/23/2020 at 10:35 AM, Kickin’Chicken said:

Does anyone know much about the locking diffs in the ‘04 rubicon?

 

my rear locker Indicator light blinks momentarily then stays lit. The front one just blinks (never stays lit.) They both lock the axles fine but just wondering what the difference is. 

Does the front compressor keep running or does it shut off? Are you sure the front is locking? If the front diff fill plug is tightened too much, it can prevent the locker from locking or unlocking. There is no stopper on the diff cover for the fill plug, so you just wrap the threads with Teflon tape and screw it in a little ways.

 

There is also a switch on the locker that sends the 'locked' signal to the dash light. This switch is probably not working if the axle is really locked.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/24/2020 at 3:54 PM, 87Warrior said:

I bought my TJ Rubi (4.0) with a blown motor, so I stuck a WJ motor in there while I rebuilt the stock motor. When I got around to installing the fresh motor, I expected to gain a seat-of-the-pants improvement in power. Actually, the opposite occurred, I could clearly feel that the fresh motor (built to stock specs) was not as peppy as the WJ motor. The machinist and myself discussed and researched what the difference was, and it turned out the cam in the TJ 4.0 was different. Both the WJ and TJ 4.0's felt way under powered in comparison to a HO XJ or MJ 4.0. I blame updated emissions system and coil on rail design.

 

Does the front compressor keep running or does it shut off? Are you sure the front is locking? If the front diff fill plug is tightened too much, it can prevent the locker from locking or unlocking. There is no stopper on the diff cover for the fill plug, so you just wrap the threads with Teflon tape and screw it in a little ways.

 

There is also a switch on the locker that sends the 'locked' signal to the dash light. This switch is probably not working if the axle is really locked.

Has anyone tried using a ‘99 motor distributor in place of the coil rail?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/23/2020 at 8:54 PM, Pete M said:

oh, I guess I assumed we were talking about on-road performance.  :doh:

On road the engine doesn’t seem as peppy either but I really notice hill climbs and letting it crawl under its own idle. The ‘99 wasn’t as low but seems like it had more torque. Anyway.....my questions centered on the engine performance and not on gearing. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Kickin’Chicken said:

Has anyone tried using a ‘99 motor distributor in place of the coil rail?

While not impossible, it's not really feasible. The camshaft position sensor functions very different than a distributor. You could do it, but you would need to gut the engine bay and replace all wiring and computer with parts from a TJ with a distributor. Kind of like going from Renix to HO in the MJ.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The power difference between coil packs and distributor is non existent. They are rated the same and feel the same between my stock 99 XJ and stock 00 XJ.

The gearing will make a difference on how the power feels. With 4.56’s it will feel like you have more power because you have a larger lever in the gear case.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've have/had two '98 XJs, both autos. I kid of feel there was a power difference between those two engines. On my present one I have it lifted 31's not 32's. I did bore out the TB to 60mm. That gave it more power. Then I installed a 62mm. Seemed not as powerful.  It notice it on my WV travels. I went from Ford 4 holes to Bosh 12 holes. Not real change. 

      I picked up an '00 over the summer. I have not had it on the open road, just around the block. It seems to have as good as power as either of them. I think what ever power they might have lost in the exhaust ports and cast exhaust manifolds, they made up elsewhere.  Some say the distributor less ignition adds a bit of power.  There is a Viper Coil replacement. I do have the parts. But have not replaced that yet. I am forgetting who I bought it from. 

Edit: K Suspension

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a new project on this Rubicon and forgive me for tacking it on to this thread. The PO threw in a SS header. He bought it but never put it on. I’m thinking about either replacing the head with a 7120(?) and installing the new SS header or installing it on my existing head and enlarging the ports with little grinder bits. I’m also surprised that it only has 3 bolt holes for fastening it to the head. Do the factory exhaust manifolds only have 3 bolts?

 

17C00197-F9C3-48E3-B119-E68DED8B00DA.jpeg.611b9024a36ba4c330124f885c2a5dc8.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...