reevesmanche87 Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 is there anyone who could link me with either a video or a detailed description of how to remove the carburetor in my '87 jeep comanche? I'm having a really hard time since the Haynes manual isnt telling me what I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 Carb? Which engine? 2.5L 4cyl or 4.0L 6cyl? 2.5L has Throttle Body Injection or TBI and the 4.0L has multipoint fuel injection. So what you would have to remove is just throttle bodies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reevesmanche87 Posted January 1, 2020 Author Share Posted January 1, 2020 48 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said: Carb? Which engine? 2.5L 4cyl or 4.0L 6cyl? 2.5L has Throttle Body Injection or TBI and the 4.0L has multipoint fuel injection. So what you would have to remove is just throttle bodies. it's the 2.5L 4cyl, my bad I meant to mention that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 The '87 2.5L should have a throttle body injection, not a carburetor. The throttle body isn't hard to remove -- disconnect the throttle linkage, disconnect the fuel inlet line, unbolt it, take it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 The TBI has both a fuel supply and return line, both screw into the top/back side. I would use flare nut wrenches to remove them (they are different sizes). I clip the electrical connector for the injector (carefully) ans pull it out of the way. Disconnect the IAC connector, remove the MAP sensor vacuum line and unbolt the 4 manifold bolts holding the TB to the manifold. Carefully lift the TB up and off (take care not to rip the base gasket so you can reuse it upon reinstallation. A1/4" drive socket with a universal/swivel will help to get the manifold bolts off, as a couple of them are recessed underneath the TB. Why are you removing it in the first place? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reevesmanche87 Posted January 1, 2020 Author Share Posted January 1, 2020 14 hours ago, mjeff87 said: The TBI has both a fuel supply and return line, both screw into the top/back side. I would use flare nut wrenches to remove them (they are different sizes). I clip the electrical connector for the injector (carefully) ans pull it out of the way. Disconnect the IAC connector, remove the MAP sensor vacuum line and unbolt the 4 manifold bolts holding the TB to the manifold. Carefully lift the TB up and off (take care not to rip the base gasket so you can reuse it upon reinstallation. A1/4" drive socket with a universal/swivel will help to get the manifold bolts off, as a couple of them are recessed underneath the TB. Why are you removing it in the first place? I'm removing it so I can clean it. when I got the truck, it was in terrible condition and barely ran but since then I've gotten it to where it will run decently but not good enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 Chances are the terrible running could be vacuum lines being plugged or broke, exhaust manifold cracked or not tight against the head or sensors going and or are bad. Possibly dirty grounds as well. Anytime anyone acquires a new to them MJ, we have them hit up Cruiser54's Renix tips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 Can't hurt any to pull and clean it, but you'll probably get marginal gains from it. I'd look more toward vacuum leaks like 'scout says. Refresh all the grounds and check the intake/exhaust manifold bolts/nuts. Odds are the rear exhaust stud/nut is snapped off, too. The 2.5 relies on 4 sensors for proper operation...O2, MAP, MAT and coolant sensors. Make sure all of them are in good shape and the wiring (and vac line) for the MAP are intact. Throw a new cap/rotor on it that has brass terminals (NAPA has them), and toss a set of plain old Champion truck plugs in it too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 I'd do what is recommended above FIRST! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbulliwagen Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 My 87 2.5 sat for 4 years before I got it. It ran , but just barely. I did all the usual tune up stuff, and several bottles of fuel system cleaner through it. It all helped but it kept having a lingering stumbling issue. I finally replaced the oxygen sensor, and its run great ever since. Go through Cruisers tips and throw an O2 sensor in there and see what happens. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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