Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Aaron

WJ Dana 30 info

Recommended Posts

I’ve been doing ALOT of research and am about to start gathering parts for my MJ. I’m doing a 4x4 swap to my rwd 89 MJ longbed. I’ve decided on a 9” rear out a 74-86 f150 which is 65” wms to wms. The WJ dana 30 is the same width so It got me thinking. I know the lug pattern is different but is that all I’ll have to deal with? I would love it if it’d just bolt right up, there’s hardly anything I can find on the subject and what I did find was “it’s wider and why would you want to do that” (maybe that’s a sign) but I gotta know. I really would like to get a front 44 out a mid 70’s f150 but I have no welding skills (which I would love to change) or might be low on $ after I get a trans TC and rear end. My front end is the last thing I haven’t made my mind up on yet. I’m getting a 231 tc and AX15 trans 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

welcome to the club! :waving:

 

rotors can be redrilled. :L: 

 

I have said 9" under the back of my truck (with the matching 44 up front with the stock Ford radius arm suspension).  It's nothing special except for the extra pinion bearing and that only matters if you're pushing super high horsepower.  :dunno: and no one can tell me it's invincible as I cracked my diff on a rock. :doh:  If I had to do it again, I'd just have an Dana 30 up front and a Liberty 8.25 out back (super common, it's a couple inches wider than the stock MJ rear axles, and has disks). 

 

what tire and engine combo? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

WJ d30 won't bolt up. Not even close. You'll have to fab brackets and deal with other things. You can though do the WJ knuckle swap on the d30 which is a great upgrade but requires work and $. What size tires are you running? What terrain are you building it for? As pete said D30 and 8.25 is a solid axle choice. You "can" run 35s on them if properly built. Thats what I'll eventually run on mine. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

4.0 and 37’s are the end game for the tires. I was just curious about the WJ setup cuz if it was a pretty straight forward swap I’d opt for it instead of the Ford d44. I sold my 90 xj about a year ago and it already had the lift tires sye and all that it just had a whole bunch a other problems that I fixed and is the reason I fell in love with these jeeps as silly as that sounds lol. Point being it’s pretty exciting to start from scratch, and it gives me the opportunity to learn more! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

q78 tires could be up my ally too, but I don’t know too much about um and I’m not to sure about a bias ply keeping in mind I’m going to be driving her to and from wheeling trips which most of the time is 30min or so each way (about 25 miles) 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

running 37s on a tight budget can be... challenging.  doubly so if you're relying on someone else's welding.  But then again, I built mine with a drill, $10 grinder, and a $70 harbor fright stick welder that couldn't weld squat.  I tacked things together and hauled them to a local guy to melt it together for good. :D 

 

have you thought about axles from a SuperDuty? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Never thought about the 8 lug life, I read another thread On the front ford 44 swap where you had mentioned tacking everything and taking it in which would be advice I would take. There’s a weld shop right down the road from me. I just don’t want to run 2.5” wheel spacers if I can avoid it. I think I can get away with 37’s on a d30 from a WJ but wheel spacers on an xj one no bueno 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

WJ 30 isn't worth the work to swap. It is wider yes. But, that just makes the tube weaker on the long side. Hell, if you are that fired up to put a crap axle in your rig... use the WJ 44 in the rear also.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lol, yeah I realized late last night looking at WJ axles that it seems to be around the same amount of work as the ford 44. I think I’m just going to do the 44 and be done with it. I feel pretty confident between what I can learn and the right help I can get, to get it tacked up and let a pro weld it. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

don't discount the super duty axles just yet.  more beef is better with 37s  :D 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Honestly, I wouldn't even bother with a 44/9 combo for 37's. 35's sure but you're getting into an area that that axle combo will be pushed. For the amount of work/cost go with tons and be done. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And that’s where I’m getting conflicting info. A good buddy of mine has run 37’s on his 85 bronco for a few years without problem and that’s with stock axles. That’s what got me researching for my MJ. (And that’s the 28 spline) so i figured between the the 31 spline 9” in the back and the reduced overall weight (bout a half ton diff IIRC) I should be golden 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And as far as how I wheel..I don’t need to traverse rock half the size of my truck or be hanging off the side of a cliff to be having a good time. And I usually am followed by my wife in her 2 door Tahoe and the 3 kids divided up between the two rigs. Point being I wheel like I’m 70 years old and VERY rarely do I push the limits of my skills/vehicle. drive to live, love to drive right?? Lol 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A 44/9 combo isn't bad. I have said axles that eventually will go under something just haven't figured out what. It is a great combo for running 35s-37s just not hard. Yes you can build them up to take the abuse but $ for $ tons will always win. Downside of tons is the weight. The 44/9 is a lot lighter, but if there is one thing I've learned from wheeling is that overbuilt is rarely a problem. You're alos going to need to add a good amount to the unibody and such to take the abuse of 37's.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Didn’t think frame strengtheners. I’ll look into 1 tons. I assume they’re going to be more pricey. Either way it’ll definitely be worth gathering the information I can so I can make the most informed decision I can. And just to clarify for me. The abuse the tires are putting because of the weight, correct??  Just asking because I understand the q78 is much narrower than a Normal 35/36” tire and in tern reducing the weight. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

weight plus leverage.  the taller the tires, the higher the forces.  I ran 33s on my 44/9 because I needed to drive it home too. :L:  giant tires are just headaches to me.  I don't need any more of those.

 

but anyway, the best part of the superduty axles is that they are showing up in the pull your part yards.  $150 for a dana 50/60 axle?  yes please! :D  the key is being fast.  if you have a Pull-a-Part or LKQ yard near you, they will send emails when a new whatever hits the yards. 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That’s a great point..I got a u pull-it here in town that sells full assemblies for $130 plus a $25 core and tax. they usually try to stock newer vehicles tho. Feel like I won the lotto if they have a Renix Cherokee to pick from but I’ll do some reading tonight. My brother in law is a diesel mech by trade so I’ll see if I can buy him a 6 pack and pick his brain too!! Thanks again gentlemen!! Sure are saving me a whole lotta time. I’ll make sure to pay it forward 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Krustyballer on here is making up frame stiffners. Id suggest waiting for his to relase rather than getting the others. I havent done anything yet but apparently there's a major fitment issues with the others that are out there. Anywho.... Every axle will have its weak point and you're just selecting where you want tour fuse to be. Example, D30 you'll probably snap a ujoint before grenading the r/p. 37 s just become the tetter point for moving up to tons. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Found an d44 out of a 70’s F250. Guy is a mutual acquaintance of a family friend. He wants $175 for it which seems like a steal. He said it’s in good shape but the price has me thinking (and he said he’d pull it for me). I think if it’s not a pile of rust and has the welded wedges I’ll pick it up. I know low pinion but worse come to worse it could be a good for bartering lol. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×