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Cali Cruse

New clutch/pedal assembly - still difficulty getting into gear

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Hello,

 

Last year we had difficulties being able to shift into gear, so a transmission mechanic recommended replacing the clutch, clutch bearing and replacing clutch/pedal assembly. Well we did all that and still the problem persists. It's almost like the clutch isn't fully engaging to allow me to grab the needed gear.

 

Any thoughts? Thanks.

 

6 inline, 5-speed, 4x4, 1991 Pioneer.

 

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Why did he replace the clutch pedal assembly, and what did he replace it with?

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Why did he replace the clutch pedal assembly, and what did he replace it with?
He replaced it with a 92 Cherokee clutch pedal assembly. He noticed that before the assembly was all jerry rigged and was resulting in wobbly brake pedal and clutch not engaging. His words.

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Sounds more to me like the clutch is not DISengaging.

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Sounds more to me like the clutch is not DISengaging.
That's what I believe to be the case. I'm stumped as to what else to replace? Some sort of linkage or other component. The biggest challenge has always been 1st gear and the reverse. So if the clutch is not disengaging, which makes sense, what else could it be? Calibration?

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I had a similar problem with my 1989 4.0 / AX15. I replaced the complete clutch, slave cylinder, master cylinder. There was no air in the clutch system. You could get it into 1st gear and reverse when you first started the engine cold. After driving for a few minutes it would become very difficult to get into gear (hard to push into 1st gear and grinding reverse gear). I replaced the plastic bushing on the master cylinder rod and clutch pedal. It was a little better but not right. Removing the floor mat so the clutch pedal would go all the way to the floorboard helped a bit.  I decided that the master cylinder piston was not being pushed all the way into its bore, there by not completely pushing the slave cylinder into the pressure plate and releasing the clutch. I added 5 mm of length to the master cylinder rod and my problems went away. It is surprising that the factory didn't include a way to remove the slack in the clutch pedal system. Does anyone know of an adjustable clutch rod? 

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I had a similar problem with my 1989 4.0 / AX15. I replaced the complete clutch, slave cylinder, master cylinder. There was no air in the clutch system. You could get it into 1st gear and reverse when you first started the engine cold. After driving for a few minutes it would become very difficult to get into gear (hard to push into 1st gear and grinding reverse gear). I replaced the plastic bushing on the master cylinder rod and clutch pedal. It was a little better but not right. Removing the floor mat so the clutch pedal would go all the way to the floorboard helped a bit.  I decided that the master cylinder piston was not being pushed all the way into its bore, there by not completely pushing the slave cylinder into the pressure plate and releasing the clutch. I added 5 mm of length to the master cylinder rod and my problems went away. It is surprising that the factory didn't include a way to remove the slack in the clutch pedal system. Does anyone know of an adjustable clutch rod? 
What you described is 100% what my girlfriend has been reporting and something I can personally confirm as well.

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When the transmission oil is cold and thick, it will act as a brake and stop the gears from turning in the transmission. This makes it easier to shift into gear. After you drive a bit, the oil thins and the gears want to keep turning. I actually made my clutch rod adjustable when I added length to it. I don't know what the root cause of the problem is, but I would guess that the replacement clutch components you can buy today are slightly different from original.

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Looks like a harness? Mechanic told me that's what I need to resolve shifting issues I've been having.

 

Got stuck yesterday in middle of rush hour traffic. Ick. Not fun.2fcabc45d508bc858b889b8adcdea061.jpg

 

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That is the complete system.....master line and slave

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You have a '91. That part is for the 94 thru 96. It's a complete system, pre-filled and pre-bled, including the clutch master cylinder (the part on the left) and the EXTERNAL clutch slave cylinder (the part on the right). You have an internal slave cylinder.

 

So' having sold you a clutch replacement that didn't solve your problem, this guy now wants to sell you parts that won't even fit your vehicle? Why are you even talking to this moron?

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You have a '91. That part is for the 94 thru 96. It's a complete system, pre-filled and pre-bled, including the clutch master cylinder (the part on the left) and the EXTERNAL clutch slave cylinder (the part on the right). You have an internal slave cylinder.
 
So' having sold you a clutch replacement that didn't solve your problem, this guy now wants to sell you parts that won't even fit your vehicle? Why are you even talking to this moron?
Well I'll tell you this...I certainly dodged a bullet. I didn't buy the part, thankfully, just trying to eliminate any low hanging fruit with parts that aren't expensive. Although a part of me is beginning to suspect that we may have a synchro problem and that's a high cost repair.

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I don't think you have a synchro problem. I don't think your genius mechanic bled your clutch completely.

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does the trans shift ok with the engine off? 

 

and for what it's worth, I've driven home without the clutch pedal. :D  it's not fun, but very possible.  it involves turning the truck off at each complete stop and using the starter motor to get the truck moving again.  then it's just a matter of matching rpms to shift cleanly.  it's not advised to try it in stop-n- go rush hour traffic though. :(  

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also, be sure to fill out your signature with the basic truck specs. :L: 

 

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