Jump to content

Clueless Modifications


Recommended Posts

I have almost zero mechanical knowledge, so any input advice or warnings are greatly appreciated.

 

1. I rebuilt a 4.0L that came out of a '96 Cherokee and next Thurs, Fri and Sat I will be swapping it with my '87 Comanche Pioneer 4.0L engine.  I don't know what challenges I will encounter.

2. I plan to delete my EGR equipment, including the catalytic converter (if my truck has one?) and I will replace it with an intermediate pipe.

3. I am replacing the CCV system with a PCV system with an oil catch can and breather filter.

 

Anything else easy I can do to make it run better or make under the hood less busy?  I'm also going to try to replace all my vacuum lines while I'm at it, but don't know the diameter, etc., yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's some pics of the rebuild...unfortunatley, I don't take a lot of pictures.  The valve cover is just a temp while on polishing an aluminum one.  The masking tape is still on the engine in the last pic.

 

 

 

boredhonedcyls.jpg

cranky_block.jpg

orange.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

39 minutes ago, Jeep Driver said:

I'm assuming your block went to the machinist? You didn't have it decked, why?

 

My immediate answer would be to please refer to the thread title, i.e. "Clueless", but after that I would say I didn't send my block to anybody.  I have a mechanic and machinist with something like 40 years rebuilding engines kind of directing me as I'm using a corner of his shop.  He helped me bore and hone the cylinders and he didn't think anything else was needed with the block.  I did send the head to a specialist, etc.

 

What would be the benefit of having it decked?  (For future reference)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, Katalyzt13 said:

 

My immediate answer would be to please refer to the thread title, i.e. "Clueless", but after that I would say I didn't send my block to anybody.  I have a mechanic and machinist with something like 40 years rebuilding engines kind of directing me as I'm using a corner of his shop.  He helped me bore and hone the cylinders and he didn't think anything else was needed with the block.  I did send the head to a specialist, etc.

 

What would be the benefit of having it decked?  (For future reference)

Did you just hone the bores or actually bore? If you bored, how?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

decking is machining the surface of the block, where the heads meet the block, to have zero clearance with the piston at top dead center. In most cases if you were not blowing head gaskets it is not warranted. If you wanted to increase compression a easy way is to deck it. decking can bring your piston and valve very close together, so to much could cause issues. Here in the Shop we deck engines that want extra compression with a longer stroke mainly on v8 engines. Most people do this for dragging and race applications around here. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, dvitha said:

decking is machining the surface of the block, where the heads meet the block, to have zero clearance with the piston at top dead center. In most cases if you were not blowing head gaskets it is not warranted. If you wanted to increase compression a easy way is to deck it. decking can bring your piston and valve very close together, so to much could cause issues. Here in the Shop we deck engines that want extra compression with a longer stroke mainly on v8 engines. Most people do this for dragging and race applications around here. 

Decking also provides a new mating surface for the head/gasket. 

It's a long block, corrects any warping, 4.0s run hot. 

Also, brings deck in line with the crank. Even from the factory, decks are out from #1 to #6. 

 

Matter of practice, not just for drag racing. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, Jeep Driver said:

Did you just hone the bores or actually bore? If you bored, how?

 

The machinist/mechanic I mentioned has fabricated tools for this in his machine shop.  We used these tools in a large milling machine.  One of the tools is to make sure you're perfectly centered in the cylinder, the other is adjustable and bores out the cylinder, I don't know how to explain how it works - it just slowly cuts out material to whatever measurement you set it for. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Katalyzt13 said:

 

The machinist/mechanic I mentioned has fabricated tools for this in his machine shop.  We used these tools in a large milling machine.  One of the tools is to make sure you're perfectly centered in the cylinder, the other is adjustable and bores out the cylinder, I don't know how to explain how it works - it just slowly cuts out material to whatever measurement you set it for. 

And square to the crank line, right?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Jeep Driver said:

And square to the crank line, right?

 

Yes, the milling machine was set up so everything was square and then the block was secured.

 

Any issues I might encounter putting it into my '87 Pioneer?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Katalyzt13 said:

 

Yes, the milling machine was set up so everything was square and then the block was secured.

 

Any issues I might encounter putting it into my '87 Pioneer?

I'm sure it will be fine, it will run..........that said, read here-

https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1148200

 

The center of an engine's universe revolves around the crank. It's just amazes me that people do not seek out a good machinist, then they do not discuss every aspect of the build with the machinist, and are not willing to pay $500 to have a block set up correctly. 

 

Crank first. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, Jeep Driver said:

I'm sure it will be fine, it will run..........that said, read here-

https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1148200

 

The center of an engine's universe revolves around the crank. It's just amazes me that people do not seek out a good machinist, then they do not discuss every aspect of the build with the machinist, and are not willing to pay $500 to have a block set up correctly. 

 

Crank first. 

 

Thanks, Jeep Driver.  I just want to reiterate that the individual helping me is a machinist with a full shop who does this for a living and has been rebuilding engines for 40 years.  He rebuilds engines on the side, his main job is fabricating robotic factory equipment and machines for large scale manufacturing.  We have everything down to better than factory tolerances when the engine was manufactured.  My reservations have nothing to do with the engine itself, but rather with the swap and making everything mesh well together when I'm done.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, cruiser54 said:

Here's things to consider when using an HO engine in a Renix vehicle.

 

http://cruiser54.com/?p=100

 

I think you wrote the start of that article to be really confusing, as you listed TJ and WJ blocks as interchanging in the second bullet point, then in a later bullet point indicated they don't interchange with the XJ/ZJ.  For a guy thin slicing the article, he will be lead to believe they interchange with the XJ/MJ block as that's the only factory installation of a Renix, and the article is about using a newer engine with Renix controls.

 

IMHO you should have said in that second bullet point that they interchange with each other, but not with the XJ/MJ/ZJ.

 

 

Anyways, I'd put the HO intake, exhaust, downpipe, TB on and adapt the TPS.  Using the HO stuff is cleaner, since you've got the HO head to bolt it to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Eagle said:

 

Apparently so. What was the point?

 This is not about the OP.

 

Find any block to build........pull one out of thin air. 

 

How do you know it's not warped? 

How do you know the deck is parallel to the crank?

 

Low end build, scat crank, cam, bearings, rings, pistons, gaskets, valve job, timing chain, oil pump........etc........

Easy $900 to $1200 in parts, not to mention time, effort, misc such as paint, plugs, wires............on and on......

 

 

And you won't pay $80 to resurface the deck?????????

 

But you got a ruler and a feeler gauge, right?

I don't live in the world of .0001, nor do you, so I pay someone who does. 

 

 

 

As to the link I posted, dude screwed the pooch, for the lack of communication with the machinist. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I been rebuilding motor's from a to z for 32 years now. At lest 5000 done by my own hands, in my shop. I have decked engines, however never once it was because the block was warped. Every single time I did was at a customers request. Even the racer 3 cylinders that come in with a aluminum blocks, never seem to be warped, and they run high turbo charge levels.

We all get the fact that it needs to be checked, which I agree. That can be done in 5 minutes with the right tools.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...