Kwebb9 Posted April 18, 2018 Share Posted April 18, 2018 So got my 91 big ton 2wd and was thinking of doing a complete 97+ swap with interior and front end and doors.then I remembered that I have a couple of LS 5.3, 5.7, and 6.0L lying around doing nothing and the 4.0L that’s in the MJ goes through oil like BP. Mainly wondering on how much of the 97 and up harness I would have to keep to make all the new interior parts function (radio, heat, electric windows and mirrors.) I was planning on using an aftermarket cluster to make it easier to with the GM motor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted April 18, 2018 Share Posted April 18, 2018 You'll want to keep all the 97+ harnesses and then later on down the line you can figure out which ones you don't want or need to use if you do the LS swap. For a regular 97+ swap you'll need them all basically. After they go in you can remove the wires that aren't necessary, like the rear defrost. Whatever you do, make it easier on yourself and either use the 97+ wiring with a 97+ swap, or keep you old interior and retain all the old wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted April 18, 2018 Share Posted April 18, 2018 You will need to basically do the 97 swap and remove all engine specific wiring from the engine bay, then run a painless harness for the engine, and a custom gauge cluster. This can be accomplished with the original wiring as well. There are expensive signal adapters if you wish to use the 97+ cluster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krustyballer16 Posted April 27, 2018 Share Posted April 27, 2018 I'm looking into buying a 2500 with the 6.0 in it and putting it in a comanche also! Need tips! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kickin’Chicken Posted April 27, 2018 Share Posted April 27, 2018 1 hour ago, krustyballer16 said: I'm looking into buying a 2500 with the 6.0 in it and putting it in a comanche also! Need tips! Don’t forget to bring your wallet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted April 27, 2018 Share Posted April 27, 2018 My only comment is don't let anyone talk you out of running the VSS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krustyballer16 Posted April 27, 2018 Share Posted April 27, 2018 4 hours ago, Kickin’Chicken said: Don’t forget to bring your wallet. As in for parts or the motor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krustyballer16 Posted April 27, 2018 Share Posted April 27, 2018 4 hours ago, DirtyComanche said: My only comment is don't let anyone talk you out of running the VSS. What's VSS? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted April 27, 2018 Share Posted April 27, 2018 1 hour ago, krustyballer16 said: What's VSS? Vehicle speed sensor. Assuming you're putting it in with a manual transmission, an automatic that's not controlled by the ECM (IE a TH-400 or a 4L60), people will tell you that you don't need it. If you delete the input so it won't throw a CEL the engine will likely stall every time you come to a stop. Cheapest way to do it appears to be to buy the whole donor vehicle, pair down the harness and dump the engine/trans/tcase all in as one. If you buy Novak motor mounts you will need a LS1 or LS6 style intake to clear the hood, plus their headers, and you'll have to rearrange the accessory drive. If you set the engine low and build your own mounts you can clear the hood with the truck intake you will lose some axle to oil pan clearance and a bunch of oil pan to ground clearance; if you buy a F-body oil pan to fix that you'll have all sorts of oiling problems off camber and will need a baffle kit and an accumulator. There is some other factory oil pans which give you a compromise on clearance but with less oiling issues, plus there's a couple steel aftermarket ones that aren't bad. Most guys are cutting out the front crossmember and stuffing a larger squarish radiator in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krustyballer16 Posted April 27, 2018 Share Posted April 27, 2018 I'm not sure which tranny I'll go with. I'm buying the whole 1999 2500. Its possibly going in a 2wd Comanche. I can cut down the center of the front axle too I've been kinda watching Luke Burns' build with the truck intake still on it. But I'll probably try to make my own motor mounts. I'm a fabricator and made motor mounts on my other MJ. I can probably figure out all the wiring too. I'll probably make my own gauge cluster again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted April 27, 2018 Share Posted April 27, 2018 In a 2wd I'd just get a F-body oil pan and set the engine low. If you even need the F-body pan. I know you can use a tape measure, so you can determine if you're going to have a clearance problem or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krustyballer16 Posted April 27, 2018 Share Posted April 27, 2018 1 hour ago, DirtyComanche said: In a 2wd I'd just get a F-body oil pan and set the engine low. If you even need the F-body pan. I know you can use a tape measure, so you can determine if you're going to have a clearance problem or not. Any pros/cons to the 6.0 over the 5.3 or 5.7. I wasnt looking for a 6.0, it just came up cheap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted April 27, 2018 Share Posted April 27, 2018 2 minutes ago, krustyballer16 said: Any pros/cons to the 6.0 over the 5.3 or 5.7. I wasnt looking for a 6.0, it just came up cheap Makes more power, burns more gas. If you wanna go fast it's a good starting point. The factory tune is also really conservative, and some power and economy can be pulled out of them with just a tune. You're going to need a tune anyways (delete VATS, and probably the rear O2s, maybe a few other things) so you might as well either find somebody that writes good tunes or just buy HPTuners and try not to blow your engine up. How many miles on it? One downside of the engines in the 2500+ trucks is often they're beat on pretty hard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krustyballer16 Posted April 27, 2018 Share Posted April 27, 2018 57 minutes ago, DirtyComanche said: Makes more power, burns more gas. If you wanna go fast it's a good starting point. The factory tune is also really conservative, and some power and economy can be pulled out of them with just a tune. You're going to need a tune anyways (delete VATS, and probably the rear O2s, maybe a few other things) so you might as well either find somebody that writes good tunes or just buy HPTuners and try not to blow your engine up. How many miles on it? One downside of the engines in the 2500+ trucks is often they're beat on pretty hard. I think I have a guy for tunes. Or he deletes stuff at least. Motor has 200k on it I figured I'd go thru it anyways and upgrade/plan ahead for more power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krustyballer16 Posted April 28, 2018 Share Posted April 28, 2018 What should I look for when I go look at this engine? Gonna try to start it on starting fluid. It won't run with no fuel lines but... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted April 28, 2018 Share Posted April 28, 2018 Why does it have no fuel lines? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krustyballer16 Posted April 28, 2018 Share Posted April 28, 2018 1 hour ago, DirtyComanche said: Why does it have no fuel lines? Rusted out. That's why he quit driving it a few months ago. Body is trashed too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted April 28, 2018 Share Posted April 28, 2018 9 minutes ago, krustyballer16 said: Rusted out. That's why he quit driving it a few months ago. Body is trashed too I don't know that you'll learn anything terribly useful by trying to get it to run on starting fluid. And stored code history will likely be fairly irrelevant too. I'd say just look it over and hope for the best. How cheap is it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krustyballer16 Posted April 28, 2018 Share Posted April 28, 2018 1 hour ago, DirtyComanche said: I don't know that you'll learn anything terribly useful by trying to get it to run on starting fluid. And stored code history will likely be fairly irrelevant too. I'd say just look it over and hope for the best. How cheap is it? $500 for the whole truck. I figure I can part it out then scrap it and make my money back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted April 28, 2018 Share Posted April 28, 2018 Just buy it. The harness, sensors and ECM is worth it alone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krustyballer16 Posted April 28, 2018 Share Posted April 28, 2018 Ok you talked me into it! Are there any 6.0 builds on here? Or 5.3 or 5.7? Quick search and not much Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krustyballer16 Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 On 4/27/2018 at 8:17 PM, krustyballer16 said: Rusted out. That's why he quit driving it a few months ago. Body is trashed too That's looks a bit more than a few months ago... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krustyballer16 Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 December. This is indiana. Months look like years around here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krustyballer16 Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 Anybody know if you can run a Cummins hx35 on the 6.0? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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