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help with identifying axles


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7 hours ago, motiusclyde said:

 

no idea what flange or driveshaft I have

If your rear driveshaft is hooked up to the XJ axle then it has a 1310 ujoint at the yolk of the xj rear axle. 

 

If you get a kj axle just grab the flange from the KJ driveshaft and install it onto the ujoint of your existing driveshaft. 

 

Sorry this may may seem all a little overwhelming and no matter what you are going to spend a few hours getting that rear end sorted out. 

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5 hours ago, Sir Sam said:

If your rear driveshaft is hooked up to the XJ axle then it has a 1310 ujoint at the yolk of the xj rear axle. 

 

If you get a kj axle just grab the flange from the KJ driveshaft and install it onto the ujoint of your existing driveshaft. 

 

Sorry this may may seem all a little overwhelming and no matter what you are going to spend a few hours getting that rear end sorted out. 

 

 

thanks. no I understand I am a jeep newbie so I really appreciate all the help from everyone. I posted the welded axle up for trade and a couple people are interested in trading me an open 8.25. 

 

Although I am tempted to go the 8.8 4.10 route since this thing has 33s on it. Would have to find a 4.10 dana 30 though. 

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1 hour ago, motiusclyde said:

Although I am tempted to go the 8.8 4.10 route since this thing has 33s on it. Would have to find a 4.10 dana 30 though. 

 

Most (but not all) 4-cylinder XJs and MJs (especially those with 5-speeds) came with 4.10 gears. [4-cylinders with 4-speeds generally had 3.54 gears, and some early 4-cylinder automatics had 4.56 gearing.] The front axles usually have a tag on the outside showing the gear ratio.

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8 hours ago, motiusclyde said:

 

 

thanks. no I understand I am a jeep newbie so I really appreciate all the help from everyone. I posted the welded axle up for trade and a couple people are interested in trading me an open 8.25. 

 

Although I am tempted to go the 8.8 4.10 route since this thing has 33s on it. Would have to find a 4.10 dana 30 though. 

 

 

 

You can also just buy gears for the D30 front, which is much easier than trying to find used gears or a whole D30 with the 4.10s.

 

4.10s are available for the KJ rear, some KJs even came with 4.10s, but I think it unlikely you will find one of those axles.

 

The 8.8 is a very solid axle choice, and will cost about the same at a pick your own parts place. I'm partial the the KJ just because it jives with the Jeep a little better than the ford 8.8.

 

 

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car-part.com might be able to help with junkyard searches of 4.10 axles.  :thumbsup: 

 

if I remember right I think by 05 the 4.10 KJ axle went away so you'll need to search earlier years.  

 

95+ explorers have the disks, but earlier ones are just as strong and can be upconverted to disks.  also v6 and v8 models are near-as-makes-no-difference the same axle.

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1 hour ago, Pete M said:

car-part.com might be able to help with junkyard searches of 4.10 axles.  :thumbsup: 

 

if I remember right I think by 05 the 4.10 KJ axle went away so you'll need to search earlier years.  

 

95+ explorers have the disks, but earlier ones are just as strong and can be upconverted to disks.  also v6 and v8 models are near-as-makes-no-difference the same axle.

 

I think 05 is the last year the 4.10 was available, but I also see junkyards advertising the v6 gassers as having 4.10s, I think the only ones that actually got 4.10s were the 2.4L 4 cyls.

 

 

At least around here the self serve junkyards have some many explorers you would have to be daft to pull a drum brake 8.8.

 

Heck I even saw a guy pulling a drum brake 8.8 to install in a first gen explorer and went....why?

 

The nice thing about fords is the door tag will have an axle code on it, that will tell you right away without getting under it what gears the axle has and if its a limited slip, I used to have them memorized, would walk through the junkyard looking for any with 4.10s and I would pull them to resell for Jeep guys wanting to swap.

 

IIRC the eddi bauer editions were more likely to have the 4.10s, and most of the axles we pulled had LSDs in them too, which could be good or bad depending on if you prefer the LSD or not.

 

Still if you want to go the 8.8 route from a pick n pull style yard lookup the door codes before you head out, it will make it much easier.

 

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On 2/2/2018 at 2:08 PM, HOrnbrod said:

I know the D44 does not have an offset pumpkin, but do the 8.25 or 8.8? Or are they perfectly centered like the D44?

 

IIRC the 8.8 is offset to the passenger side a couple inches.  Either way it does not produce any negative effects in the MJ chassis, as the small amount of angle added to the ujoint is within the working allowance regardless if a double cardon shaft is used or not, and it does not cause the driveshaft to foul on anything.

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1 minute ago, DirtyComanche said:

 

IIRC the 8.8 is offset to the passenger side a couple inches.  Either way it does not produce any negative effects in the MJ chassis, as the small amount of angle added to the ujoint is within the working allowance regardless if a double cardon shaft is used or not, and it does not cause the driveshaft to foul on anything.

 

Maybe, maybe not. I'd still rather have the driveshaft and rear axle perpendicular like with a D44.

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20 minutes ago, motiusclyde said:

After looking at the other thread posted here I just discovered I have the BA10 transmission. sigh.

 

Find an external slave AX-15 or a NV3550 and don't look back.  No Comanche came with a good manual transmission, some just came with less worse ones.

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3 minutes ago, DirtyComanche said:

 

Find an external slave AX-15 or a NV3550 and don't look back.  No Comanche came with a good manual transmission, some just came with less worse ones.

 

those transmission go for nearly 1000 bucks in these parts... I was told it had a ax15 when I traded for it. rig was originally an automatic so I wasnt sure what they swapped it out for. 

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1 minute ago, motiusclyde said:

 

those transmission go for nearly 1000 bucks in these parts... I was told it had a ax15 when I traded for it. rig was originally an automatic so I wasnt sure what they swapped it out for. 

 

Run it and keep an eye out for one, it's probably not going to explode in the next couple weeks, and maybe not in the next couple months, and it miiiiight not explode in the next couple years even.  I just picked up a 2wd external slave AX-15 for $50, I'm going to pull the parts off it to convert the spare internal slave one I have.

 

The wrecker I deal with here wanted $550 for a complete tranny, pulled, not giving me a deal, and I do not see how it could be more in the US (except maybe HI, possibly AK, or any of the territories).  You could buy one of out of state and pay for shipping and come in for under $1000.  I know Portland is weird, but it's not that weird.

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car-part.com can help with junkyard searches.  be sure to search for multiple years sine the site lists purely by part number and those changed now and again even though the trans can still be used.  TJ/YJ stuff can also be used with some mods.

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14 hours ago, motiusclyde said:

 

those transmission go for nearly 1000 bucks in these parts... I was told it had a ax15 when I traded for it. rig was originally an automatic so I wasnt sure what they swapped it out for. 

 

Even 1/2 that amount is on the high side at the yard.....

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yea prices are pretty high for jeep stuff around the NW. haven't seen an ax15 for less than 800. people want 3-400 for ford 8.8s too. 

 

anyway do you guys think a cheaper 120v flux core welder would work fine for relocating the spring mounts? just looking into options as I do not want to pay a shop to do all the axle work. plus I could use the same welder to fix up the hack job on the bed. 

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38 minutes ago, motiusclyde said:

yea prices are pretty high for jeep stuff around the NW. haven't seen an ax15 for less than 800. people want 3-400 for ford 8.8s too. 

 

anyway do you guys think a cheaper 120v flux core welder would work fine for relocating the spring mounts? just looking into options as I do not want to pay a shop to do all the axle work. plus I could use the same welder to fix up the hack job on the bed. 

 

Probably not. Your best bet would be to mock everything up and then find someone in the area willing to bring over a welder in exchange for a case of beer.

 

Heck if you can even get everything set and hold the pinion angle right you might be able to bring the rear end to someone to weld.

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9 hours ago, Pete M said:

I bought a cheap stick welder and tack my stuff together for a local pro to finish up.  it lets me build what I want, but know that it's strong.  :D 

The cheap wire feed welder would work for tacking things together. 

 

Best bet bet would be to do some social networking and find a fellow local jeeper willing to help. 

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