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help with identifying axles


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Cool, a bobbed longbed.  I want to do that with mine, but unfortunately I'd have to find a better box (one that a tree didn't fall on) to start with to do it, which just makes no sense at that point.  It's going to take some time to stitch that cut they made back together, but certainly it's doable.

 

Would I be correct in guessing the truck has a 5spd?  If so, I would highly suspect that front axle has 3.07 gears.

 

I don't think it would be too hard to get that thing safe, but it will cost a few bucks depending how bad things are.  If you stick with that much lift you're going to want new aftermarket upper control arms (adjustable would be a good idea) or to go to a long arm kit of some sort, and the steering will suck unless you make some changes there too.

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On ‎1‎/‎30‎/‎2018 at 9:30 PM, FrankTheDog said:

Stock 96-01 XJ 8.25’s can be had cheap or get a KJ rear axle or Explorer 8.8 with discs. KJ and Exploder axles can be had with 3.73 or 4.10 gears for better performance, then you would have to find a front or regear the one you have. The 3.55’s will work for now.

 

 

Just a quick note on this.....early KJ's (2002) have drums in the rear, not discs.  I know, I own one <<bleah>>

 

 

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54 minutes ago, mjeff87 said:

 

Just a quick note on this.....early KJ's (2002) have drums in the rear, not discs.  I know, I own one <<bleah>>

 

 

Agreed. If you want to just replac the rear axle for one without welds go for an 8.8 or KJ disk 8.25. I'm swapping a disk 8.25 from an 05 KJ. The brake lines and cables are a perfect swap for the MJ. 

 

See this for more info:

 

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33 minutes ago, Sir Sam said:

Agreed. If you want to just replac the rear axle for one without welds go for an 8.8 or KJ disk 8.25. I'm swapping a disk 8.25 from an 05 KJ. The brake lines and cables are a perfect swap for the MJ. 

 

 

How do you install either a KJ axle or an 8.8 axle in an MJ without welding?

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8 hours ago, DirtyComanche said:

Cool, a bobbed longbed.  I want to do that with mine, but unfortunately I'd have to find a better box (one that a tree didn't fall on) to start with to do it, which just makes no sense at that point.  It's going to take some time to stitch that cut they made back together, but certainly it's doable.

 

Would I be correct in guessing the truck has a 5spd?  If so, I would highly suspect that front axle has 3.07 gears.

 

I don't think it would be too hard to get that thing safe, but it will cost a few bucks depending how bad things are.  If you stick with that much lift you're going to want new aftermarket upper control arms (adjustable would be a good idea) or to go to a long arm kit of some sort, and the steering will suck unless you make some changes there too.

 

 

car used to be auto. pretty sure it is 3.54 up front after talking with previous owners. 

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1 hour ago, Eagle said:

 

How do you install either a KJ axle or an 8.8 axle in an MJ without welding?

 

 

 yea I was going to say. but as far as options of not modifying an axle am I already past that point? There is someone local selling a complete 3.54 d35 out of a comanche for 100 bucks. Could I swap that on and still retain the SOA setup?

 

 

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7 minutes ago, motiusclyde said:

 

 

 yea I was going to say. but as far as options of not modifying an axle am I already past that point? There is someone local selling a complete 3.54 d35 out of a comanche for 100 bucks. Could I swap that on and still retain the SOA setup?

 

 

 

You could install a Comanche Dana 35, but you would have to relocate the spring perches. Or you could install a Cherokee Dana 35 -- and you would still have to relocate the spring perches. But a Dana 35 is not a good axle. The only reason for using one would be if it's for an MJ, you want to revert to the original SUA setup ... and someone gives you the axle.

 

Bottom line: if you want to stay with spring-over-axle, there is no axle you can use that won't require welding spring perches in the correct location. For the $100 that D35 would cost you, you could probably find an un-welded 8.25 differential and just install that in the axle you have. Just be sure to measure the diameter of your axle shafts, to see if you have an early or late 8.25.

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8 minutes ago, Eagle said:

 

You could install a Comanche Dana 35, but you would have to relocate the spring perches. Or you could install a Cherokee Dana 35 -- and you would still have to relocate the spring perches. But a Dana 35 is not a good axle. The only reason for using one would be if it's for an MJ, you want to revert to the original SUA setup ... and someone gives you the axle.

 

Bottom line: if you want to stay with spring-over-axle, there is no axle you can use that won't require welding spring perches in the correct location. For the $100 that D35 would cost you, you could probably find an un-welded 8.25 differential and just install that in the axle you have. Just be sure to measure the diameter of your axle shafts, to see if you have an early or late 8.25.

 

 

alright good to know. going to pop off the diff cover today and see whats going on in there. 

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Scrap that pos. Grab a KJ 8.25, and swap it in like I did, or go with the ford 8.8 with disks. The 8.8 is a little narrower and will need spacers, and the park brake cables will be an issue on it. 

 

The 8.8 is a little stronger but the KJ 8.25 is a little better fit for the MJ. 

 

Both will require welding new perches on the axle. 

 

Here is the first part part of my video showing the axle swap:

 

 

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teeth look good its just filled with grey sludge. 

 

also found a part number on the rear springs, came back as a comanche specific rusty's 4" leaf pack. but it looks like 2 of the leafs are missing from them. so I reckon whover slapped this SOA setup together pulled some of the leaves out to even the lift. ugh. 

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6 hours ago, Sir Sam said:

Scrap that pos. Grab a KJ 8.25, and swap it in like I did, or go with the ford 8.8 with disks. The 8.8 is a little narrower and will need spacers, and the park brake cables will be an issue on it. 

 

The 8.8 is a little stronger but the KJ 8.25 is a little better fit for the MJ. 

 

Both will require welding new perches on the axle.

 

The 8.8 also requires an adapter for the rear u-joint on the drive shaft. The KJ axle is a much easier, more straightforward swap.

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1 minute ago, Eagle said:

 

The 8.8 also requires an adapter for the rear u-joint on the drive shaft. The KJ axle is a much easier, more straightforward swap.

 

Typically when you go to purchase one you make sure you get the companion flange (and the bolts) at the same time.  I made that mistake the first time around.

 

While I have never done a KJ 8.25 swap, the Furd 8.8 swap is quite simple and straightforward.  But really, any sort of a swap (except a D35) with the perches actually welded on in the correct place would probably work fine for him.

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1 hour ago, DirtyComanche said:

 

Typically when you go to purchase one you make sure you get the companion flange (and the bolts) at the same time.  I made that mistake the first time around.

 

While I have never done a KJ 8.25 swap, the Furd 8.8 swap is quite simple and straightforward.  But really, any sort of a swap (except a D35) with the perches actually welded on in the correct place would probably work fine for him.

 

IIRC even if you get the flange for the 8.8 you still need a 1310 conversion ujoint to adapter to your XJ driveshaft.

 

The KJ 8.25 also needs the flange from the driveshaft, but at least its a 1310 flange.

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2 hours ago, Sir Sam said:

 

IIRC even if you get the flange for the 8.8 you still need a 1310 conversion ujoint to adapter to your XJ driveshaft.

 

The KJ 8.25 also needs the flange from the driveshaft, but at least its a 1310 flange.

 

no idea what flange or driveshaft I have

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