Help figuring out diagnostic code blink pattern.

[cjomanche]

Can someone please take a look at this and help me figure out which codes are being thrown?  It looks like 1 pause 2 pause 3 pause 5 pause 5 pause 5 pause.  From what I read the two 5s at the end mean end of test, but there are differently times gaps between the other numbers and I don’t know which codes these are.

 

thank you in advance 

 

 

 

[cjomanche]

Fixed the video

[DesertRat1991]

My eyes see 12, 35, 55.

 

12: Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles.

 

35: An open or shorted condition detected in the radiator fan relay circuit.

 

55: Completion of diagnostic trouble code display on the malfunction indicator lamp (check engine lamp).

[yxmj]

As above

12

35

55

[HOrnbrod]

Those are normal if you don't have the factory aux fan installed.

[gogmorgo]

12 could indicate an issue with battery connections but it comes on with almost every other code I've got so I wouldn't worry about it.

55 is end of codes. It loops a couple times after this if you missed something. 

 

The pauses between flashes are slightly longer between codes than between the two digits of one code, but all codes are two digits so it's easy enough to distinguish them. 

 

 

[cjomanche]

21 hours ago, HOrnbrod said:

Those are normal if you don't have the factory aux fan installed.

 

That would make sense.  I have the heavy duty aftermarket one installed. 

 

I cleared the codes in the system and these two remained on. 

[HOrnbrod]

It sounds like this stuttering occurs when the system goes into closed loop and the ECU, MAP, IAT, etc. take over. Just for grins try the below procedure to erase all the ECU memory and start with the original factory settings. Also clean up the 60-pin ECU connector first.

 

Disconnect the POSITIVE battery Terminal and touch it to ground for 30 seconds. (This is to discharge the PCM capacitors, which maintain the Adaptive Memory).
Reconnect the Battery Cable
Turn Ignition Switch to the “On” position but DO NOT start the engine
Turn Headlight “On”
Turn Headlights “Off”
Turn Ignition Key “Off”

Adaptive memory has nor been flashed, or erased from the PCM.

When you restart the engine it will be running off a set of pre-programmed tables that come with the PCM from the factory.

When you get the engine up to operating temperature the PCM will start to collect data for the “Adaptive Memory”.

The PCM will collect data for Adaptive Memory for the first 50 Warm-up Cycles.

 

[87MJTIM]

53 minutes ago, HOrnbrod said:

It sounds like this stuttering occurs when the system goes into closed loop and the ECU, MAP, IAT, etc. take over. Just for grins try the below procedure to erase all the ECU memory and start with the original factory settings. Also clean up the 60-pin ECU connector first.

 

Disconnect the POSITIVE battery Terminal and touch it to ground for 30 seconds. (This is to discharge the PCM capacitors, which maintain the Adaptive Memory).
Reconnect the Battery Cable
Turn Ignition Switch to the “On” position but DO NOT start the engine
Turn Headlight “On”
Turn Headlights “Off”
Turn Ignition Key “Off”

Adaptive memory has nor been flashed, or erased from the PCM.

When you restart the engine it will be running off a set of pre-programmed tables that come with the PCM from the factory.

When you get the engine up to operating temperature the PCM will start to collect data for the “Adaptive Memory”.

The PCM will collect data for Adaptive Memory for the first 50 Warm-up Cycles.

 

 

Then close your eyes,

click your heals together, 

and say "there's no place like home..."

 

( I couldn't resist.)

[HOrnbrod]

10 minutes ago, 87MJTIM said:

 

Then close your eyes,

click your heals together, 

and say "there's no place like home..."

 

( I couldn't resist.)

 

  Ya, I know it sounds like mumbo-jumbo, but it's the only way I've found to completely clear the memory and reload the factory OBD1memory tables.