coolwind57 Posted December 22, 2017 Author Share Posted December 22, 2017 Finally fixed a annoying interior lighting issue. Driver's door switch hadn't worked since I bought the truck. I bought one off of Amazon and slapped her in there today. Finally have lights when I open the driver's door. Another thing I wasn't expecting is the door buzzer (when keys are inserted in ignition). The switch pictured is the old one, which as you can see is quite beat up. Note the part number DS240 that fit my 1989 MJ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolwind57 Posted December 30, 2017 Author Share Posted December 30, 2017 Today I converted from closed to open system. I did the upper hose pressure cap technique, retaining my Renix-era radiator. I used a later model XJ reservoir and found that I was able to fit it pretty well back on the firewall, facing opposite of what others had facing. My old pressure bottle mount was modified and with a little welding, it all fits securely. Painted white because that's all I had at the time. I'll probably go over it with some black paint later on. Man, it sure cleared up a lot of space around my oil filter. Simplifies the heater hoses and overall cooling system now so that even I can understand and more easily troubleshoot. I used the curved ends nearest the heater core of the 97+ heater hoses that I acquired from the junkyard. Also fitted in a Prestone backflush port. Heads up if you don't already know: The 97+ heater hoses will fit perfectly--if you want reverse flow into you heater core, which you DO NOT WANT. In 97, Jeep cleaned up all the mess and complication of the heater control valve mess, but in doing so, they also reversed the outside diameters of the two heater core pipes. So in other words, the front of the 97+ heater hoses plug in to the water pump and thermostat neck of the Renix era engines perfectly. The rear ends of the hoses are now opposite IDs of what they should be to fit Renix. A bit of a disappointment I suppose as I had plumb in 3/4" to 5/8" reducers for both hoses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolwind57 Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 Decided to relocate the vacuum canister today. I kept reading about how prone those two vacuum lines are to breakage/leaks that run to the bottle's original location . Easy-peasy, man. My 1989 model has the "ball" type and not the football type that I hear are on earlier MJs. I found the ideal place is up under the old pressure bottle bracket that I had recently modified to hold my new open-system coolant recovery bottle. I feel a bit better now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolwind57 Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 Last week, I finally got around to installing some fog/driving lights that I picked up a few weeks ago at the junkyard. They appeared to be quite new on the XJ that I found them on, so I snagged them for a cool $5 or $10. Not really a fog light kind of guy, but I found myself going back and looking at that XJ in the yard and convinced myself that they look cool enough to pull and put on The Warrior. Also found brighter amber corner lenses and installed them too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolwind57 Posted February 12, 2018 Author Share Posted February 12, 2018 So, I've got a freeze plug issue. #5 plug on side of block was repaired with one of those rubber plugs. I suppose it got the previous owner by for a bit but it started leaking a week or so ago. A lot. I think I have coolant coming from back of engine as well, so this means I probably have on of the two rear plugs leaking too (head and/or block). I'll inspect more closely to better determine. I hate the thought of pulling the transmission to get to them. I really wonder if these leaks were started by my flushing the coolant system real good. Perhaps PO installed a stop leak or something, "fixing" some leaking a while back. So I've got the manifolds pulled--good Heavens, there must be a secret to removing intake bolts! I've got to discover it. Took me forever. Access was crazy. i do not look forward to fishing them back in during re-install. I went ahead and did an EGR delete. I chose not to replace this expensive part and felt no need to keep it, as my area does not have emissions testing. I did open my diaphragm and found, like others, that the spring inside was toast--complete disintegrated. I also chose to retain both Renix manifolds. I've got a bit of welding to do on the exhaust manifold to repair some cracks. I cut the exhaust-to-intake EGR tube, rolled each of the ends and sealed with weld. So anyhow, freeze plugs come in tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolwind57 Posted February 14, 2018 Author Share Posted February 14, 2018 While I've got most of my accessories off of the engine, I thought I'd go ahead and address the oily passenger side of the block. Oil is pretty-much covered from the cylinder head on down. My starter is oil covered and I am suspecting the oil filter adapter, which is a common source on these Jeep 4.0 vehicles. I pulled the oil filter adapter off last night (takes a 16mm wrench) and brought it to work today and cleaned it up and painted it. The old O-rings were pressed flat and were hardened. There's three total, two on the shaft and one on the adapter where it mates the engine. No need to paint of course, but what the heck. I had the time, the paint, and it helps identify parts that had been worked on when one opens the hood. Might be helpful, I dunno. Looks pretty, regardless. The O-ring kit is Crown part number 33002970K if you can't see it in the photo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolwind57 Posted February 14, 2018 Author Share Posted February 14, 2018 So here's a pic of an aged, distorted O-ring versus the new replacement one from Crown: This is the lower shaft O-ring, btw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolwind57 Posted March 5, 2018 Author Share Posted March 5, 2018 Here's a shot of my old versus new motor mounts. Not as much rubber degradation as I expected, but check out the height difference. Replacing wasn't bad. I jacked up engine as I removed bolts. I loosely installed all bolts before I let the jack down and that seemed to help. Pic above does not include the metal jacket that covers over this rubber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolwind57 Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 I picked up a stock XJ tranny cooler earlier this Summer and just got around to installing it. My 89 didn't come with one and coolers are definitely recommended by most everyone. I had plumbed it AFTER the radiator on the return. I've seen both ways, but it kind of made since to me that the radiator heat would slightly warm the fluid while idling first thing on cold mornings. Once moving, I figured that the fluid should probably need max cooling before going back into the transmission. I also replaced both tranny cooler lines (the metal to rubber lines running from and to the transmission. My 1989 rubber ends were looked pretty dry rotted. Figured they'd go any time, so best to replace now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 That's how the factory plumbed them (on the return line) and how I did mine too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolwind57 Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 While I had both manifolds off over the past few weeks replacing freeze plugs, I decided to do an EGR delete. I figured it was more expensive to do repairs than it is worth (and a pain to work on when the time came). PO removed my catalytic converter anyhow, so SMOG provisions were already altered and I figured it was one less thing to cause me problems. Anyhow, this is what I did: Cut the tube connecting header and EGR. Welded header at pipe opening. I then cut off all of the stuff attached to the cast iron EGR housing. Using a piece of scrap flat metal, I cut it in the same profile as the EGR housing. I then smeared some RTV on one side of my sheet metal and used the EGR housing to sandwich it to the intake manifold. Prior to, I painted it red just for fun. It is so much easier to see and to reach around in this area now. And no worries about a 30+ year old EGR eventually interfering with drivability. My pretty red EGR delete block would look much better if I had wiped the smeared RTV off prior to this picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolwind57 Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 Speaking of red, I shot my injector heat shield red while I had it off. My taste in color selection may be questioned by some, but it sure helps distinguish components in this area. Makes it much easier to find a dropped fastener, for sure. Notice those 746 injectors I got from Yitamotor. That was a worthy purchase. Takes your single spray injectors to four spray per injector, all for $55.99 for the whole 6-each set. I felt like I scored a buy one, get 6 deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolwind57 Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 And a shot of top of engine. I spun on a Balwin BT-251 gigantic, monster-sized oil filter. It's factory red, so I didn't have to paint it! I also shot my new motor mounts and transmission dipstick and tube red too while I had them off. Now I feel guilty that I hadn't yet cleaned up my valve cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 That Baldwin filter is the metric thread pattern? Or did you put a HO adapter on? I'm probably going to do the EGR delete on mine too, it seems like a useless feature and certainly it didn't hurt anything when I deleted it on my XJ. As always, your truck is looking good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 Yes, that pretty red Baldwin filter is huge. I use it too, SAE 3/4-16 threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolwind57 Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 3 hours ago, DirtyComanche said: That Baldwin filter is the metric thread pattern? Or did you put a HO adapter on? I'm probably going to do the EGR delete on mine too, it seems like a useless feature and certainly it didn't hurt anything when I deleted it on my XJ. As always, your truck is looking good. Yes, I did the metric to SAE filter adapter (on page 1 of this thread). Thanks for the complement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 3 hours ago, DirtyComanche said: I'm probably going to do the EGR delete on mine too, it seems like a useless feature and certainly it didn't hurt anything when I deleted it on my XJ. One small thing about EGR delete, when ECU determines EGR ON, INJ PW is shortened slightly due to the increased exhaust gas mixture entering the manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 2 hours ago, Ωhm said: One small thing about EGR delete, when ECU determines EGR ON, INJ PW is shortened slightly due to the increased exhaust gas mixture entering the manifold. Does it have any means to determine that the solenoid isn't there? Worst case it would seem you'd cycle a slightly lean condition at idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 ECU is senseless if EGR solenoid is present or not. No DTC's here. EGR is usually activated during warm cruise, not idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolwind57 Posted March 16, 2018 Author Share Posted March 16, 2018 Check out my new topper. So, my band has an out-of-state performance in Ohio this weekend, 4-1/2-hour drive. Looks like I've been appointed the "Merchandise guy" until we can acquire another person to manage (and haul) this stuff (concert T-shirts, coffee mugs, necklaces, other goodies). Anyhow, I've been able to either dodge bad weather or stuff my instrument equipment in my wife's Nissan Sentra--a VERY tight squeeze. Now that I got my truck back on the road...and now that I have more than doubled my gear to haul, I decided that it was time for a topper. So this is what I came up with. I paid a whopping $30 for it, but I had to drive about an hour to get it. It needed some repairs, which I did most all last night. I had to beat some dents out and replace some fasteners and reinforce an area or two, but overall i kind of like it. The fit is acceptable for it's purpose: To haul gear on occasion. I'll have this thing back off 98% of the time. Good thing is this: It is tall and quite light in weight---more lightweight than it looks. I can carry this myself when I slide the back doors off. I get under it and grab it by the roof rafters on into my bed. Place it, snug it down with clamps, then slide the rear door assembly on. The dude I bought it from claimed it came from an S-10 long bed. After checking measurements over the phone, i made the trek to pick it up. Hey man, 30-bucks and I can haul stuff dry now. Maybe will use it as a camper this Summer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 17, 2018 Share Posted March 17, 2018 The older (square body) S10 is the MJ's closest relative as far as bed size. Looks like it fits well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatiricalHen Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 While I had both manifolds off over the past few weeks replacing freeze plugs, I decided to do an EGR delete. I figured it was more expensive to do repairs than it is worth (and a pain to work on when the time came). PO removed my catalytic converter anyhow, so SMOG provisions were already altered and I figured it was one less thing to cause me problems. Anyhow, this is what I did: Cut the tube connecting header and EGR. Welded header at pipe opening. I then cut off all of the stuff attached to the cast iron EGR housing. Using a piece of scrap flat metal, I cut it in the same profile as the EGR housing. I then smeared some RTV on one side of my sheet metal and used the EGR housing to sandwich it to the intake manifold. Prior to, I painted it red just for fun. It is so much easier to see and to reach around in this area now. And no worries about a 30+ year old EGR eventually interfering with drivability. My pretty red EGR delete block would look much better if I had wiped the smeared RTV off prior to this picture. What did you do about the vacuum lines to the egr? Been meaning to completely remove mine, but for now the vacuum line from the solenoid is just plugged. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolwind57 Posted March 18, 2018 Author Share Posted March 18, 2018 19 hours ago, SatiricalHen said: What did you do about the vacuum lines to the egr? Been meaning to completely remove mine, but for now the vacuum line from the solenoid is just plugged. Just removed all vac lines related to the EGR along with the solenoid. Then plugged the EGR vacuum at the port on the top of the manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skorpyo Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 On 12/30/2017 at 3:24 PM, coolwind57 said: Today I converted from closed to open system. I did the upper hose pressure cap technique, retaining my Renix-era radiator. I used a later model XJ reservoir and found that I was able to fit it pretty well back on the firewall, facing opposite of what others had facing. My old pressure bottle mount was modified and with a little welding, it all fits securely. Painted white because that's all I had at the time. I'll probably go over it with some black paint later on. Man, it sure cleared up a lot of space around my oil filter. Simplifies the heater hoses and overall cooling system now so that even I can understand and more easily troubleshoot. I used the curved ends nearest the heater core of the 97+ heater hoses that I acquired from the junkyard. Also fitted in a Prestone backflush port. Heads up if you don't already know: The 97+ heater hoses will fit perfectly--if you want reverse flow into you heater core, which you DO NOT WANT. In 97, Jeep cleaned up all the mess and complication of the heater control valve mess, but in doing so, they also reversed the outside diameters of the two heater core pipes. So in other words, the front of the 97+ heater hoses plug in to the water pump and thermostat neck of the Renix era engines perfectly. The rear ends of the hoses are now opposite IDs of what they should be to fit Renix. A bit of a disappointment I suppose as I had plumb in 3/4" to 5/8" reducers for both hoses. I've not seen a write-up on doing this mod without replacing the radiator. Did you have a reference you followed? I'm sure I could probably google it, but since you just did it... LOL. Anyways, great stuff in here, keep up the good work, MJ's looking pretty awesome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolwind57 Posted March 20, 2018 Author Share Posted March 20, 2018 17 hours ago, Skorpyo said: I've not seen a write-up on doing this mod without replacing the radiator. Did you have a reference you followed? I'm sure I could probably google it, but since you just did it... LOL. Anyways, great stuff in here, keep up the good work, MJ's looking pretty awesome! Most guys are replacing the radiator, which I didn't want to do unless I had to. Their mod would also include replacing the water neck if memory serves me right. Seems like there was another small hurdle with the electric fan or something too, I can't remember. My method, which I read about somewhere on the net, was much simplier and certainly less costly. I have no regrets at all. Hey man, when you get some extra funds, buy this: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1521546998&sr=1-1&keywords=Lisle+24680+Spill-Free+Funnel That was a great $20 tool investment. Works great and gave me piece of mind that I was helping to eliminate any hotspots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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