D44 Disc Brake Conversion Questions

[crumbscomanche]

Happy Labor Day, all. I am getting ready to tear down this D44, and I wanted to get some feedback on our plan for refurbishing. We're about to clean it up and drop it in along with new 4.56 gears and a true-trac set up front and rear, so not too concerned about the internals right now. We are getting ready to order the parts for a disc brake conversion, and had a few questions:

 

1. Will the ZJ brake conversion require drilling out the rotor to fit the D44? Is there a set of rotors we can buy that will bolt on?

2. Will the brake lines be plug and play? This will be my first time working on brake lines. We were just going to rip out everything on there and replace it since it's rusting pretty bad

3. Will the ZJ calipers and rotors fit with 15'' wheels? 

4. Is there anything we should know before jumping in?

 

Thanks in advance for the feedback - here are some pictures:

 

 

 

 

[kryptronic]

You won't have to mod the rotor but the caliper backing plate may need a little grinding to fit.

 

Your frame to axle drop line will work.  You will need new caliper soft lines and a way to mount them to the axle. You will also need new ebrake cables and will need to run hard line on the axle itself. 

 

A ZJ setup will fit 15" wheels with room to spare.

 

Look at the D44 disc break conversions on Stu Offroad. Step by step with pics and part numbers.  The only difference will be your ebrake cables.

[crumbscomanche]

1 hour ago, kryptronic said:

You won't have to mod the rotor but the caliper backing plate may need a little grinding to fit.

 

Your frame to axle drop line will work.  You will need new caliper soft lines and a way to mount them to the axle. You will also need new ebrake cables and will need to run hard line on the axle itself. 

 

A ZJ setup will fit 15" wheels with room to spare.

 

Look at the D44 disc break conversions on Stu Offroad. Step by step with pics and part numbers.  The only difference will be your ebrake cables.

Thank you very much for this. That's a seriously huge help! 

 

Is the frame to axle drop line the cable running over the knuckle? The soft lines would probably be picked up from the JY along with the ZJ parts, correct? 

 

Which would make the two rusty lines connected to the backing plate the e-brake lines?

 

Thank you again, @kryptronic

[kryptronic]

There is no knuckle on the rear axle.  I'm referring to the flexible line that goes from under the bed to the middle of the driver side tube on the axle. 

 

Also you're going to need axle retainers from a TJ for your 44 when using ZJ caliper brackets.

[crumbscomanche]

2 hours ago, kryptronic said:

There is no knuckle on the rear axle.  I'm referring to the flexible line that goes from under the bed to the middle of the driver side tube on the axle. 

 

Also you're going to need axle retainers from a TJ for your 44 when using ZJ caliper brackets.

sorry, I meant the diff bump (not sure what the nomenclature is). I guess I'll need a crawl under mine to get an idea of what I should look for. 

 

I found this kit for $200 on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/122680812625?ul_noapp=true 

On 9/3/2017 at 6:13 PM, HOrnbrod said:

It was. Unfortunately that doesn't look like a factory roll bar though. 

 

looks like it has everything but the e-brake cable. used rotors and pads, so those will need to be replaced too. 

 

 

[kryptronic]

11 hours ago, crumbscomanche said:

I found this kit for $200 on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/122680812625?ul_noapp=true

 

To do this conversion on a Dana 35 C-Clip Axle: You need 2 caliper mounting brackets, 2 calipers, 2 soft lines (caliper to axle), 2 rotors, 2 sets of shoes, 2 ebrake cables (ZJ ends, MJ length), and 1 frame to axle drop line.  You'd need to open the pumpkin on this conversion to be able to remove the axles.

 

To do this conversion on a Dana 35 Non-C-Clip or Dana 44: You additionally may need to redrill holes and/or grind the opening on the 2 caliper mounting brackets, and you will need 2 TJ axle retainers, and will likely be replacing your axle seals as they will need to be removed to get the TJ retainers on.  No need to open the pumpkin.

 

I bought a similar kit on eBay when I did my Dana 35.  I got them to agree to a $150 best offer.  It was rusted, broken junk and not worth the money.  I sent it back and bought new parts piece by piece for the conversion.  In hindsight, the Crown conversion kit would have been about $50 less than what I did, but I ended up with better parts.  If you go with the eBay set, get them to sell it to you for a best offer price, and be prepared to rebuild the capliers, get all new hardware, shoes and rotors, and potentially blast and paint all parts.  Also assume all the brake lines will likely be bent up and cut and unusable.  The value in what you're looking at there is in the backing plates, and calipers if they're in decent shape.

 

12 hours ago, crumbscomanche said:

sorry, I meant the diff bump (not sure what the nomenclature is). I guess I'll need a crawl under mine to get an idea of what I should look for.

 

Commonly called the 'pumpkin', aka differential housing.

[HOrnbrod]

Mine was pretty easy when I swapped in the D44 in. The old D35 c-clip axle already had a Teraflex Ford Explorer disk brake kit on it, so all I had to do was purchase new D44 backing plates and preload spacers from Teraflex to convert it. About $100 at the time.  As I recall the brake lines were all fine, just needed some minor re-bending.

 

Just put a new NOS Mopar Performance cover on it too. 

 

 

[kryptronic]

1 hour ago, HOrnbrod said:

Mine was pretty easy when I swapped in the D44 in. The old D35 c-clip axle already had a Teraflex Ford Explorer disk brake kit on it, so all I had to do was purchase new D44 backing plates and preload spacers from Teraflex to convert it. About $100 at the time. 

 

Do you recall what you did for the parking brake cables?  My experience on this conversion is on a YJ.  I understand both the explorer and ZJ use a similar style ebrake connector at the backing plate.  The stock drum brake ebrake cables (cylindrical end) do not mate up to the ZJ backing plate (requires a rectangular end with a slot in it), and I would assume, if the explorer setup is the same, the explorer doesn't mate up either.  So what did you use there?  For the YJ, I used a custom crown part number.  Most guys just mod the stock cables with a clamp, but I don't think that's your style, and it's not mine. 

[HOrnbrod]

I replaced the stock cables with new; they were plenty long enough. To connect to the ebrake lever, I used a slotted Ford clevis.

[kryptronic]

22 minutes ago, HOrnbrod said:

I replaced the stock cables with new; they were plenty long enough. To connect to the ebrake lever, I used a slotted Ford clevis.

 

I can't see the pic due to it being on photobucket, but dug it up via Google Images and located your reply to this post:

 

Very interesting.  I think that's what needs to be done here for any type of ZJ disc conversion.  Stock cables plus this clevis.  Do you have a part number?  Also, do you by any chance have part numbers for all three stock ebrake cables (the one from the pedal at the front; two from rear axle)?  Thanks.

[kryptronic]

On 9/6/2017 at 2:47 PM, HOrnbrod said:

Just put a new NOS Mopar Performance cover on it too.

 

Nice, by the way.  For reference, here's the custom crown brake line for the YJ, showing the ZJ ends.  This is the ZJ disc brake conversion completed on a D35 with the exception of hard lines on the axle and the ebrake cables being hooked up.

 

 

On 9/5/2017 at 11:14 PM, crumbscomanche said:

sorry, I meant the diff bump (not sure what the nomenclature is). I guess I'll need a crawl under mine to get an idea of what I should look for.

 

Here is a good shot of the drop cable on a YJ.  It is the same, same location on an MJ.  Note that the hard lines on the axle are not in this pic, they would connect to each of the caliper soft cables at the axle mounting bracket, and at the base of the drop cable.  And those are Cragar 15"x7" Soft 8 rims.

 

[HOrnbrod]

Lokar Rear Brake Clevis Kits – Wilwood/Ford Explorer Style Rear

 

http://www.lokar.com/product-pgs/ebrake-cables-conn-cables/ebrake-cable-pgs/rearbrake-clevis-kits.html

 

Front CABLE, Brake
52003192, 6 Foot Box
52003190, 7 Foot Box

Rear CABLES, Brake
52006380, 2, For both LWB & SWB

[Pete M]

1 hour ago, kryptronic said:

 

I can't see the pic due to it being on photobucket, but dug it up via Google Images and located your reply to this post:

 

 

do you have the anti-PB browser add-on that lets you see the PB pics?

[kryptronic]

1 minute ago, Pete M said:

 

do you have the anti-PB browser add-on that lets you see the PB pics?

 

No, I don't.  My desktop is used mainly for work.  I won't be installing any plugins on it which scan all inbound content and modify it.  That approach may work for most, just not me.  Thanks for the tip, though.

[kryptronic]

19 minutes ago, HOrnbrod said:

Lokar Rear Brake Clevis Kits – Wilwood/Ford Explorer Style Rear

 

http://www.lokar.com/product-pgs/ebrake-cables-conn-cables/ebrake-cable-pgs/rearbrake-clevis-kits.html

 

Front CABLE, Brake
52003192, 6 Foot Box
52003190, 7 Foot Box

Rear CABLES, Brake
52006380, 2, For both LWB & SWB

 

You're the man.  Thank you.

[crumbscomanche]

7 hours ago, kryptronic said:

 

To do this conversion on a Dana 35 C-Clip Axle: You need 2 caliper mounting brackets, 2 calipers, 2 soft lines (caliper to axle), 2 rotors, 2 sets of shoes, 2 ebrake cables (ZJ ends, MJ length), and 1 frame to axle drop line.  You'd need to open the pumpkin on this conversion to be able to remove the axles.

 

To do this conversion on a Dana 35 Non-C-Clip or Dana 44: You additionally may need to redrill holes and/or grind the opening on the 2 caliper mounting brackets, and you will need 2 TJ axle retainers, and will likely be replacing your axle seals as they will need to be removed to get the TJ retainers on.  No need to open the pumpkin.

 

I bought a similar kit on eBay when I did my Dana 35.  I got them to agree to a $150 best offer.  It was rusted, broken junk and not worth the money.  I sent it back and bought new parts piece by piece for the conversion.  In hindsight, the Crown conversion kit would have been about $50 less than what I did, but I ended up with better parts.  If you go with the eBay set, get them to sell it to you for a best offer price, and be prepared to rebuild the capliers, get all new hardware, shoes and rotors, and potentially blast and paint all parts.  Also assume all the brake lines will likely be bent up and cut and unusable.  The value in what you're looking at there is in the backing plates, and calipers if they're in decent shape.

 

 

Commonly called the 'pumpkin', aka differential housing.

Thank you for this- anticipated on having to pick up new rotors and pads along with hardware. I offered $180 and he took it- if it looks bad, though, I will send back and order it piece by piece. Would it be okay if I shot you a couple of messages when we get it going? 

 

5 hours ago, HOrnbrod said:

Mine was pretty easy when I swapped in the D44 in. The old D35 c-clip axle already had a Teraflex Ford Explorer disk brake kit on it, so all I had to do was purchase new D44 backing plates and preload spacers from Teraflex to convert it. About $100 at the time.  As I recall the brake lines were all fine, just needed some minor re-bending.

 

Just put a new NOS Mopar Performance cover on it too. 

 

 

That is an awesome, awesome diff cover. Do you happen to have a link? I saw a similar one on Amazon but it doesn't look nearly that nice (or official!).

[HOrnbrod]

15 hours ago, crumbscomanche said:

That is an awesome, awesome diff cover. Do you happen to have a link? I saw a similar one on Amazon but it doesn't look nearly that nice (or official!).

 

Thank you. These covers were sold by Mopar Performance up until a few of years ago. They were made in the USA by American Rebel. Mopar Performance wanted American Rebel to lower their supply cost, American Rebel refused, so MP found a new supplier in China. Their new Jeep logo covers look like crap. American Rebel is selling off their remaining stock of covers with the Jeep logo HERE. This is the only place I know of where you can get them now, but maybe Amazon may be selling them too.  I found mine locally.

[Jeep Driver]

15 hours ago, HOrnbrod said:

 

Thank you. These covers were sold by Mopar Performance up until a few of years ago. They were made in the USA by American Rebel. Mopar Performance wanted American Rebel to lower their supply cost, American Rebel refused, so MP found a new supplier in China. Their new Jeep logo covers look like crap. American Rebel is selling off their remaining stock of covers with the Jeep logo HERE. This is the only place I know of where you can get them now, but maybe Amazon may be selling them too.  I found mine locally.

H--- S---! What a great find!

 

https://www.americanrebelmfg.com/product-page/ch8-25-xjp

 

 

Thanks!

[Skorpyo]

Man, those are SWEET, but I gotta say for $177 I think i'd just glue the Jeep logo to my 8.8. If you've got the coin, by all means though, very cool.

[kryptronic]

16 hours ago, crumbscomanche said:

Would it be okay if I shot you a couple of messages when we get it going?

 

No problem.  PM me with whatever you need.  Maybe you can do a tech writeup when you're done.  I've got all the part numbers for the stuff I used as well.