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opinions of these control arms...


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I made the uppers and lowers for my 89 comanche. I have been told (by naxja members so I don't trust them) that the uppers will shear in front of my reinforcements, and the lowers are not "sturdy enough".

 

I personally feel different about the lowers, but the uppers DO give me concern...

 

opinions?

facts would be good too...

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I'm thinking perhaps that the uppers are too short as well...

also thinking that these uppers will only be temporary and that I will be building my own out of a tubular system with a heim at one end (whatever joint is best for flex and performance. i know a heim isn't it, but you get the concept).

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How thick is the tube on the lowers? They don't look like they'll be an issue, IMHO. You might bend them on a rock, but WTH.

 

 

 

The uppers might be f'd... Did you put something inside them for extra bracing? You can actually lengthen an upper arm and not have it fail (NAXJA twats wouldn't know) but I'm not about to condone ever doing it.

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yea, the uppers were made out of two sets of uppers (that way there's only one stress point), then had a piece of angle iron about half their length (8" or so) centered in them and welded to the bottom/inside of them. I figure it should be OK but I'm not sure about the outer ends.

 

I know wade/89eliminator lengthened his and hasn't had much, if any problems

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The problem with the factory ones is they aren't exactly strong. And they're ment to flex to a certain extent. Actually, a bunch. Anyways, it won't fail where you welded it together, rather where the bracing ends. That is the stress point. Typically in time they will crack from there.

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Looking at the Upper Arms - I can't speak to their durability, but it looks like they are easy enough to make of stock arms so why not fab up two more so you have some trail spares. In the event of a failure you got a back up set to get you home.

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thanks guys.

 

I'm actually gonna do the same thing I did for the lowers I think, but not this month.

 

that will happen by the end of august...it won't be offroaded any except at the badlands, and I don't intend to be the flex king there...

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Hey Jeepcomj I made a set of uppers out of real thick tube and a plate and RE superflex joints for under $100 I had access to alot of tool and die equipment so it was easier for me but you can do it pretty easy if you use tube inserts (i tapped mine abotu 8"s which was unreal hard) but i can send you some links from where i got my stuff and also i think there are some pics in my project thread if not i can send some.

 

On a second note i would be concerned with using the uppers long term but for temp like a month or so they should be OK. The issue will be that you acctually weaken the stock metal and that may be the cause of failure. Hope this helps some.

 

Cole

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Hey Jeepcomj I made a set of uppers out of real thick tube and a plate and RE superflex joints for under $100 I had access to alot of tool and die equipment so it was easier for me but you can do it pretty easy if you use tube inserts (i tapped mine abotu 8"s which was unreal hard) but i can send you some links from where i got my stuff and also i think there are some pics in my project thread if not i can send some.

 

On a second note i would be concerned with using the uppers long term but for temp like a month or so they should be OK. The issue will be that you acctually weaken the stock metal and that may be the cause of failure. Hope this helps some.

 

Cole

 

I'm thinking of taking them out too and plating over them with what I have left of the other control arms for durability. that will remove some flex though...

 

Ideally, I need some upper control arms that offer more flex on the joints, as the stock bushings won't offer much.

 

so Cole, I'll take you up on your offer, if you could post info here, or pm that would help me alot.

 

p.s. I have access to TONS of equipment, so tapping a tube won't be a problem..I can use the lathe.

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OK

 

I got the re joints from Holeski on here its the small joints that fit in the stock location of the uppers on the frame end.

 

I ordered tubing online. I will find the link to what i got tonight when i get home and then i will post it. I used around 5/16ths thick plate for the axle end.

 

And i bought about a 1.5' section of all thread. I will get demmisions and such from my dad cause he ordered this.

 

I will post more tonight but i just wanted to give you an idea about what you have to look to get. I considered doing the tube adapters but i decided to go for it with the all thread and a tap. ANd i will tell you i had a lathe and all but the issue is you have to go so slow and be careful with it so that it sits right. Its not to hard once its setup and ready to go. I will go into detail tonight after i have the details laid out.

 

Cole

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using a lathe is not a difficult thing to do at all. you simply need too get the item centered in the lathe (via a measurement tool), and as you are threading in you need to spray it with a cooling compound to prevent from warping.

 

all I needed was the info on the joints, I have the steel already.

 

thanks!

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I don't see an issue with the lowers. That's how most tueb inserts are done, so it's not any different than a set of adjustables.

 

the uppers kind of scare me, simply because welding to the crappy sheetmetal is sketchy at best.

I'd be worried about it just tearing the sheetmetal away from the welds.

I don't think they'll instantly tear apart and set your truck on fire the instant it hits pavement though.

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Well the joints are RE super flex and they are rebuildable. Just weld them up and make sure you don't have them assymbled when you weld cause the race is a poly type material. Kinda self explanitory other then they are the RE small joints. I bought mine thru Holeski but alot of places carry them. The only thing you might need is some kind of threaded rod to weld to it if you go that rought but I put the udjustment on the other end of the arm. Simple and easy. Let me know if there is anything else you need to know.

 

Cole

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