Jump to content

Exhaust manifolds and C.A.R.B.


Recommended Posts

I've been digging into my recently purchased '91 4.0 HO, working to get the recurring exhaust smell troubleshot. It was obvious immediately that the tailpipe and muffler were toast, but after getting them replaced, I was still getting fumes. I finally determined for sure the exhaust manifold is cracked by sticking a mirror and a flashlight in there for a detailed inspection this morning (After two mechanics and a muffler shop said it was fine).

 

The truck has not been registered in California yet. It still has almost a year left on a Georgia plate registration. 

 

Here in CA we have C.A.R.B. which typically only allows the stock (more restricted) manifold design. I am all for clean air and smog sucks, but I don't understand how increasing the efficiency of a motor by improving the flow design on a header makes for significantly more exhaust particles. Maybe someone has an answer...

 

More importantly, does anyone have any experience with getting an inspection in CA? I'm sure the stock design with the improved materials/welds will work fine, however I always install the best performing and highest quality parts I can find within reason. Wondering if anyone has any suggestions on which header to use or if there is something I am missing... I've found about six or seven different designs so far on Amazon, Ebay, and the like, but only a few stock designs that are C.A.R.B certified... Also, will a redesigned, less restrictive header increase the chances of failing a smog? I'm guessing that it might fail a smog with the cracked header on it now.

 

Thanks everyone...  :cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are CARB approved headers, search Summit Racing find the one you like and look for a better price. Do not take the chance of using a non-CARB compliant header, never know how picky the smog tech will be, you don't want to pull the intake again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Agreed, your just not going to get a whole lot more out of it by going with a header. I would get it welded and slap it back on. Put the money that you would spend on your header into some 4 port injectors. You'll get allot more bag for your buck or get a less restrictive air intake. The injectors is where you'll really notice a difference. I've got a cracked one that is going to get welded and put on my 88. The flow on that design was pretty good out of the factory. Just my though on it.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey, thanks for the replies everyone...

 

Yesterday morning (before I read everyone's suggestions) I gave myself a late birthday present and purchased a Banks Revolver 51327 header. It's probably way more performance than this motor requires, as you have all noted, but what the heck, I already ordered it and it's CARB legal. I'll do the 4 port injectors too as soon as I can.

 

Hopefully the header install will go well and looking forward to driving around without getting gassed. 

 

Does everyone's down pipe have this crease towards the front, just after the header connection? I can't tell if this is stock, or if the previous owner landed on a rock or something.

 

oVqRPOj.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That dent is stock. You might look at Walker or other replacement down pipes. Then again, I do not know if the Banks requires a 'custom' down pipe. I just put on a Doug Thorley. You can weld on their adapter or have custom down pipe made up. I cobbled something to get mine running. I still plan or need to have a custom one made. I was quoted $200.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I should also add that the 'dent' can cost you power. The Walker might not have the dent. I think Omix or one of the others might not either. Might be stainless, but a lot more money. Let us know how the Banks Revolver works out. Almost went that route. The Thorley is ceramic coated, that was a deciding factor for me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep... Here's the Walker, it looks like it is free flowing and for around 45 bones. I would like (insert muffler shop here) to put a flex pipe in and I should probably replace the motor mounts too when I can. I get a nice little torque release "clunk" when I let off the gas at around 65 mph. I bet something is getting loosey goosey and I don't feel like replacing headers all that often. That four bolt connection at the tail end of the down pipe is a weld spot right? I have no experience welding. 

 

zNb1C0O.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Figured I would post an update regarding the Banks Revolver exhaust.

 

So far it has been good. I have noticed a slight increase in power, but I'm still using the stock down pipe that has the "kink" in it. That pipe is probably causing some back pressure, so I have it on my list to replace. It sounds pretty good too.

 

Installation was a bit tricky. I actually had both the exhaust and the intake manifold on at one point with bolts hand tightened, while my girlfriend was helping me, and I had to pull them both off because the header wasn't sitting flush. I made her a bit late for work. :doh: I would not attempt this installation without a second person to help.

 

One bolt is in a place where it is impossible to use a torque wrench and it is the first bolt in the process to tighten, but I got through it and all seems well. I also had the motor mounts replaced and noticed the motor is operating much "tighter" all around and I am hoping it helps the header last longer. Prior to replacing the motor mounts I was experiencing a thud when letting off the gas around 65 mph.

 

:cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...