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The long cranking is fairly normal with a Renix setup.  It's just figuring out what's going on.  If the CPS signal is weak, or other connections are not so good, it will exaggerate the problem.  Read through Cruiser's tips and do the ground/connector refreshing and the upgraded grounding strap will probably help.  You can move the crank sensor a little closer to the flywheel too, another one of his tips, but I've never bothered to do it.  Eliminating the stupid C101 connector might help a bit too.  Also, if you can get the cranking speed up it will help, so good battery cables, clean connections, and a good battery are worthwhile.

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Yeah, the long crank is just a characteristic of the Renix fuel injection system. You might be able to speed it up by cleaning up the connections as in Cruiser's Tips. My 89 had Cruiser's Tips done on it before I bought it and it starts up just a little slower than my HO. Of course, my HO sometimes lands on a lucky spot and starts up immediately but the Renix is pretty consistent in its slowness.

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What bench seat cover do you have? Can you send a picture?

The back of my bench seat is torn up and I've been looking for a cover similar to yours.

its the cheapest bench seat cover u can buy haha from auto zone.its like burlap fabric.it has no back to it just straps that go around the back and under the seat.quick fix to a faded with no stains bench upholstery.the bench sit is faded thats all.i wanted to brighten it up for cheap until i get bucket seats.

 

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Yeah, the long crank is just a characteristic of the Renix fuel injection system. You might be able to speed it up by cleaning up the connections as in Cruiser's Tips. My 89 had Cruiser's Tips done on it before I bought it and it starts up just a little slower than my HO. Of course, my HO sometimes lands on a lucky spot and starts up immediately but the Renix is pretty consistent in its slowness.

it starts pretty good.its just two or three cranks and it fired up.was just wondering i could get it to fire on very first turnover.thanks for the insight

 

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routine maintenance almost complete haha might be able to actually upgrade some things finally.its funny how getting a new to u vehicle u think everything is fine it runs great until u actually drive it for more than ten minutes and every little thing that is going to go wrong or is wrong with it shows.i just look at it as a great hobby that i enjoy doing.took it down to the lake off road at night through the narrowest holiest limb covered slightly down hill ground ive been on in quite some time and ol mud bud acted like it found its long lost love again.i literally just kept it in neutral all the way down and it went over and through two foot deep trenches foot around limbs and mud ponds like it was driving up the driveway to its home haha loved it!!! mud buds long lost love used her claws on it on their first date by ripping off the roof/door trim piece..found it in the bed the next morning n snapped it back on. little one inch bend in the trim piece now for a happy comanche owner

 

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That hose is to draw warm air from the exhaust manifold during cold starts or cold operation.  There's a little flapper door on the front of the airbox, and it's controlled by a little thermal switch in the top of the airbox with the vacuum lines running to it.  Personally I think it's a gimmick and remove it, and I live in a cold climate.

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I don't know about those manuals.  If it is the same as this manual: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3565545&cc=1181674&jsn=368then yes, it would be worth it.  I doubt it is, as I don't think they would legally be able to sell the FSM for that little money since FCA still owns the copywrite for it and is not willing to give it away.  For reference, the official reprint off Rockauto is $140 Canadian ($100~ US).  They offer a licensed CD version of the official for about $22~ US here: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3755688&cc=1181674&jsn=369

 

I'd probably spend the money on the CD version since I know it is real.  You can find originals of the paper ones on eBay or the classifieds here fairly often, if you prefer a paper manual.  I do feel the paper FSM is worth its weight in gold and would probably just buy the reprint off Rockauto if push came to shove, luckily the original owner of my first truck included them.

 

Or you can download one of the pirated, er, I mean distributed in a manner strictly not for profit, copies from Cruiser54's website.  1990 one is pretty much bang on for a later production 89.  http://cruiser54.com/?page_id=365

 

I doubt an original of that hose is available anywhere.  It is a generic product though.  The aviation term is scat hose, but I'm not sure what it's called in the rest of the world.  Somebody else will know probably...

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I don't know about those manuals. If it is the same as this manual: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3565545&cc=1181674&jsn=368then yes, it would be worth it. I doubt it is, as I don't think they would legally be able to sell the FSM for that little money since FCA still owns the copywrite for it and is not willing to give it away. For reference, the official reprint off Rockauto is $140 Canadian ($100~ US). They offer a licensed CD version of the official for about $22~ US here: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3755688&cc=1181674&jsn=369

 

I'd probably spend the money on the CD version since I know it is real. You can find originals of the paper ones on eBay or the classifieds here fairly often, if you prefer a paper manual. I do feel the paper FSM is worth its weight in gold and would probably just buy the reprint off Rockauto if push came to shove, luckily the original owner of my first truck included them.

 

Or you can download one of the pirated, er, I mean distributed in a manner strictly not for profit, copies from Cruiser54's website. 1990 one is pretty much bang on for a later production 89. http://cruiser54.com/?page_id=365

 

I doubt an original of that hose is available anywhere. It is a generic product though. The aviation term is scat hose, but I'm not sure what it's called in the rest of the world. Somebody else will know probably...

hey thank you for replying about that.i was thinking maybe it had something to do with y there is now oil/gas? in my air filter box after getting it back from this highly acclaimed mechanic haha my air filter is soaked on both ends with oil n gas blow back i suspect.i asked him to change the valve cover emission line n gasket and on my recent it says pcv replaced.i thought it was supposed to be ccv.the one i had on was 90 degree bent hose on valve cover this new one is just looped up and over to my ccv valve regulator thing haha not good with vehicle terminology as u can tell.do u know if this is whats causing the blow by.i checked all the other lines they seem good.whats the hose on the front for.I'm lost.i feel like i should be paying u haha.and the air intake big hose that goes to the throttle bottle which i had him clean( probably what made him tear up my heat return hose geez) doesnt feel like there is any air coming out of it when truck 8s on.does that hose get air when its connected to filter box?I'm so lost and getting to the point where I'm like emptying the bank account on ol mud bud lmdo

 

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so yeah i checked all the emission hoses and it seems they are all unclogged except the front one on the valve cover which i believe is the inlet hose as the back is the outlet.i am not to sure if disconnecting it at the v cover that there should be air blowing through hose from air box or what I'm still trying to figure that all out haha.not even sure where the pcv er ccv valve is located on ol mud bud haha i have tried asking about the ccv system but everytime i query it in the parts store it results in pcv coming up haha the oil/gas has stopped coming into air box so thinking it was just what happens when clean throttle body.when i take off oil cap on v cover smoke jist helps itself out of the hole with no trouble at all so that has got me worried there shouldn't be smoke being pushed out haha so on to the next chapter yall

 

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replacing the whole emissions system.hoses valves sensors everything this saturday wooo.not losing but a couple drops of oil into the air filter box as of now but before it was every where in there(no puddle just spray).when i open the oil cap smoke rolls out.this is the one time when u hope the mechanic messed up and put the wrong hose/valve on

 

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It's normal for these engines to have a little blowby, or to vent some oil onto the filter like that.  They're not exactly a high-zoot ultramodern engine.

 

Cruiser54 has a tech tip on his site about modifying the breather towers in the valve cover to cut down on it.  Another option is to install a catch can of some sort.

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That duct taped hose can still be found just about everywhere ... Exhaust Heat Stove. Pretty much a relic of the Carburetor days, back then it was needed to help with cold weather starts. Pretty much not needed with MPFI as atomization happens pretty much right at the chamber. I deleted mine as well, with the 4.0L it serves no real purpose ... It would have some effect for the 2.5L TBI engines though.

The CCV system pulls from the manifold.

The hose at the firewall end is a metered vacuum line creating a vacuum in the crankcase. It draws fresh filtered air through the other hose at the front of the valve cover which is connected to the airbox lid.

I never had smoke coming out of my old 88 but she really liked to push oil out under load. My engine bay was covered in years of it when I got her. I ended up just putting a filter on the intake (front) side and running it to a place where it collected less. This was after the usual shorten and drilling of the stock vent tubes. And, after changing to a 97+ valve cover which has a full length under tray ... Which did lessen it some.

Having had the old motors head off at one point I knew there was little I could change in my case ... Cylinder walls were polished smooth, she was just tired and blowing her guts out slowly.

 

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It's normal for these engines to have a little blowby, or to vent some oil onto the filter like that. They're not exactly a high-zoot ultramodern engine.

 

Cruiser54 has a tech tip on his site about modifying the breather towers in the valve cover to cut down on it. Another option is to install a catch can of some sort.

so I'm still trying to figure out if putting the pcv valve and hose that goes on the back valve cover did any thing bad like causing the smoke to come out of mine oil cap haha the pcv is way more open than the ccv connection so I'm thinking(hoping) that its letting way to much air to enter.

 

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That duct taped hose can still be found just about everywhere ... Exhaust Heat Stove. Pretty much a relic of the Carburetor days, back then it was needed to help with cold weather starts. Pretty much not needed with MPFI as atomization happens pretty much right at the chamber. I deleted mine as well, with the 4.0L it serves no real purpose ... It would have some effect for the 2.5L TBI engines though.

The CCV system pulls from the manifold.

The hose at the firewall end is a metered vacuum line creating a vacuum in the crankcase. It draws fresh filtered air through the other hose at the front of the valve cover which is connected to the airbox lid.

I never had smoke coming out of my old 88 but she really liked to push oil out under load. My engine bay was covered in years of it when I got her. I ended up just putting a filter on the intake (front) side and running it to a place where it collected less. This was after the usual shorten and drilling of the stock vent tubes. And, after changing to a 97+ valve cover which has a full length under tray ... Which did lessen it some.

Having had the old motors head off at one point I knew there was little I could change in my case ... Cylinder walls were polished smooth, she was just tired and blowing her guts out slowly.

 

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could u please let me know where i can find one.(parts store?)part number?name of hose?it kinda bugs me that it got ripped when mechanic put on the master cylinder n didnt even tell me haha my heat idiot light was coming on also after getting it back.never done that before now it does.prob not going to take it back to ol daniel at all tech in murray ky.not the first thing ive found disconnected after him working on it.eighty dollars n hour they get paid just to secretly pull fast ones.i know all bout mechanics and the great work they do lmdo oh well thats why alot of people do their own vehicle work so they know exactly whats been done.take to a mechanic and u don't know what the @#$%er done to it lol

 

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like the hoses are for ccv or pcv whichever right haha ccv has a way smaller opening goinh into valve cover but hey I'm no mechanic and parts store they seem to think only pcv system exist.anywhat...they connect to let me see on page 2300 of manual hmmmm yup not sure what part to buy and replace.I'm thinking maybe its stuck open whatever valve that is..maybe the crank case valve thingy part number something haha gotta call jeep tomorrow for sure

 

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There is no valve at all in the CCV system, it is a simple controlled vacuum leak. Work the same as a PCV does but in reverse.

 

Follow the vacuum hoses. The big thick J shaped hose is the CCV breather. The other two are vacuum lines ... One goes to the thermostatic valve (warm air from the duct taped hose goes through a flapper valve controlled by this).

The other goes to the EGR valve IIRC.

 

The hose you show (larger) on the intake manifold is the other end of the CCV orifice line ... There is no valve there, just a rubber elbow. The other end is a plastic elbow in the valve cover that has a small 2.6-2.8mm hole in it (depending on year). It usually gets all clogged up with soot. Good idea to carefully remove it and clean it out.

 

Be VERY careful around the MAP sensor line, they are usually the most brittle vacuum hose on the system, and generally fail when failing about on some other part of the motor (the MAP line is the easy one, goes from MAP sensor directly to the throttle body). Or, they just melt for the pure joy of it. I usually scavenge the hose ends off that particular line and bend up some 3/16" brake line to replace it (no more broken leaky line - ever).

 

As for the duct taped hose, it's usually located in the exhaust section ... Just a generic hose available in a couple sizes. It's now made out of aluminum foil and simple stretches to fit. Like a dryer vent hose. Sometimes called a pre-heater hose, exhaust heater hose, warm air ducting/hose .... Just generic stuff. Nothing fancy or specific really, our local part stores usually have it in the exhaust section come in a small box, and can be had in a couple widths and maximum lengths (like I mentioned it's a stretch as needed fit). If your local parts boy can't figure it out ask him to look for a warm air duct for an early 80's anything.

 

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Update of sorts.so after cleaning the throttle body i now can accelerate up steep hills in fifth gear which is what i was aiming for..wooo!haha.got new shock absorbers on.just cheap ones.bout to put in new fuel pump.hopefully that helps with the hard 3 crank start.I'm also switching to the 2.50 gallon unleaded non ethanol gas cause i guess jeeps back then ran on non ethanol additive.ten percent ethonal is 1.90 gallon haha.still trying to figure out why it pulls to the right.i havnt put much effort into that.all in all it runs good.

 

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