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Hey guys, still need help figuring this one out.A few weeks ago, I posted about my truck putting me down when I took a 200 mile trip in it ,the only good thing about it , it put me down at my mom's house so it's in a safe place. First of all it's not firing,  I have put new CPS, checked it today it's putting out .05 volts when you crank over engine.  Also put on new ICM still won't start.  new coil still want start.  It's getting plenty of fuel, has new pump and new gas tank and is full of gas also new fuel filter. It has new distributor cap, rotor button and new plugs and plug wires.  When problem occurred it ran great going over there,was parked for the night ,started the next day and it ran like crap,then became worse missing so bad it barely made it to her driveway.  It quit there and hasn't started since. Any ideas ,I really need my truck and to get it back home.  thanks.

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Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer.

 

.5V on the AC scale............

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If I recall you have the 2.5, correct?

 

You are the second one in the last month that has reported the exact same symptoms. 

 

High miles?

 

 

I'm always suspicious when someone says 'it jumped time', but in your case.......maybe. 

Or your timing chain has broken.

 

Look up "distributor indexing". Cruiser has a tutorial, surely.

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Yes I have the 2.5 ltr. it has 144,000 MI on it,no noises ran great ,not much power but they never had much power. I don't believe the timing chain broke while it was sitting there overnight,it just did all this from running great when I shut it off to this when I started it up the next time.

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OK.

 

 

 

I'll just mention........

 

The other guy rejected my suggestion as well. But, he did do a compression test, 0 compression, which is also a symptom of a broken chain. 

He did a compression test that must have taken him an hour, but he refused to check timing, that I could do in 5 minutes. 

 

 

Oh well. He still refused to check timing even after the compression test. 

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Index your distributor and see where you are. 

 

How is indexing the distributor going to increase the output of the CPS by a factor of ten? And, if it ran fine one day but wouldn't start the next day -- how would the distributor have gotten out of index?

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Index your distributor and see where you are. 

 

How is indexing the distributor going to increase the output of the CPS by a factor of ten? And, if it ran fine one day but wouldn't start the next day -- how would the distributor have gotten out of index?

 

Alright, since you asked-

 

 

IIRC, in the other thread he had fuel and SPARK. 

 

Secondly, you are assuming that the .05 reading is correct, I am not. 

 

Thirdly, Second CPS...........I'd be looking around at other things. 

That said, he likely bought a POS Autozone CPS, I have made comments about OEM,  Mopar, Renix..........most of you prefer the $16 store brand junk. 

So, it's possible the he possesses two dead CPSs. 

 

Lastly, it will literally take two to thee minutes to turn the crank to TDC and pull the dist cap to see if you are anywhere near #1.

 

 

 

So, why not?

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Double Six, 

 

Once you have ruled out any kind of mechanical failure- also inspect the inside of the dist cap and rotor. 

 

There are four black wires coming off the dipstick bracket, those are your sensor ground wires, you need to inspect those, they run all the way to the C101. There are also splices in the grounds from the factory inside the loom, check those. Clean your grounds.

 

Inspect the plug to the CPS, inspect the wire to the CPS. 

 

If you have another dead CPS, replace it, again. Here is a recommendation- http://www.morris4x4center.com/crankshaft-position-sensor-33004761.html.....I just bought two of these myself elsewhere, but they are out of stock now. 

 

The only other thing I can suggest is the coil. My coil went out on the road, there is no warning, they just die. I doubt this is your problem, but you cannot rule it out. 

 

 

 

CPS, wiring condition, or coil, it's going to be one of the three if it's not mechanical. That would be my approach if i were in your position. 

 

 

Hope that helps and you get back home. 

 

 

 

Edit, I'm assuming your ignition circuit is hot, I suppose it's possible that the ignition switch has failed  but still kick in the starter.......IDK but that's easy enough to check. 

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Index your distributor and see where you are. 

 

How is indexing the distributor going to increase the output of the CPS by a factor of ten? And, if it ran fine one day but wouldn't start the next day -- how would the distributor have gotten out of index?

 

Alright, since you asked-

 

 

IIRC, in the other thread he had fuel and SPARK. 

 

Secondly, you are assuming that the .05 reading is correct, I am not. 

 

Thirdly, Second CPS...........I'd be looking around at other things. 

That said, he likely bought a POS Autozone CPS, I have made comments about OEM,  Mopar, Renix..........most of you prefer the $16 store brand junk. 

So, it's possible the he possesses two dead CPSs. 

 

Lastly, it will literally take two to thee minutes to turn the crank to TDC and pull the dist cap to see if you are anywhere near #1.

 

 

 

So, why not?

 

 

Pulling the cap to verify distributor pointing at #1 is not the same thing as indexing the distributor, which requires cutting a window in the side of a spare distributor cap and adjusting the clearance between the rotor tip and the contact in the distributor. Indexing is NOT a five minute job, and is very rarely indicated. Sure, by all means verify that the distributor hasn't jumped -- but if he says he tested the CPS and read .05 volts, why would you assume that he's wrong?

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